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How did Yuri Gutsatz become a perfumer

November 5th, 2009 | Le Jardin Retrouvé, Yuri Gutsatz 

The world holds more than we know
I wrote earlier today that the world holds more than we know, that we need to learn to see differently in order to become aware of what is already here, if we but knew.

Learning more about Yuri Gutsatz’ life and of his perfume creations fall well into that category. I’m glad that his son, Denis Gutsatz, is keeping his memory alive, even as he works with the company his father founded.

Gutsatz translated life into perfume
How this came about was rather serendipitous. He didn’t set out to be a perfumer, but his gifts sure lay in that direction! And he crossed paths with those who recognized it.

To all appearances there was nothing that predicted I would become a perfumer or even become a part of the fragrance industry, which was, at my debut, but a luxury craft for some “happy few”.

I asked Dennis to tell me more about the company
He said that

it is still alive and in good working condition since the first day!

I asked him to tell more about his philosophy for the perfumes and the company:

Which direction will it take or go, I do not know, [but] I think, with today’s crisis, there should be a real rebirth of good and well done perfumes for an affordable price …

That is definitely good news for those of us who adore his fragrances!

I asked if it were his only work
He went on to tell me that his first job is in audio. (www.pssaudio.com) (Yuri is his first name too.) But it is obvious that he has a love for his father’s company and creations.

So how did Yuri Gutsatz find himself working in the perfume industry?

It turned out that he learned after the war that his own father, David Gutsatz, was a qualified chemist. He had been unable to follow when they emigrated to Berlin from Russia. Yuri later learned that he had filed patents for amyl-cynamic aldyhyde in 1935.

Working for Mury
Yuri Gutsatz was able to leave Berlin in 1933 for Paris because through friends and relations in Paris, he became known to the owner of Parfums Mury. He obtained the necessary visa and a work permit. It turned out he wasn’t really needed at Mury – he could sell or do accounting or

” … perhaps the laboratory. I think the laboratory would be the most appropriate”. Thus fate once again led me by the hand. I learned everything at Mury, even how to stick labels.

He made himself useful!

The War
Then war got in the way. He enlisted in March 1940 and went into the Foreign Legion, headquartered in Algeria in Sidi Bel Abbes.

Work immediately after the war
After the armistice, he wrote to Grasse, then received a job offer from Marseille to work with a company that would

manufacture and distribute a Jean Marie Farina cologne in the “Free Zone”, taking advantage of the fact that major brands in Paris could not deliver to the perfumeries in the south of France.

And his laboratory?

He built a small laboratory, which led to meeting representatives of the perfume houses in Grasse, and consequently he was invited to attend a training course at Chiris. And that led to working in what he called a real laboratory under the direction of Edward Hache.

Being in the right place at the right time
Imagine standing on the Etoile metro platform in 1945 and being recognized by Jean Carles who introduced him to Louis Amic of Roure Bertrand Fils and Justin Dupont (RBF & JD). There he stayed for 31 years.

The glory years of French perfume
These were the glory years of French perfume and of this firm in particular.

From the Roure laboratories came virtually every perfume of Carven, Balmain, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath Robert Piguet, Jean d’Albret, Nina Ricci, Emilio Pucci, Robert Ricci, among others.

Imagine!

What else?
You’ve heard me tell the story of his creation of Rose Opéra as a guest blogger at ColognePerfumeFragrance.

Additionally he spent 6 years in India. Louis Amic joined with an Indian group to manufacture locally a certain number of synthetic products and fragrances for the local market – not because he was enamored with the idea, but to prevent Givaudan from doing so.

Back in Paris
Then, when back in Paris, he was in charge of the German and English markets – working with Mary Quant, Emilio Pucci and Estée Lauder – when the first fragrance from Emmanuel Ungaro was created.

Why did he start his own company?
When Roure moved to Argenteuil in 1976, he left. It is at that point, urged somewhat by his family, that he created Le Jardin Retrouvé.

Perhaps I did not want to end my career at Argenteuil, the town where I had started out 40 years earlier.

But one cannot stop, one cannot abandon, the métier of a lifetime.

What makes Le Jardin Retrouvé’s fragrances different?

[He] went back to the artisanal sources of perfumery with simple formulas, perfumer’s perfume, not marketing perfume.

Can you tell this difference?
Yes, to my nose, you can. His fragrances are true, rich and warm, long lasting. They are balanced perfectly. I’m very glad to know they are still on the scene, and perhaps becoming better known to the modern perfumista.

Have you worn any of his fragrances?
Do you have a favorite?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com
You can read Gutsatz’ story in his own words, in French, translated into English.

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Le Jardin Retrouvé, Yuri Gutsatz



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