Foundation too dark or too light?

by Karin on May 11, 2010 · 2 comments

in Chanel, Cover Girl, Femme d'age, Foundation, Guerlain, Techniques

Foundation that is too light
I remember when I first learned about professional and theater makeup. I was told: to age a person in theater, choose a foundation that is too light, and draw in lines for wrinkles. The older they are supposed to be, the lighter the makeup.

Well, I wonder if that is because the older a person is, the less they go out in the sun?

Of course, now it doesn't necessarily hold true, because I have been more or less sun-free for a very long time. I wear sunblock, and whatever sun I get is from moving from the car across a parking lot. I don't sunbathe. I suppose if I lived in a colder, less sunny clime, I'd be out looking for rays of sun whenever and wherever I could, but here, where the sun shines just about daily -- and it's strong -- I avoid the sun.

Foundations that are too dark
I'm finding that most foundations are too dark for me as I no longer get a tan in summer (which gradually fades in winter) (I used to have two foundation colors, one for winter; one for summer) -- and most are definitely too yellow. For some reason, the powers that be decided, almost across the board, that all foundations should be in the yellow range. Not! That yellow doesn't work for me. I need a true neutral.

The Chanel foundation I loved has been discontinued. One of the newer Chanel foundations is close to it, but not the same, still a bit darker. But they are not as yellow as they were a year or so ago. They have reformulated colors, as they said they were going to do.

And most foundations will change color on me, though supposedly Guerlain has a technology where that doesn't happen. But Guerlain colors are still too dark. I should have exchanged mine right away -- or not bought it. I knew better!

I gave away some of my deeper shades to a friend who gets tan. But I kept my faves.

There is a fine line between looking tan in a deeper foundation color than one's skin, and looking slightly dirty. I just prefer my own skin tone now.

This is what I did
I got the idea to use a foundation that is too light for me to lighten the darker shades. It would be just as easy to use a foundation that is too dark, to deepen a shade that is too light.

I would only do this if the foundation I already own is expensive; has a particularly pretty look to it; or cannot be exchanged or returned for whatever reason.

Technique
First, I looked to see if I could buy a white highlighting liquid. I used to have some, but who knows where it is! I couldn't find any, so I thought about using a lighter shade of foundation to accomplish the same thing.

I decided to buy Cover Girl Simply Ageless with Olay in color 205 (the lightest.) I wear color 210, which is perfect for me. (I just don't want to waste my expensive foundations. But I won't replace them when they are gone, either.) I apply a bit of this to my face (and it is definitely too light) then I apply some of the foundation that is too dark and blend it on my face to the right color.

Be careful not to apply too much because you are applying 2 X the product (so 1/2 as much each product or 1/4 to 3/4, whatever ratio to get the right shade.)

The Cover Girl is a cream, so it takes very little. Most of my other foundations are liquid.

I could mix on the back of my hand. then apply, but I figured I'd lose some product that way.

Be sure to stay in the color range -- neutral, pink, apricot, or yellow. You might possibly be able to cross the colors if you are trying to color correct, but that could also be done with a colored primer.

Anyway, I'm quite happy that I selvaged some colors I didn't think I would be able to wear again. So far I have tried this with both my Chanel sample and my Guerlain foundation. (First I tried with color 210, but it wasn't light enough to bring them down.)

Have you ever tried this?
Let me know if you do.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com


Blog Traffic Exchange Related Posts Blog Traffic Exchange Related Websites
  • livingroom6 Inexpensive Ideas for Living Rooms Many ideas for living rooms involve changing the walls from paint to a textured look to wallpaper, or remodeling a fireplace. Most of the remodeling...
  • depressionaglassDepression Glass Antiques -> Decorative Arts -> Glass The history of Depression Glass is actually quite fascinating and it is a true testimony to its appeal that...
  • Asian EyesAsian Makeup Suggestions Asian Make Up Tips Many Asian-Americans and other Asian women living in Western countries have a terrible time finding cosmetics that will compliment their unique...
Online Stores

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Jessica December 20, 2011 at 12:25 am

After years of being a makeup artist. The rule stands true. There are no rules to makeup, only rules of thumb. Nothing called “too anything”.I disagree with telling anyone how to wear their foundation/blush/powder/eyeliner/eyeshadow. Makeup is subjective. Everyone has their own makeup style. Many light people tend to go light/lighter or mix it with a luminzer to make themselves brighter/radiant/porcelin like. A great example of this would be dita von teese, who even stays out the sun to maintain her light skintone and wears light foundation. Others prefer to be dark/darker and darken in the sun or use bronzer all over their skintone. Different people have different preferences. If I spelled “Horse” “Howrse” than there is no “ifs” “and” or “buts” because grammar isnt subjective. What is wrong is wrong!
However. Makeup is subjective. I hate nude lips. Does that mean its right to say “dont wear nude lips” ? No.
I might not like it but someone else might. There is no rule to makeup. Thats the beauty of being a makeup artist. There are soo many different styles.who is anyone to tell someone theyre wearing a too light or too dark foundation, because there is no such thing. Nicole and Sam from pixiwoo(huge makeupartists in Britain) sometimes wear paler or darker foundation and it looks gorgeous! as long as people blend it to the neck its fine….some people prefer to look bright and radiant.
haters need to get off of it that what they say hold a grain of weight. I hate bronzer. But maybe there is someone who loves that deep bronzed look. I cant go to them and say “dont go soo deep in the bronzer” and say its “constructive”. No matter how nice it is.
Just a general reminder, not aimed towards anyone..but those who feel they need to force their opinions on others.
thank you for your time and allowing those to post Karin! I read your blogs alot!

Karin December 20, 2011 at 4:24 pm

Jessica, thanks for your comments. I pretty much agree with you. And I also think a makeup artist can make just about any color work for anyone, and of course, if we are talking movies or theater work, makeup is used to establish a certain look and get into character.

I agree with you about blending into the neck, that helps. Or using a damp sponge to apply the makeup (when dark) as it ‘thins’ it down to a softer shade.

I have a friend who wears bronzer alone, no foundation, and it looks good on her. I have to be very careful of tones of bronzers because of my skin tone. And being fair, everything is exacerbated, whereas when I used to tan, being darker camouflaged.

Unfortunately for me, the newer color that was workable for me in Chanel has been discontinued. Going online there were a number of people who said that worked for them, so it will be interesting to see what they substitute (or if Chanel brings out a similar color again.)

The last few days I’ve been experimenting with one shade on one side, another on the other side, to see which is best for me, at least in my eyes.

Oh, and I think the younger someone is, the more they can get away with. I know I have to be more careful now — so sad~

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: