Savvy Thinker » Woods http://savvythinker.com thinking about life, playing with makeup Sat, 11 Feb 2012 22:10:41 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comparing incense and patchouli and woods http://savvythinker.com/comparing-incense-and-patchouli-and-woods/ http://savvythinker.com/comparing-incense-and-patchouli-and-woods/#comments Sat, 28 Jan 2012 14:58:08 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2007/04/25/comparing-incense-and-patchouli-and-woods/

I promised I'd get to my incense/patchouli fragrances and that's what I've been doing the past few days.

I always recommend trying a fragrance more than once before buying it. And I also recommend comparing it to things that remind you of it that you are either considering buying or already own. That way you know if it is FBW or more or less a duplication, or if in comparison, you either really like it or you really don't. I learned this through trial and error. Sometimes the right combination of scents if you are doing a mini sniffa makes a fragrance smell better than it really does. Ditto for the weather or hormones or whatever. I find if I can't trust a fragrance to smell pretty much the same always, it makes it iffy for me to use it. Because while mostly I might like it, there are days when it can be a scrubber, so it's not one I'd reach for as often as ones that are always beloved.

I compared Le Baiser Du Dragon By Cartier with L’air du désert marocain by Tauer with NEW BLACK ORCHID by TOM FORD .

Notes for Le Baiser Du Dragon, introduced in 2004, a woody oriental:
Amaretto, Neroli Blossom, Gardenia, Cedarwood, Iris, Bulgarian Rose, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Benzoin

Notes for L’air du désert marocain: The elegant head note is based on typical spicy scents of the Maghreb; coriander and cumin, joined with petitgrain. The warm heart note surprises with the fragrance of rock rose and a hint of jasmine. The body note is full of warm woods such as cedar wood, vetiver brilliantly joined with a fine amber background. Tauer Perfumes

Notes for Black Orchid: top notes of Black Truffle, Ylang, fresh Bergamot, Black Currant.
middle notes of dark florals and rich fruit accords, deepened with Lotus Wood.
base notes of Patchouli, Incense and Vetiver, Vanilla Tears, Balsam and Sandalwood.

The first day I compared BdD with DM. I bought BdD when I was on an Alaskan cruise. I probably tried it 25 times before buying it, because it was so different for me. I also wanted to know that those around me liked it. Re-spritzing does not make it too heavy. At the same time I wondered if it was the combination of the sea air and the cold that made it so delightful.

I found that sometimes I can smell it, and other times, I can't smell it as well, but because it is so heady until it dries down a bit, I always go easy on it. Plus, it has good sillage, so others can still smell it. I wear it on days when I want a kick as& fragrance. More recently, it didn't hit me really well, so I set it aside until this trial between fragrances. The two blended together in a nice way in wafting, but if I wanted to smell either separately, I just smelled one arm or the other. I like to do that anyway. It's more interesting. DM is much sweeter, but also drier, as you'd expect with a fragrance that has the word 'desert' in its name.

My husband's first comment to me that day: you smell good! (And I did.) I will likely do some layering with these two, as I prefer DM, but not to waste the BdD.

Yesterday I compared DM to Black Orchid. I've wanted to like Black Orchid. It has many notes that I like in other fragrances. But every time I had tried it, it went odd on me. (Tom Ford, ever crude, has said he put the scent of a man's crotch in it, and perhaps he did. That funky note is either nearly absent or totally present depending on one's chemistry.) Nordstrom's is newly carrying it, and they had samples, which NM did not have when they first debuted it. This is one that I would not buy without making sure, sure, sure. I thought, good! now I can really try it.

I have to say the first time I really liked it was when comparing it to DM. In comparison, Black Orchid (BO to some, pun intended) smells sweeter than it does if I'm not comparing it. I quite liked it. But when I asked my dh which he preferred, he picked DM. So, there you have it. The Black Orchid bottle is elegant. I think I'll get it anyway and wear it with DM.

I have BdD and Black Orchid on this morning. I asked a friend which she preferred. On first sniff, she liked them both. On second sniff she liked BdD better. On third sniff, now that's it's dried down, she said Black Orchid smells better than it did, but she still prefers BdD.

Looks like I'll have to get a bottle of DM. My decant is not going to be enough. It will be a nice treat for me. I do love the fragrance.

The SAs at Nordstrom's were really talking about Black Orchid. I agree, in many ways it is a lovely fragrance, especially if it is wearable for you. It would smell great on a man, likely all the time. On me, I'd have to be careful, but that bottle is calling to me.

Do you wear any of these? Which is your favorite? Is one calling to you, but you haven't decided?

Karin

Originally posted 2007-04-25 09:29:34.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/comparing-incense-and-patchouli-and-woods/feed/ 0 Review: Comparing India Hicks Island Night with Gucci Flora http://savvythinker.com/review-comparing-india-hicks-island-night-with-gucci-flora/ http://savvythinker.com/review-comparing-india-hicks-island-night-with-gucci-flora/#comments Sun, 20 Nov 2011 02:34:43 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/?p=1898

Gucci Flora edp and Island Night edt are siblings; they aren't twins. They begin differently and end differently, but at the midpoint they are very much the same on me.

And when I first spritz Island Night, I wonder what made me buy it at the store. It's a whopper. And, in general, I have to be very, very careful with orange blossom in fragrances. It usually goes sharp on me.

The Road Not Taken
TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Crabree and Evelyn sells Island Night. It comes in a beautiful midnight blue flask, with some heft to it. It is a pleasure to hold. It also comes in an evening compact with enhancer, body wash and lotion, a scented candle, and a fragrance diffuser for the home.

Notes: purple and white orchids, night blooming jasmine, orange blossom nectar, green island palms, woods, musk

I chose the edt over the compact as there was more scent to it. After spraying the edt, I could hardly smell the compact. The compact might be an easier way to wear it. I haven't tried either the candle or the diffuser, though the diffuser especially looks lovely.

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

Why the two fragrances would be reminiscent of each other, at least at mid-point is a mystery to me:

Gucci Flora notes: citrus, peony, rose, osmanthus, sandalwood and patchouli

Perhaps it is the orange blossom-citrus thing going on.

Island Night starts off with a bang. It is heady and heavy. You are in a garden with a lover, heavy-eyed, under a deep sky with stars low enough to touch.

Gucci Flora begins at a similar place, only it is twilight. The winds have blown through the garden for a bit, and your lover has not yet arrived. It is easier to wear from the get-go.

At the mid-point, there is not a lot of difference. Gucci Flora might be a tad sweeter.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference. Robert Frost 1920

And then, at the end, both fragrances circle back around again. Island Night has the same nuance at the end, as at the beginning but softened, not nearly as strong. Funny that it is gone in the middle. Gucci Flora stays the same through the end. Truly lovely.

And what about several hours later? I can still smell Gucci Flora, though I have to bring my arm up. I could still smell it faintly before I got out of bed from the night before. Whereas, Island Night is gone. No trace. But it sure packs a wallop in the beginning.

Which road will you take?

Karin


Originally posted 2009-03-15 16:26:56.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/review-comparing-india-hicks-island-night-with-gucci-flora/feed/ 0 A sweet patchouli kind of day http://savvythinker.com/a-sweet-patchouli-kind-of-day/ http://savvythinker.com/a-sweet-patchouli-kind-of-day/#comments Fri, 16 Sep 2011 03:32:37 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2007/05/16/a-sweet-patchouli-kind-of-day/

Sometimes only patchouli will do, but not the strong, sour kind of headshop patchouli left over from the 60's. I'm talkin' about sweet patchouli.

I've already been sidetracked a couple of times today trying to write up my impressions, so this might be the short version just to get it on the table, and then I may expand it.

For the past two days I've been trying out Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 on one arm and Prada on the other. The '1834' of the name supposedly refers to the year when patchouli leaves were first wrapped to ward off moths in bales of silk shipped to Europe.

At any rate, I think I smell quite good!

Borneo 1834 has notes of “florals”, galbanum, Indonesian patchouli, cacao, camphor, cardamom, cistus, and labdanum.

Prada: Italian Bergamot Oil, Orange Oil, Bitter Orange Oil, Mandarin Flower, Mimosa India, Rose Absolute ABS, Schinus Molle ABS LMR, Peru Balsam, Patchouli Oil LMR, Raspberry Flower, Labdanum Resinoide LMR, Tonka Bean , Musk, Sandalwood Oil. Amber fragrance with 4 dimensions.

A while back I tried Borneo on one arm and Yves Rocher's Cocoon on the other. I have to be careful with Cocoon as it is so strong on me. Or, perhaps it is that I want to change during the day, and it is still very present. I get tired of its strength. YR's Cocoon has more chocolate and even a vanilla presence, whereas Borneo is much stronger with patchouli. Of course Borneo is a lot more money! Of the two, Cocoon is stronger on me and more one-dimensional. Borneo (which I am not spraying, as I only have a sample) is quite gentle. Of the two, I liked Borneo better. I would wear Cocoon if I diluted it with unscented lotion, for example. Borneo I would wear just by itself.

Cocoon notes: vanilla, chocolate, sandalwood, and patchouli. Spicy, woody, oriental notes.

The first year Prada came out, I wore it a lot. It had everything going for it. It was strong, but not too strong. It went through various stages, and it was just different. Then I stopped wearing it, as I explored other fragrances and families of fragrance.

As I wore Borneo, it reminded me of Prada. That's why I decided to test them out against each other. If I were to say, Borneo transports me to another time and place, and it isn't the 60s. Prada is a modern rendition, and I stay in this time and place.

At various times today, I asked several people which of my two fragrances they liked the best. They all picked Prada. By comparison, one said Borneo smelled sour. I don't think they would have thought that, if I had been wearing only Borneo. Surprisingly, Prada did not smell heavy to me today, perhaps since I've been away from it so long, and also because I did not spray it, since I wasn't spraying Borneo.

To me, they are both sweet. And I liked them both. I want to buy Borneo. Unfortunately for us Americans, it is in Serge Lutens non-export line, so available only in Les Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, where it retails for 100 Euros for 75ml. They will not ship it to the US, but they will ship it to other places in Europe, where if you have a friend, they will ship it to you. I was fortunate that a perfume friend sent me part of her sample, thinking she didn't like it. But when she divided it up to send, she realized she liked it more than she thought so she began to wear it again.

Have I said I want to go back to Paris?

Do you wear any of these? Which is your favorite? Do you wear them all, just depending on the day or your mood or the weather?

You know, when you want patchouli, then only patchouli will do. And it is nice that it is not going back to the 60s, but forward to the 2010's.

Karin

I wrote about Borneo and Cocoon earlier, if you go here.

Originally posted 2007-05-16 21:21:07.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/a-sweet-patchouli-kind-of-day/feed/ 0 A little perfume tale http://savvythinker.com/a-little-perfume-tale/ http://savvythinker.com/a-little-perfume-tale/#comments Mon, 15 Aug 2011 17:15:37 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/?p=2750

This is almost a review.

Last week I was out and about. I had put on one squirt of edp about 5 hours earlier.

I couldn't smell it at all.

The woman I had gone to see raved about my perfume, that she just loved it. She wanted to buy it for herself. I asked her if it was too strong?? because usually no one but me can smell my fragrances. I'm very careful because both a friend and a family member are sensitive.

No, it was perfect, she said.

After that, I went to the mall because I was a short distance away. While there, I made a circuit of the perfumes, as usual, and the SA smelled wonderful! When she walked in front of me, the most delicious fragrance wafted toward me. It was lovely, not too strong. I liked it!

I asked her what perfume she was wearing. She said they were no longer carrying it. She had just moved the stock to the back room. (Turns out, all the local stores are not going to carry it. It is discounted at Perfumania, which just opened in our mall.)

She was wearing the same thing I was wearing! No wonder my friend had thought I'd smelled good, if I smelled as good as she did! I thought that was so funny!

We were wearing...YSL Elle.

This is a very good price for it.

· Top Notes: Cedrat, peony, lychee.
· Middle Notes: Pink berries, freesia, jasmine.
· Bottom Notes: Patchouli, vetiver, ambrette.

Here's a great ad for it:

Here's one a little more racy for Elle Shocking, the edt:

My take The bottle is beautiful.
Some days I really like this on me; other days, I'm not sure. It might be the weather. Right now it is moderately hot here.

This is not a sweet rose, nor is it quite a dirty rose either. It is an interesting rose, kept from being too sweet by the patchouli. And the funny thing is, laughing at myself here, there isn't any rose in it!

Maybe it's the color of the juice. Or maybe it's that it's a grownup fragrance, not one that follows the sweet perfume trends.

This compliment makes me want to search out the flankers: Elle Summer and Elle Intense, if they can even be found. Those both have raspberry in them.

Found them:

The notes include ginger, tangerine, pink pepper, peony, freesia, raspberry, musk, patchouli and vetiver.

~~~~

The fragrance notes include raspberry, litschi, jasmine, iris, benzoin, patchouli and amber.

~~~~
What do you think?
Have you tried this one? Do you wear it? Have you worn or smelled the flankers? Can you enable me, or not?

Karin

Originally posted 2009-04-04 13:46:29.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/a-little-perfume-tale/feed/ 1 Scent impressions on a hot day Serge Lutens Part 2 http://savvythinker.com/scent-impressions-on-a-hot-day-serge-lutens/ http://savvythinker.com/scent-impressions-on-a-hot-day-serge-lutens/#comments Mon, 15 Aug 2011 05:02:47 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2008/06/28/scent-impressions-on-a-hot-day-serge-lutens/

Moving on to Serge Lutens from L'artisan:

Ahhhh... Oh my. This is the first time I've seen so many Lutens fragrances in one place since I was in Paris. On that trip I was overwhelmed by the choices, didn't really know the offerings, and felt confused enough not to make a choice. Then a generous POL'er (you know who you are) sent me from Europe a wonderful selection of sample vials so that I could really try them at my leisure. I went on to order several decants and a couple of partial bottles.

This week I sampled Rousse, Datura Noir, and Miel de Bois.

Miel de Bois is practically straight honey. I prefer L'Occitane's Honey and Lemon which has less honey predominating:

Miel de Bois:
Notes of honey and woods with top notes of ebony, gaiac and oak wood, middle notes of honey and bottom notes of beeswax, iris and hawthorn.

Honey and Lemon:
lemon and citrus fruit, golden honey, vanilla and caramel scents.

I liked this Datura Noir quite a bit, but I have Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Secrete Datura* and while not the same, it gave me pause to think of getting this one. I look forward to putting it on skin again, and comparing it to SD.

Datura Noir

Notes of myrrh, bitter almond, tonka bean, and musk, heliotrope, mandarin, lemon flower, and tuberose, vanilla, coconut oil, and apricot.

My favorite of what I tried was Rousse . I fell in love with this one, but I would want to sample it comparing it to Fou d'Absinthe on my next trip, unless I simply decide to bite the bullet and get both. Rousse was created by Chris Sheldrake. Cinnamon is one of my favorite spices, so to have it in a fragrance that is more than gourmand, is a delight.

I expected it to be like Chypre Rouge, which I find masculine, but it is not. Rousse is certainly wearable by a man; it is equally wearable for me.

Rousse
notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.

Now, I would be completely happy concerning fragrance if I had one or both of the ones I loved -- but then would I be on the hunt for more? Yes, probably, but I've resigned myself to the knowledge that there are so many new offerings that it is impossible to test all of them. I must be satisfied with the few.

There were a couple Lutens I didn't care for, but I didn't write their names on the cards, and I am having trouble recognizing the names as I look for them, so I will have to have an addendum when I sample them again.

Karin

Secrete Datura's notes:

Notes: Datura, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Chocolate

Top: intermingles the lily, heliotrope and lemon.
Mid: jasmin, honeysickle, wallflower and orange blossom,
base: iris, vanilla, chocolate, and sandalwood.

Originally posted 2008-06-28 18:46:31.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/scent-impressions-on-a-hot-day-serge-lutens/feed/ 3 Bond No 9 Andy Warhol Union Square http://savvythinker.com/bond-no-9-andy-warhol-union-square/ http://savvythinker.com/bond-no-9-andy-warhol-union-square/#comments Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:37:29 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2008/03/27/bond-no-9-andy-warhol-union-square/

Union Square is a lovely fragrance. Billed as a seductive green floral and The Sweet (and Cool) Smell of Pop Art it sneaks up on you as you wear it.

I am sampling it from a vial, so I am not spritzing it.

I think the idea of sweet and cool in fragrance is today's trend. I don't want to call it a modern trend, because other fragrances which I would consider modern, don't always have this dichotomy of sweet with cool. It's as though sweet is too sweet and cool is too cool, but combining the two together, so long as they don't cancel each other out or end up a mishmash, gives a balance that those who desire neither alone (or at least on particular days) find intriguing.

When I first wear it, it reminds me of Miss Dior Cherie which also has a sweet and cool thing going on. Or M by Mariah Carey.

The notes are:

Lily of the valley (in a deliciously impudent frame of mind, they write), green stem notes (uncorruptible), sweet blue freesia (having it's 15 mins of fame); white birchwood (our very own Nature Girl); Amber (decadently mellow); Silver-Cloud Musk Accord (that's sultry on the outside, cool and collected on the inside).

Lily of the valley and greens give it the sharp coolness. The fragrance has movement, but still the notes are distinct, yet blending. My kids like it on me. That is always a good sign.

The bottle is fuchsia, red and yellow, popping from a two-dimensional plane. I quite like it.

For those wishing to recycle their bottles, Bond No 9 or anyone else's, they can be recycled at either SAKs or the NY Bond Boutiques. (As a way of thanking you, they will give you a refillable pocket spray with any purchase.)

There is, however, a niche for those who are bottle collectors. If bottles are kept long enough, are interesting enough, or are rare enough, empty (or not) bottles can fetch a pretty resale price.

I think Bond No 9's concept of the same bottle, but different designs is clever packaging. I only wish they were refillable, that would be really going green. I could see a shelf full of these empty lovelies as a design theme -- or still filled with fragrance if kept from light or heat.

Karin

Originally posted 2008-03-27 13:21:27.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/bond-no-9-andy-warhol-union-square/feed/ 3 Marc Jacobs, Orange http://savvythinker.com/marc-jacobs-orange/ http://savvythinker.com/marc-jacobs-orange/#comments Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:34:01 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2007/04/21/marc-jacobs-orange/

If you are looking for a sweet orange fragrance, not an orange blossom, check out the new MARC JACOBS ORANGE . It is a hefty 10 oz in a spray bottle reminiscent in some ways of a square Chanel bottle. In other words it looks and feels rich to use.

Additionally, since his splashes dissipate so quickly, you would want to spritz more often, so you would need a larger bottle than you are accustomed to.

Orange Splash is a fruity floral with top notes of bergamot, mandarin, neroli and tamarind; mid notes of water mint, freesia and white rose; and a dry down of moss, tonka bean amber, musk and blonde woods.

My first thought when I sampled this in Nordstroms, then spritzed again in SAKs, was that I wasn't sure if it stayed sweet or not. I'm not interested in orange blossom at all, as that is strictly a scrubber on me in whichever brand I have tried it, though some are worse than others. I also wondered if it had that masculine strain that I find not-so-happy to wear. I decided not to buy it until I had tried it again, even though I really like sweet orange fragrances. I went home with a sample from Nordstroms.

My second try was yesterday, without any other spritzes that I had tried the first time when I had sampled my way through my own individual sniffa, trying out as many new ones as they had that I thought I might like after spraying a card.

The second time it stayed sweet.

I think it is the mint underneath that is keeping it somewhat green. There isn't enough of the base notes for me to smell any mossy, woody or ambery or tonka bean dry down. That I would have particularly liked. If I had wanted to jazz up the orange, I would have simply spritzed again.

I'm wearing it again as I type. I dunno, I'd have to try it again to see if I felt it were FBW. So far, it is in the iffy range.

I think it is a perfectly adequate and lovely fragrance if you didn't already have sweet oranges and if you particularly like mint. Somehow the combination on me is almost, but not quite, an orange blossom.

Karin

Originally posted 2007-04-21 13:39:49.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/marc-jacobs-orange/feed/ 0 L’air du desert marocain by Tauer Perfumes http://savvythinker.com/lair-du-desert-marocain-by-tauer-perfumes/ http://savvythinker.com/lair-du-desert-marocain-by-tauer-perfumes/#comments Wed, 13 Jul 2011 16:58:28 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2007/02/17/lair-du-desert-marocain-by-tauer-perfumes/

I've heard a lot of good things about Andy Tauer fragrances, originating in Switzerland, and I was excited to finally be able to try several of them thanks to a friend at POL. I will add my reviews as I try each of them. I have added links to both his blog and his website at my link section.

Perfumes are pictures, painted with scents. Tauer Perfumes

I think for my first foray into Tauer Perfumes, L'air du desert marocain was a perfect choice. It is said to be a unisex fragrance, but it is not like any other unisex that I have tried. Tauer Perfumes says it is for 'him or her.' They do not call it unisex.

In general most unisex fragrances on me smell too masculine. It might be that most unisex fragrances are really neither masculine nor feminine which is why I do not like them on me. They have a certain nondesript quality to them, on me, as if one set of notes cancels out the other.

On the other hand, there are men's versions of fragrances that I prefer on me (and maybe I just prefer them on anyone) over the women's (Guerlain's L'instant for men is one of them.) Many fragrances can be enjoyed equally by men or women if the categories of men's or women's are forgotten and one only goes by the scent and how it smells on oneself. I know several men who wear women's fragrances as part of their fragrance wardrobe.

So I was intrigued to see how I would feel about this one. I find it a winner for either a man or a woman, but I would not classify it as unisex.

The scent of desire. Inspired by the fragrant world of the Maghreb desert. Powerful, sensual and pure. Tauer Perfumes

I find this scent to be wonderfully evocative. For me, it does paint a picture with fragrance. It is very paradoxical -- it is both warm and dry; both sweet and non-sweet; incensy and clear; a sensual scent and an intellectual one... I am transported as I wear it.

And the wonderful thing about it is that no note cancels out any other. Each note stands distinct, yet blends with the others in a dance of joy.

I have never been to the Maghreb desert, but if it smells anything like this, I am ready to go. In one sense that is similar to Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil which evokes the area around the Nile.

I was careful my first try to take only the tiniest spritz, because I didn't know what to expect. Not to fear, it is delicious. The dry down is sweet, but not too sweet, full of spicy incense and woods. And the journey from the beginning to the dry down is a lovely bit of travel. The opening is distinct from the drydown. It is not a fragrance that would bore one with sameness in all three stages. A little goes a long ways, and it lasted on me very well. Twelve hours later, it was still strong on my wrists.

For those who fear a cumin note, it is not negative at all.

The elegant head note is based on typical spicy scents of the Maghreb; coriander and cumin, joined with petitgrain. The warm heart note surprises with the fragrance of rock rose and a hint of jasmine. The body note is full of warm woods such as cedar wood, vetiver brilliantly joined with a fine amber background. Tauer Perfumes

Today I tried a bit more, and it is every bit as good. I think of this more as a skin scent, as I don't know if I would want to apply for sillage. Let those who come close to me partake of the pleasure.

It is very sensual, but soothing. I think it is full bottle worthy. It goes for $65 for 1.7 oz at Luckyscent in the US. It is also available in NY.

Have you tried it? do you own it?

Karin

Originally posted 2007-02-17 14:14:56.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/lair-du-desert-marocain-by-tauer-perfumes/feed/ 8 Guerlain Vol de Nuit Evasion http://savvythinker.com/guerlain-vol-de-nuit-evasion/ http://savvythinker.com/guerlain-vol-de-nuit-evasion/#comments Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:55:33 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/2008/06/20/guerlain-vol-de-nuit-evasion/

I must have been sleeping whenever this fragrance was discussed, because I only happened upon mention of it the other day when I was surfing for decants and samples. It seems to be one that is either liked or not -- there's no happy medium.

And it's important to know that there is nothing remotely like Vol de Nuit in this fragrance except for borrowing the name.

What I've noticed over time is that if you can wear Mitsouko or Vol de Nuit -- and like them -- then you might not like L'Heure Bleu or vice versa. That might be a way you could determine if you would like this or not, short of ordering a small sample.

I like Vol De Nuit a lot, and often layer it up as the notes soften during the day, starting with Chant d'Aromes, passing through Chamade or Mitsouko or both, and ending with Vol de Nuit at night, so I thought I'd like to give this a shot.

LHB is definitely not one of my faves, but I wear it occasionally.

I received my sample in today's mail and immediately sniffed and put some on my wrist.

The notes are peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.

And while these notes are common to a lot of Guerlain fragrances, they are put together in a different way in this one. I don't get any peach at all -- it isn't a bit like Femme by Rochas, for example. And it isn't a chypre at all.

On me, it starts out aldehydic with lots of powdery overtures. As that softens, it moves into a more animalic phase which has been described as smelling of sweat (which I do not get) or marine (salty, I'm guessing -- I do get a bit of salt in it). Underneath it all is iris, almost as sweet as in Iris Ganache, without the chocolate that puts it into the too sweet category for me. It reminds me of the iris in Prada Infusion d'Iris. In the drydown I get amber and woods, but no vanilla. It's there, but so minute as not to be particularly discernible.

So, there you have it. I will try it in a heavier dose a bit later today to see how that develops and compare it to Guet-Apens/Attrape-Coeur, which I have a bit of. It has also been compared to 31 Rue Cambon by Chanel, which I have never smelled. If you have that one, you might try comparing and let me know.

Vol de Nuit Evasion has been available in airport stores. You can also find it at ThePerfumedCourt.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Originally posted 2008-06-20 13:30:42.

Online Stores ]]> http://savvythinker.com/guerlain-vol-de-nuit-evasion/feed/ 0 Review Kilian Cruel Intentions Tempt Me http://savvythinker.com/review-kilian-cruel-intentions-tempt-me/ http://savvythinker.com/review-kilian-cruel-intentions-tempt-me/#comments Sun, 13 Mar 2011 07:12:31 +0000 Karin http://savvythinker.com/?p=3971

Cruel Intentions is a fragrance I've found surprisingly to my taste. Well, maybe not surprising, but it wasn't my first choice. I find I love it. And perhaps it should have been my first choice!

Again, *Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line at SAKs in Las Vegas, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me. He will take good care of you!

Kilian says:

A fragrance inspired by the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be « worth more than its weight in gold ». Perfumer : Sidonie Lancesseur

I've heard it said that it gets stronger on some, but on me it just stays softly resinous. I love the scent as it softens, and I love the bit that is on my clothes. I spray my wrist and arm, then transfer to the other arm and wrist. And I spritz my neck.

The notes are:

Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil,
Floral notes: violet accord, centifolia rose absolute,
Woody notes: agarwood (here is the oud again), Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood,
Animalic notes: styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.

This is not a sweet vanilla; it is more of a dry vetiver. It is so precisely blended that I cannot really separate the notes. Occasionally I get a glimpse of violets in the woods. Mostly it is a very wearable animalic fragrance. It is soft enough to be worn day or night by both men or women.

Sergio considers it the most complex of Kilian's fragrances. I don't know about that, but it is quite, quite lovely. My over all impression includes a leathery dry down, though leather is not listed as one of the notes.

This is a fragrance that has a double meaning in the name: likely if someone is being tempted, there are cruel intentions in that temptation.

But I don't find this fragrance cruel or cutting. It gets under your skin and becomes an ambiance. The sweetness that is there is not sugary, but resinous. It's even a little bit boozy, as I find his other fragrances. I find this particularly interesting, as Kilian is heir to the Hennessey cognac family.

Have you tried it? Do you love it? I bought this in the travel set.

It may be that I end up liking it as well as or more than Love, don't be shy.

You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.

Karin

Originally posted 2009-07-11 23:46:00.

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