Entries Tagged 'Violet' ↓
December 13th, 2009 — Aldehyde, Greens, Hyacinth, Iris, Just thinking, Lily of the Valley, Modern, Narcissus, Neroli, Orris, Perfume review, Perfumes, Rochas, Rose, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Violet, Woods
Madame Rochas was introduced in 1960. It used to be one of my favorites for spring and summer. It’s a floral aldehyde, but it has more zing than Chanel No. 5. The vintage fragrance was potent, but not over-powering. The modern version is different than the vintage — no wonder that whenever on whatever rare occasions I found it and spritzed it, it wasn’t me.
Original:
Top Notes: Hyacinth, neroli, aldehydes, greens, lemon
Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris, lily of the valley, violet, orris, narcissus, tuberose
Base Notes: Amber, cedarwood, sandalwood, moss, vetiver, musk, tonka bean
Well, I didn’t think it was me for a long time. I gave it a couple of decades long break. It had been one of the bottles I had felt I’d had to use up before I could buy another one. Doing that, I always really tired of it. Ha! if I hadn’t done that, I’d have my own vintage bottle, and it would still be in good scent condition.
Sometime in the last year I found vintage spray parfum on ebay, minus the decorative outer case/bottle. Never having worn the perfume, only the edt (I think) version which was as strong as edp, I thought I’d spring for it, if it were inexpensive enough, which it turned out to be. It certainly smelled fine, but again it wasn’t me. I hated to use it up as room spray! So, I decided to wait…and try again.
Today with spring in the offing, loads of wind and plenty of sun, it just felt like a Mme Rochas kind of day. Plus it conjures up plenty of happy memories and moments. No sense whatsoever wearing anything with bad vibes, LOL!
Yep, I was right. Given the right atmosphere, it is just as beautiful, rich and full-bodied as it ever was, complete with lovely woods.
How to describe it….similar to Chamade in some respects, but brighter. Heavy on rose and jasmine but blended into the woods and iris so it has a green aspect to it. There is more moss in the base than there is musk, which is a good thing for me. I picture myself walking through the woods towards a companion seeing bits of bright green spring grass and moss, with sunlight dappling through the trees, after a rain or with dew or mist on the ground. Each of those things bring me joy; having them together is a bonus.
It is long lasting and makes you happy. What more could you want! I’m glad it worked today.
Do you wear it? have you ever worn it? Why, oh why, do they tweak with perfection!
Karin
Originally posted 2007-04-16 11:54:13.
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October 20th, 2009 — Amber, Musk, Perfume review, Violet
Geste by Humiecki & Graef can be found at Lucky Scent $220 for 100 ml or $4 for .7 ml.
Notes: soft amber, musk, soft violet petals, soft fir resin
This fragrance is interestingly different.
I particularly liked this quotation in the description of it:
Geste is about the intensity of quiet things. Lucky Scent
We don’t often think of quiet things as having an intensity, but sometimes their intensity is stronger in a sense than something that is overtly intense and loud. Think of a quiet, sleeping baby. There is an intensity felt when looking at that child sleeping. We are drawn into it.
Likewise, this fragrance is subtly present, even though its individual parts are soft and quiet. For example, some ambers are so strong and potent, that they overtake everything in their wake. This amber is soft and simply present.
The fragrance morphs rather quickly from a soft, blended fragrance into its individual notes being distinguishable. First, the violet comes to the fore, a bit powdery. It is never a strictly sweet floral, however, the way BBW Violet Bouquet is only violet. Very quickly a bit of the amber comes dancing across, along with the musk. Under it all is the resiny nature of the soft fir.
My take:
I am only dabbing. It’s hard to know how strong it would be if spritzed. As I’ve said before, I’m not really a wearer of floral perfumes. I tend more toward Orientals or woody/incense. Overall, this feels sweet to me. I’m enjoying the sample, but I don’t know if I would want a full bottle. I would certainly consider it, if I didn’t already have other fragrances that are in this family.
Do you wear this one?
Have you tried this one? Do you like it?
Karin
www.savvythiner.com
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July 11th, 2009 — Bergamot et al, Kilian, Leather, Orange Blossom, Oud, Perfume review, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Violet, Woods
Cruel Intentions is a fragrance I’ve found surprisingly to my taste. Well, maybe not surprising, but it wasn’t my first choice. I find I love it. And perhaps it should have been my first choice!
Again, *Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line at SAKs in Las Vegas, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me. He will take good care of you!
Kilian says:
A fragrance inspired by the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be « worth more than its weight in gold ». Perfumer : Sidonie Lancesseur
I’ve heard it said that it gets stronger on some, but on me it just stays softly resinous. I love the scent as it softens, and I love the bit that is on my clothes. I spray my wrist and arm, then transfer to the other arm and wrist. And I spritz my neck.
The notes are:
Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil,
Floral notes: violet accord, centifolia rose absolute,
Woody notes: agarwood (here is the oud again), Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood,
Animalic notes: styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.
This is not a sweet vanilla; it is more of a dry vetiver. It is so precisely blended that I cannot really separate the notes. Occasionally I get a glimpse of violets in the woods. Mostly it is a very wearable animalic fragrance. It is soft enough to be worn day or night by both men or women.
Sergio considers it the most complex of Kilian’s fragrances. I don’t know about that, but it is quite, quite lovely. My over all impression includes a leathery dry down, though leather is not listed as one of the notes.
This is a fragrance that has a double meaning in the name: likely if someone is being tempted, there are cruel intentions in that temptation.
But I don’t find this fragrance cruel or cutting. It gets under your skin and becomes an ambiance. The sweetness that is there is not sugary, but resinous. It’s even a little bit boozy, as I find his other fragrances. I find this particularly interesting, as Kilian is heir to the Hennessey cognac family.
Have you tried it? Do you love it? I bought this in the travel set.
It may be that I end up liking it as well as or more than Love, don’t be shy.
You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.
Karin
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July 1st, 2009 — Absinthe, Bergamot et al, Cedar, Cinnamon, Oriental, Perfume review, Review, Tea, Vanilla, Violet, Woods
Updating: I’ve had a chance to sample these. Thanks to Kyler, Claire and Jorganne at Guerlain, Shoppes at the Palazzo, Suite 2848, Las Vegas. They make any trip to Vegas a good time!
It’s no secret that Guerlain is probably my most favorite perfume house. I was very pleased to get a chance to sniff these.
Claire sent me these pictures to share with you:
Called The Voyage Collection, the perfumes celebrate 3 great cities- Moscow, New York and Tokyo. They are $220.00 each.
Here’s what Guerlain has to say about them:
At Guerlain, it is a tradition. Crossing borders. Encountering new places. Discovering unfamiliar, exotic essences. Capturing the soul of a place by uncovering the emotional enchantment of its raw elements.
In 1828, pioneer and visionary Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain already understood the importance of travelling the world in search of new fragrance sensations. More than just innovative scents, he offered an escape, a voyage for the senses.
“A perfumer must go looking for scents,” observes Jean-Paul Guerlain. And today, in the grand Guerlain tradition of exploring the world’s riches, he has created a travel diary of scents, three new fragrances that pay homage to three fascinating cities: Moscow, New York and Tokyo.
They go on to say the following:
Three evocative fragrances that convey the identity and the heartbeat of these electrifying metropolises. Three liquid memories, presented in bottles embellished with drawings by sculptor Serge Mansau and topped with metal caps embossed with the emblematic double G. For each bottle, graphic artist Carla Talopp has devised a log, a scrapbook of cards, images, drawings, iconicphotos and symbols of the spirit of each city.
Here’s the scoop on the three fragrances:
Moscow
Have you been there? I’ve not been to Moscow, but I’ve been to St. Petersburg.
Moscow has awakened. Sleeping Beauty has opened her eyes, and her heart is fluttering. Moscow the serious has reinvented itself as Moscow the prosperous. Here and there, a hammer and sickle engraved on a building façade remind passers-by of its recent, restless history. But today, a fresh chapter is beginning. Each month, almost every day, Moscow’s inhabitants write a new paragraph.They celebrate the arrival of a luxury boutique or a lavish restaurant.Women vie with one another in elegance. Businessmen bustle about. All of them are part of the metamorphosis of a capital city that proudly displays its new modernity…
Moscow’s notes:
This one is my favorite! Just yummy!
With its musk, fruit and wood notes,…vanilla and bergamot …red currants..hint of absinthe, a sparkling lemon, a note of plum…pine needles.
And if you’d like a scent description to carry you away:
…ultra-feminine Paris-Moscow perfume echoes the heart beat that pounds through the Russian capital. This city throbs with life! Strolling through the opulent shopping arcades of the GUM, you are intoxicated by the heady fragrance of white musk and tonka bean. A carnal, sensual and elegant trace of vanilla and bergamot stays with you as you cross the Red Square. As you pass the Bosco Café, a sudden aroma of red currants delights your senses. The Moscow locals are enjoying their brunch, sipping their favourite beverage. Your senses stirred, you head off for some refreshment at the Botanical Gardens. A welcome respite. You close your eyes and watch as images from the day parade past. Electrified, you take in the hint of absinthe, a sparkling lemon, a note of plum. In the distance, you glimpse a verdant forest of pine needles. You can still hear the heart of Moscow beating.
How about New York!
New York, New York!
Woody Oriental
How many films, books and lyrics have sung the praises of the city where anything is possible? A land of dreams and pioneers, the Big Apple welcomes your deepest desires and craziest ambitions. This remarkable city boasts countless styles and atmospheres. A melting pot of communities and personalities, it evokes greatness with its skyscrapers, broad avenues and financial centre. At the same time, it cherishes its ‘villages’: Little Italy, Chinatown, theWestVillage with its tree-lined streets, low-built houses and tiny restaurants crowded with regulars. Day and night,New York is always bustling. Here, a young woman arrives at the gym as the clock strikes midnight. There, a man and his dog share dinner by the first light of dawn. Only in New York…
Notes:
I didn’t find this one particularly sweet. It certainly is apt for a man.
Sparkling and sweet…vanilla, cinnamon, cedar, cardamon, bergamot.
A scent description:
A woody oriental fragrance, sparkling and sweet, Paris-New York excites the tastebuds by transporting the senses to the heart of Manhattan on Christmas Eve. From the elegant Uptown to bohemian Downtown, children are dreaming of their Christmas pudding.Their nostrils quiver. Smells of vanilla and cinnamon float out of kitchen windows. A joyful frenzy of holiday anticipation reigns on Broadway, whose lights seem to sparkle with a new radiance. A pause; serious Wall Street goes quiet. The pedestrians on 5th Avenue finish their last errands.The sky is still the luminous, cloudless blue of a New York winter. The celebrations will start in just a few hours. Already, the air is thick with a scent of cedar, cardamom and bergamot.
Tokyo
Green and floral, fresh and delicate, subtle
Some say that you must see Tokyo before you die.To them, the capital of the Land of the Rising Sun is a required destination. A ground to tread. An atmosphere to soak in. An experience to live, no matter what. Tokyo fascinates, Tokyo charms, Tokyo intrigues, Tokyo intimidates. Tokyo leaves no one untouched. The surprising, completely alien metropolis embodies ultimate modernity.Tokyo is a dense ant hill, gradually stealing from the sea and sky what it can no longer find on the earth.The most daring architects eagerly orchestrate these extensions into space.
The city is immense; it offers an invitation to lose yourself and discover its contrasting districts, smaller cities within a city, which fit together like the animated pieces of a giant puzzle.
Notes:
This one is definitely a tea scent along the lines of the various teas from several different perfume companies. I like this one better though. If you like tea scents, you will love this one.
green and floral, jasmine, violet, cypress, tea and jasmine
And a scent desription:
Green and floral, fresh and delicate, Paris-Tokyo evokes all the subtlety of the Japanese capital.Willful, yet subtle. Ultra-modern, yet bound to its traditions.The sun is still low in the sky; it is the perfect time to awaken your senses in Hibiya Park, a rare green space designed with a Western aesthetic.Very few people are walking; you pass mainly joggers. As you stroll along a pond, the morning dew gives off a fragrance of jasmine and violet, intertwined with Hinoki cypress.You stop in a teahouse, slipping out of the stream of time into a cocoon of tranquility in the midst of turmoil. In this world apart where green tea and jasmine scent the air, you allow yourself be transported by the legendary, almost magical tea-drinking tradition. It is with regret that you leave the ceremony you wish could last forever. But Ginza, the Champs-Elysées of Tokyo, is already calling your name.”
Have you tried these?
Did you buy (any of) them? Which is your favorite?
How can you order them?
Phone: (702) 732-7008 (ask for Claire) or
Email: GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com
Karin
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June 28th, 2008 — Bergamot et al, Books, Candles, Iris, Lemon, Perfumes, Rose, The Different Company, Violet, Woods
Between L’artisan and Serge Lutens were testers from The Different Company. Since I love Bois d’Iris, I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to at least try one of them.
Bois d’Iris notes
iris (iris pallida aka “the Fastuous” or iris florentina), vetiver, bergamot, cedar wood, narcissus, geranium, musk
I decided to sample Un Parfum des Sens et Bois as much because I like woodsy notes as that I like several of Serge Lutens ‘Bois’ fragrances.
Un Parfum des Sens et Bois notes
Chinese Cedarwood, White Violet, Black Pepper, Elemi, Ginger, Patchouli, Vervain, Bergamot, and Incense.
Of the ones I tried, this was not on my list of favorites. It was more pungent than it was sweet or spicy. The predominate notes on me were pepper, ginger and incense. It was more masculine than I usually wear, and I would love to smell it on a man.
So there you have it, three companies sampled in one day. At least two that were bottle worthy. I might order decants before I get down to smell these in person again. I wish I had them tonight!
Karin
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June 28th, 2008 — Almond, Bergamot et al, Books, Frederick Malle, Honey, Iris, Perfume review, Perfumes, Tauer Perfumes, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Violet, Woods
Moving on to Serge Lutens from L’artisan:
Ahhhh… Oh my. This is the first time I’ve seen so many Lutens fragrances in one place since I was in Paris. On that trip I was overwhelmed by the choices, didn’t really know the offerings, and felt confused enough not to make a choice. Then a generous POL’er (you know who you are) sent me from Europe a wonderful selection of sample vials so that I could really try them at my leisure. I went on to order several decants and a couple of partial bottles.
This week I sampled Rousse, Datura Noir, and Miel de Bois.
Miel de Bois is practically straight honey. I prefer L’Occitane’s Honey and Lemon which has less honey predominating:
Miel de Bois:
Notes of honey and woods with top notes of ebony, gaiac and oak wood, middle notes of honey and bottom notes of beeswax, iris and hawthorn.
Honey and Lemon:
lemon and citrus fruit, golden honey, vanilla and caramel scents.
I liked this Datura Noir quite a bit, but I have Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Secrete Datura* and while not the same, it gave me pause to think of getting this one. I look forward to putting it on skin again, and comparing it to SD.
Datura Noir
Notes of myrrh, bitter almond, tonka bean, and musk, heliotrope, mandarin, lemon flower, and tuberose, vanilla, coconut oil, and apricot.
My favorite of what I tried was Rousse . I fell in love with this one, but I would want to sample it comparing it to Fou d’Absinthe on my next trip, unless I simply decide to bite the bullet and get both. Rousse was created by Chris Sheldrake. Cinnamon is one of my favorite spices, so to have it in a fragrance that is more than gourmand, is a delight.
I expected it to be like Chypre Rouge, which I find masculine, but it is not. Rousse is certainly wearable by a man; it is equally wearable for me.
Rousse
notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.
Now, I would be completely happy concerning fragrance if I had one or both of the ones I loved — but then would I be on the hunt for more? Yes, probably, but I’ve resigned myself to the knowledge that there are so many new offerings that it is impossible to test all of them. I must be satisfied with the few.
There were a couple Lutens I didn’t care for, but I didn’t write their names on the cards, and I am having trouble recognizing the names as I look for them, so I will have to have an addendum when I sample them again.
Karin
Secrete Datura’s notes:
Notes: Datura, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Chocolate
Top: intermingles the lily, heliotrope and lemon.
Mid: jasmin, honeysickle, wallflower and orange blossom,
base: iris, vanilla, chocolate, and sandalwood.
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May 10th, 2008 — Amber, Ayala Moriel, Books, Chypre, Comparing, Leather, Neil Morris, Neroli, Oakmoss, Oriental, Patchouli, Perfume review, Perfumes, Rose, Tauer Perfumes, Tobacco, Tom Ford, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Violet, Woods
No one ever accused me of not having expensive tastes. I was able to sample these on my recent trip, and if I had a lot of money burning a hole in my pocket, I would have bought several of them. They are not marketed exclusively for men or women, but all scents could be worn by anyone. I am reminded of the wonderful scents by Neil Morris, Andy Tauer or Ayala Moriel.
There are twelve to choose from and they look quite magnificent on the store counter. [1.7 oz is $165 and 8.3 oz is $450.] The latter is a huge bottle, hefty and dabs with the cap. I didn’t get near as much sillage this way. I preferred the spray. The 1.7 oz bottle has a nice hand to it and is meant to resemble a chess piece.
No matter what I think of Tom Ford and his ubiquitous ad campaigns for other fragrances, he certainly struck the right blend with these. Ahhhhhh…sigh…
Tobacco Vanille is my personal favorite, yummy and just right, not too sweet and not too heavy on the tobacco. It reminds me of a beloved uncle. And it definitely was good on me. It was the favorite of those around me. (As usual, I try a couple at a time on different arms. Then sample again on different days.)
Tobacco Vanille:
A modern take on an old world men’s club. A smooth oriental, Tobacco Vanille opens immediately with opulent essences of tobacco leaf and aromatic spice notes. The heart unfolds with creamy tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, and finishes with a dry fruit accord, enriched with sweet wood sap.
Black Violet was an interesting floral, not too sweet, but it became sweeter as it dried down. I quite liked the darker aspects that kept it from being a typical floral.
Black Violet
Crisp citrus surrounds a modern pulpy fruit accord, fused with black violets. Woody accents fold into oakmoss adding the universally comforting sensation of warmth.
Noir de Noir was another of my favorites. I like chypre and patchouli. But this is quite light, at least with my skin. I found over all it blended with my skin and got lost, compared to Japan Noir.
Noir de Noir A dark chypre oriental, this scent opens with an earthy mantle of richly woven saffron, black rose and black truffle, with hints of floralcy. Underneath, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood and tree moss soften the intensity, making the scent a sensual experience.
Japan Noir was another of my favorites. It had more sillage on me than Noir de Noir. An excellent choice.
Japan Noir: spices, purple patchouli, porto noir, night blooming jasmine, leather, amber, vetiver.
Tuscan Leather was sprayed on a card, by mistake, and handed to me as if it were Tobacco Vanille. All I could smell was leather! I thought, where is the tobacco?! (We realized our mistake.) Well, it isn’t in this fragrance, but if you like leather, this is a good one for you. I do like leather, but it is not my favorite note for me when it is dominant. I would like this on a man — or on a woman where the leather note is perfect for her chemistry.
Tuscan Leather: A chypre blend of notes brings a raw, yet reserved sensuality to Tuscan Leather for an original take on a classic leather scent. Saffron, raspberry and thyme, open to olibanum and night blooming jasmine. Leather, black suede and amberwood add an intricate richness.
I quite liked Oud Wood. It is lovely and soft. I believe it could be layered with other fragrances to add a woody accord. It is not heavy on rose, at least on me, and that is a good thing. [I also sampled Lancome's Mille et Rose -- and it was just a typical rose scent which got stronger on me and quite unpleasant. I have this trouble with rose scents and generally with Lancome scents, so don't let this put you off. I liked the bottle.]
Oud Wood: An exotic rose wood and cardamom, blended with exuberant Chinese pepper, envelope the wearer in warmth. Eventually, the center exposes a smokey blend of rare oud wood, sandalwood and vetiver. Finally, the creamy scents of tonka bean, vanilla and amber are revealed.
Purple Patchouli was not what I expected. I expected it to be heavy like the 60s — and heady. Instead, it was quite mild and more floral. I didn’t catch much spice or leather. Naming it Purple Pachouli gives the right idea.
Purple Patchouli: This 60’s inspired floral woody fragrance opens with an elegant orchid accord and wet, succulent citrus notes. The heart blends noir leather and a signature purple patchouli accord with exotic spices, supported by the intense depth of amber, Peru balsam and vetiver.
Amber, on the other hand is exactly what Amber is. You would have to try this on your skin, but it was rich and glorious. If you are looking for an amber, this is one to try, for sure.
Amber: A honey colored scent infused with the purest form of amber, joined by a tenacious refrain of African incense, labdanum, rich woods and a touch of vanilla bean.
Since I had already found a couple of favorites and did not want to wear out my welcome with the SA, I did not try the following. There will have to be another day.
Velvet Gardenia: I wish I’d seen how this differed from other gardenias. It sounds far more interesting.
Velvet Gardenia: A heady floral blend of ripened black gardenia and succulent orange deepens into a heart of jasmine, rose and muguet. Tuberose blends with dark plum, honey and beeswax, finishing with a smooth accord of incense and labdanum.
Bois Rouge: The notes sure sound like something I’d love.
Bois Rouge: This woody oriental opens with a blend of elegant citrus and spice. The luxurious heart reveals cedarwood, patchouli, jasmine and muguet. Sandalwood, vetiver, amber and refined leather are warmed by vanilla and tonka, adding lasting depth and texture.
Neroli Portofino: I don’t usually do well with orange blossom, but this might be different entirely, not to mention it has amber.
Neroli Portofino: A modern intercontinental version of an iconic fragrance theme, Neroli Portofino balances luminous citrus oils and floral notes with amber undertones that awaken the senses and leave a splashy yet substantive impression.
Moss Breches I think I did try this one. It is quite green, which I often love. I was on over load with the ones I liked. I’ll have to try this again first, rather than in the middle.
Moss Breches Dark and complex, this mystical chypre combines fresh wood and warm spice notes with the delicate essence of beeswax absolute. The scent intensifies with the addition of ingredients, such as Moroccan clary sage, Hungarian tarragon, Corsican rosemary and labdanum, patchouli and benzoin.
So there you have it. If you get a chance to try these, by all means do. I found them at Neiman Marcus. Perhaps they are in other places too.
Have you sampled these — or bought any of them?
Karin
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