Neil Morris spoke to me about this lovely, dark, lush fragrance:

I was walking one October in New York City, which is also called Gotham. It was a particularly warm evening, very dark, almost menacing in an intriguing way ... almost intriguingly menacing, it spoke to me of things hiding in the dark ... there was a kind of Sherlock Holmes feeling. It was a magical night, going to a couple of different clubs. It was intriguing, looking down dark alley ways -- a very unusual night in Gotham City, like a Batman Gotham scent, like a slice of pie, a portion of your life and trying to recapture it.

The notes are:

Top notes: Black Pepper, Yuzu
Mid notes: Rose, Narcissis
Base notes: Amber, Pearl Musk (lovely, creamy as Neil described it), Myrtlewood, Tonka absolute, Labdanum, Russian Leather, Redwood, and Ambergris

This fragrance is as lovely as the notes make it sound. It is creamy and smooth, intriguingly sweet in a dark way. It is not a floral sweetness, but it is rich with the amber and tonka, tempered with leather and woods. The pearl musk is lovely and creamy. It is not a musk that hits you in the face and just keeps on and on.

This fragrance weaves a spell. I left it for last, but it could have been first. Somehow for me, there is even the mingled scent of car exhaust in the air, but this is a good thing. In that respect it reminds me, but lightly, of one of Andy Tauer's scents, Lonestar Memories, but they aren't really alike.

Again, the price is $150 for 2 oz of perfume, not edp or edt.

Karin

Guerlain TONKA IMPERIAL EDP Used

US $175.00

2d 10h 54m

HERMES Hermessence Fragrance EDT 15ML Vétiver Tonka

US $52.00

2d 22h 7m

HERMES Hermessence 2x 4ML EDT vials Vétiver Tonka+ Osmanthe Yunnan NEW

US $19.00

2d 22h 27m

CBD BODY HEAT PERFUME OIL ROLLON SEXY FLORAL WOODSY TONKA BEAN CELEBRITY TYPE

US $10.92

3d 33m

Guerlain Tonka Imperiale Eau de Parfum 75 ml 2.5 oz TESTER perfume 95% FULL

13 Bids

US $135.83

4d 1h 22m

TONKA BEAN PERFUME OIL .5 DRAM BODY FRAGRANCE SWEET SCENT BUT NOT OVERPOWERING

US $2.79

5d 5h 42m

Guerlain Tonka Imperiale by Thierry Wasser 75ml 2.5oz

US $360.00

5d 8h 30m

Hermessence Vetiver Tonka by Hermes

US $39.99

5d 10h 44m

Hermessence Vetiver Tonka Hermes 15ml purse spray edt with pouch - new

US $60.00

6d 12h 18m

HERMES HERMESSENCE VETIVER TONKA - VERY EXCLUSIVE

US $15.00

8d 5h 32m

Originally posted 2008-02-04 10:01:57.

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I promised yesterday that I would compare these two.

I came across a site where you can compare fragrances. If you like one, what else might you like (or vice versa.) You can see it here.

When I went there, while waiting for my sample of VdNE to arrive, I was surprised to find they listed VdNE like this:

VOL DE NUIT EVASION 2007 (ATTRAPE-COEUR)

I had a bit of AC, so I wondered if I had simply bought the same thing with a new name. But checking further, the answer was no, these are two different fragrances.

However, when I wear them, comparing them, as I did yesterday afternoon and again today, there isn't enough difference in the two of them on me to warrant having both, unless I wanted one for daytime and one for evening.

The notes for VdNE are [Fragrance Family - oriental woody] : peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.

The notes for AC/GA are [Fragrance Family - Floral, Amber, Musk]:
Top: a burst of spell binding green notes
Heart: generous, floral/fruity notes (rose, jasmine, peach and tuberose)
Base: leather, powdery and dry wood notes (Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla and Musk)

or: green, fruity, rose, jasmine, peach, tuberose, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, leather.

It's only fair to say that those who love AC/GA do not, for the most part, like VdNE. I am testing vials; I am not spraying, so there is very little sillage and I have to smell up close to smell either one.

I asked all 3 of my girls to smell both fragrances on me several times. Without exception, if they smelled AC/GA (or VdNE) first, they could not smell the other one. (I had no problem.)

AC/GA is much richer and deeper. College Girl said it smelled more musky. I don't notice that at all particularly. I notice the leather and amber in it, especially the amber. The leather is completely wearable. It is not musty. It certainly smells very good. VdNE is lighter and more powdery, though both have some powder essence to them.

I asked CG again just now which she preferred on me. I have not reapplied since this morning.

She smelled VdNE first, then AC/GA. She said she preferred VdNE, "the deeper one." I said, "No, the other is deeper." She said, "Then VdNE has lasted longer." I think it is again, because she smelled the one first. To me, AC/GA is the deeper, fuller, more exotic one, and has lasted longer. But I like them both. Earlier in the day, my younger girls picked VdNE because it was "lighter."

There you have it. It appears to be a toss up, on me. I would think a man would prefer to wear AC/GA. But hey, give both a try! As I said, I like them both, and I would love to drench myself in spray to get a feeling for when they have heavier sillage.

AC costs EUR 130 for 125 ml. VdNE (edt) is EUR 46 for 50 ml.

Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. And if he's not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You'll see I'm right.

Tell them I sent you!

Karin

Addendum: the plot thickens! Evidently, according to French Guerlain sources, VdNE is the edt version of AC/GA edp version. Why on earth would they not keep the same name, AC/GA! No wonder they smell so similar, but one is lighter.

Originally posted 2008-06-21 15:59:29.

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Boudicca Wode edp (Scent) is an interesting fragrance. Not to mention that the edt starts off bright cobalt blue on the skin, then disappears.

It is said to start off smelling green, but I get serious leather underladen with green. Then Black Hemlock is supposed to kick in, ending with some tuberorse, though neither are listed in the notes. (Both Ormande Jayne for men and Ormande Jayne for women have Black Hemlock, the only other fragrances I know that do. I like both of them.) I get no tuberose, thankfully, as that usually takes over everything.

Wode (Scent) Notes
Juniper, Cardamon, Nutmeg, Clary Sage, Corriander, Angelica Root, Saffron, Tonka Bean, Styrax, Amber, Treemoss, Musk, Leather

The Price all from Lucky Scent
edp sample $4 for .7 ml or $165 for 150ml or
Wode (Paint) - edt - with disappearing Blue Paint $140 for 150ml -- the juice is bright cobalt blue when applied, then the color vanishes. Sounds a bit fun! I'd like to try that before I bought it, though.

My impression is walking on a windy night in a dark forest after the rain has passed through in a fierce rush, leaving sparkles where moonlight touches beads of water on the leaves. The scent mingles with wet leather gloves and walking boots. This is an airy scent; it is not shimmering with heaviness the way Neil Morris' Gotham, Dark Season or Dark Earth hit the senses.

It continues to soften as it is worn. The leather is still apparent.

Do you wear this one?
Which form did you buy?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

Originally posted 2009-10-02 08:06:53.

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I loved this description:

Jolie Madame is a very intelligent woman who is 100% conscious of her femininity and knows how to charm. She owns 50 lipsticks and always wears stockings. She's got great legs and will cross them to distract you.

Cabochard is female and happens to be irresistable, but never looks in the mirror because she's busy reading physics. Her hair's glossy because she was born that way. When she looks up from her book, your heart nearly stops, her eyes are so beautiful. She doesn't wear makeup. It wouldn't occur to her.

Fulltiltredhead at POL, with permission

Jolie Madame 1953 Chypre-Floral
Top Notes: Gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, neroli
Heart Notes: Jasmine, tuberose, rose, jonquil, orris
Base Notes: Patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, castoreum, leather, civet

Cabochard by Gres for Women 3 Piece Set Includes: 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Spray + 0.10 oz Eau de Parfum Miniature + 1.69 oz Perfumed Body Lotion has been one of my favorites for years. (I chose this set to highlight for you vs. the spray alone because I love the perfume. I've sampled the lotion, and it is great too, and often enough to wear alone for the fragrance.) However, I do love and wear makeup. ;p

My comments are on the vintage for both.

I think Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain for Women 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray is more wearable by more people. It is easier to wear, starts off easier and ends up easier.

Cabochard is a lovely fragrance and one I've worn a lot at various times. I think I'm lucky to be able to wear it. Not everyone can.

Cabochard 1953 citrus, leather, and tobacco; a refined, woody, arid fragrance.
Top Notes¦Citrus with spice accents
Middle Notes¦Jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, Ylang-Ylang
Base Notes¦Amber, Castoreum, Moss, Musk, Patchouli

”Cabochard” is French for “charmingly persistent”, or “stubborn” perfect for the individualist…
I recently read that it takes 6400 jasmine flowers and 240 roses to create one ounce of Cabochard…

It starts off with a bang...and ends up, on me, delightfully softened, a sweet floralish note comes out (and I don't usually wear any white florals well) and sits, not demurely, with the leather in harmony.

It's a kick-a&^ fragrance, one to wear if you want to make a mark on the world that day. And go really light with it, unless it hits the soften point fast. It might overwhelm you otherwise.

It's not at all like Knowing, but it has that hugeness to it.

Jolie Madame is a little sweeter from the get-go. I've only just begun to wear it. It's interesting to me that they both were created in 1953. I wear the parfum of Cabochard.

How about you?
Do you wear either of these?

Karin

Originally posted 2007-01-05 14:24:20.

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puredistance M is the newest in the puredistance line and equally scrumptious if you wear leather fragrances. I've had it to review for a while, but wanted to try it several times and in different climates. I was given a small vial by puredistance.

Top Notes: bergamot, lemon,
Middle Notes: jasmine, rose
Base Notes: Cinnamon, patchouli, mosses, cistus, vetiver, patchouli (that's right, listed twice), vanilla, leather, musk [or: carnation, cinnamon, cloves, vetiver, patchouli, French cistus labdanum, oakmoss, musk, woods, and leather]

This fragrance packs a punch, because of its high concentration of perfume oils (25%); because it was created by Roja Dove; because it is reminiscent of earlier incarnations from other lines where oakmoss was predominant; because it is marketed for both men and women. It even has a bit of an incense feel to it.

It smells like something I should remember, if that makes sense. Perhaps Bal a Versailles -- not that it shares many notes, but because of the punch factor. Perhaps vintage Shalimar -- though no vanilla or that sweetness. Maybe it is Cabochard by Gres.

On me, it goes through 3 distinct stages: First, the punch (in a good way) -- gorgeous, full bloomed, leathery chypre, with loads of oakmoss; second, a rich leather; third (the drydown) leathery cloves.

I love the fact that it moves through stages as I wear it. I find myself catching hints of it and asking myself if I have a favorite point in wearing it. I think, for me, I love the drydown -- but then again, the first is very striking.

Wear this if you want to be seen as a powerhouse, but be careful how much you use. A few drops are potent enough.

I rate it 4**** out of 5***** because there may be points that lean a little more to the masculine than I usually wear, but for a man, it is definitely 5*****.

Have you tried it?
If you are looking for a new, but vintage, leather, this may be what you are looking for. It is both luxe and wearable.

You can find the fragrances here.

The price point is expensive, but worth it, and the sleeves are crystal, or leather, though you can get away with just the insert.

You can find my other puredistance reviews here.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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I could tell how much Neil loves creating perfumes by his gentle enthusiasm when he spoke with me. He is knowledgeable and enjoys sharing his gift with others. He speaks plainly but in layman's terms, so that if you are just learning about perfumes you aren't left feeling inadequate.

He told me he considers all his fragrances to be shared fragrances. They have no gender specificity. I liked his term, rather than the term unisex. Often I cannot wear unisex fragrances, because they smell too masculine, but his shared fragrances are just that: fragrances that can be shared with your significant other. You could buy it for him/her and appropriate it for yourself.

He said to me:

You are being played by the market if you think a fragrance is only for men (or women.) It is a market ploy to get heterosexual men to wear fragrances. Chanel # 5 will smell differently on a man than a woman. A woman might bring out the floral or the aldehydes. A man might bring out the spices.

Of course, he is right. I think a woman might have been more apt to wear a men's fragrance in days past, than a man might have been to wear a woman's. But that is changing as the market is becoming more educated. I still find here that SAs are surprised if I say I prefer the men's version to the woman's of a fragrance, but at least they are learning to know me, and perhaps to broaden their own ideas.

Neil went on to speak about his custom blend or bespoke fragrances. He said:

I take their happy memories and put them in a bottle for them. We talk for about an hour, before we begin to do anything else, to explore the scents that will make up their fragrance. I want their happy memories to be evoked every time they use the fragrance.

[Perfumery] is all about memories: either about an existing memory or creating a memory.

He had a couple coming to see him the next day who were having a fragrance made up for their wedding day. They were each going to wear the fragrance, then every time they wore it again, it would remind them of the happy memories their wedding day held for them.

I thought that was great! I would have loved to have done something like that, had it been available at the time.

I feel his charge is reasonable: if you visit him in person, he charges $375. If he needs to travel, then the price is adjusted by time and distance.

Meantime, some of us have heard the story behind the bespoke fragrance for Ida/Chaya (d'Ida). He surprised her with it, after having her test it, just as PDI. She was, as you can imagine, pleased and touched.

One thing I love about his fragrances is that they are so well blended that they move gently from top to bottom, they are not strident. And they are long lasting.

Here are the notes for d'Ida:

Top: Blackberry, Clove, Elemi, Aldehydes.
Middle: Geranium, Gardenia, Ylang Ylang.
Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Jatamansi, Myrrh, Civet, Black Agar, Russian Leather

My overall impression on me is fruity/spicy. And spicy is something I love to wear. The leather entwines through it so deeply that it melds as part of it while being balanced by all the other notes. Somehow it reminds me of all the good that is Ida: sweet and spicy, deep and spiritual.

Ida has shared her story at another blog.

Velvetsky gave her review at her blog.

Karin

Originally posted 2008-01-16 10:23:48.

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Cruel Intentions is a fragrance I've found surprisingly to my taste. Well, maybe not surprising, but it wasn't my first choice. I find I love it. And perhaps it should have been my first choice!

Again, *Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line at SAKs in Las Vegas, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me. He will take good care of you!

Kilian says:

A fragrance inspired by the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be « worth more than its weight in gold ». Perfumer : Sidonie Lancesseur

I've heard it said that it gets stronger on some, but on me it just stays softly resinous. I love the scent as it softens, and I love the bit that is on my clothes. I spray my wrist and arm, then transfer to the other arm and wrist. And I spritz my neck.

The notes are:

Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil,
Floral notes: violet accord, centifolia rose absolute,
Woody notes: agarwood (here is the oud again), Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood,
Animalic notes: styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.

This is not a sweet vanilla; it is more of a dry vetiver. It is so precisely blended that I cannot really separate the notes. Occasionally I get a glimpse of violets in the woods. Mostly it is a very wearable animalic fragrance. It is soft enough to be worn day or night by both men or women.

Sergio considers it the most complex of Kilian's fragrances. I don't know about that, but it is quite, quite lovely. My over all impression includes a leathery dry down, though leather is not listed as one of the notes.

This is a fragrance that has a double meaning in the name: likely if someone is being tempted, there are cruel intentions in that temptation.

But I don't find this fragrance cruel or cutting. It gets under your skin and becomes an ambiance. The sweetness that is there is not sugary, but resinous. It's even a little bit boozy, as I find his other fragrances. I find this particularly interesting, as Kilian is heir to the Hennessey cognac family.

Have you tried it? Do you love it? I bought this in the travel set.

It may be that I end up liking it as well as or more than Love, don't be shy.

You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.

Karin

Originally posted 2009-07-11 23:46:00.

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I have not had the opportunity to sample Washington Square from the juice, but there was an insert in the SAKs catalog. I was really pleasantly surprised!

The bottle is very attractive, their first featuring people. The softness of the colors remind me of pointillism, though that is not how it is designed. I find myself wanting to walk into the scene, for it looks like you could walk right under the arch.

The notes include:

Purple Rose with Tarragon (love this scent and spice), vetiver, and leather accord. SAKs insert.

or, in more detail:

top notes: Italian bergamot, geranium and tarragon;
middle notes: purple rose and honey;
base notes: vintage amber, a leather accord, vetiver and musk.

It is described as

an assertively dissident scent that never forgets to be beautiful; it has a female-male crossover appeal, whose balance is on the female side.

I don't catch any dissidence in the sample (which is a kind of powder) nor do I find the leather very strong. I catch the rose, but it is tempered with the other notes. I tend to like a dirty rose, not a sweet one, and this fragrance appeals to me because it is not your grandmother's rose fragrance. It certainly doesn't smell like rose water. It is a bit like YSL's Elle, but different enough, softer in some respects, that if you like Elle, you could have this in your repertoire too.

Have you had a chance to smell this IRL yet?
I will have to wait until I am shopping out of town, because none of the department stores near me carry Bond No 9. But I'm not too far from a SAKs, so it is on my list of things to do.

How about you? Do you want to try this one? Do you love it? Have you bought it? Will you buy it?
It is priced as all the other Bond No 9's: 3.4 oz edp $230; 1.7 oz $170; .7 fl oz. $95.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

2 Bond No 9 New York Bon Bon ANDY WARHOL LEXINGTON AVENUE Perfume Sample Vial

US $9.99

18m

BOND No.9 WEST BROADWAY 3.3 FL oz / 100 ML Eau De Parfum Spray NIB

US $144.99

1h 5m

Lot 4 Bond No 9 ANDY WARHOL UNION SQUARE Wrapped Bon Bon Sample Perfume Vial NEW

1 Bid

US $8.99

1h 48m

Bond No.9 Bon Bon Samples Lot of 3 Signature Bond no 9 Silver Fac

US $27.99

2h 36m

EAU DE NEW YORK FOR WOMEN BY BOND No.9 3.4OZ EDP NIB New In Retail Box (1063)

US $185.50

2h 53m

2 Bond No. 9 - Bon Bon Spray Samples - Bond No. 9 Perfume

1 Bid

US $5.99

3h 2m

BOND NO 9 SIGNATURE PERFUME PURSE SPRAY 4 DIFFERENT SCENTS .25 oz. 6ml.

2 Bids

US $32.97

4h 12m

Bond No. 9 Signature, High Line, Astor Place Perfume Sample 1.7ml each NEW

US $15.95

4h 13m

BOND No.9 PARK AVENUE 3.3 FL oz / 100 ML Eau De Parfum Spray NIB

US $139.99

4h 43m

3 Bond No. 9 I Love New York Samples

0 Bid

US $12.99

5h 35m

Authentic Bond No 9 WASHINGTON SQUARE EDP Spray 1.7oz/50ml NIB $180

US $183.00

8h 19m

Washington Square by Bond No.9 .057 oz Sample Vial

US $9.99

1d 5h 7m

Authentic Bond No 9 WASHINGTON SQUARE EDP Spray 1.7oz/50ml NIB $180

US $169.93

5d 22m

Washington Square Eau de Parfum 3.3 oz EDP by Bond No. 9 for Women NIB

US $185.95

17d 17h 24m

Authentic Bond No 9 WASHINGTON SQUARE EDP Spray 3.3oz/100ml NIB $240

US $193.99

19d 23h 56m

Washington Square by Bond No. 9 Eau De Parfum Spray 3.3 oz

US $207.00

20d 20h 26m

Bond No. 9 NY Washington Square for Women 3.4 oz 100 ml EDP Spray

US $186.90

21d 7h 42m

Washington Square by Bond No. 9 Eau De Parfum Spray 3.3 oz Women NIB

US $176.52

23d 14h 28m

Washington Square by Bond No. 9 3.3 oz EDP

US $199.95

28d 20h 52m

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I received this Cuir de Russie candle from Le Jardin Retrouvé so that I could review it and share my impressions with my readers. I loved the silver look of it, and I lit it, the minute I got it out of the packaging.

Cuir de Russie is one of my favorite Le Jardin Retrouvé fragrances. I reviewed it as a guest blogger at Cologne Perfume Fragrance.

In reviving this forgotten perfume, …Le Jardin Retrouvé has created a brand new interpretation of RUSSIAN LEATHER. While it still follows the strict traditions of French perfumery-making, it is distinguishable by its originality stemming from the various flowery and green notes, diffused and long-lasting, exhalting the the richness and warmth of the Jardin Retrouvé's RUSSIAN LEATHER.

I love the green notes in it, which are not over powering, but add dimension.

The candle

The candle is very elegant looking. It is a dark silver color. The candle pictured online is different than the one I received. I do not know which packaging is the current one. Each candle will burn for more than 50 hours, and the fragrance will last until the end.

Cuir de Russie (Russian leather), a complex composition, very "warm" and powerful, containing ingredients evoking the smell of leather in a rather "impressionist" interpretation. It is constructed around harmonies of AMBER - SPICE - WOOD, with a light FLORAL touch which "rounds off" the composition and gives it a stronger diffusing power.

Scented air

The fragrance diffuses nicely into the air. It is exactly the right strength. It is filling the room, without being too strong, and I have moved it from one room to another.

My take

I rate this 4* out of 4*. If you love fragranced candles and want something that is a true perfume, not ordinary run-of-the-mill, this is for you. There is no candle wax over-scent. The candle burns true to the fragrance. They are moderately priced at 19 € each.

I cannot speak for the other fragranced candles, but judging from the qualities of the perfumes that I have sampled, I expect them to be every bit as lovely.

Have you tried any of their candles?

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Them for Free Samples - Tout autour du Monde - All around the world.) Do you have a favorite?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

Originally posted 2009-11-24 16:55:51.

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Continuing my exploration of Anya's Garden scents -- today I'm wearing Kaffir which is the strongest of all her scents. It is the only one available in cologne strength.

This is one I recommend definitely getting a sample first. As I said, it is very strong. On me, it starts out with a crisp, hay accord that lasts for a couple of hours, even though hay is not a note that is listed.

Fragrance Family: Citrus-Floral-Leather/Wood
Top notes: Kaffir Thai lime leaf, galbanum, French and Tropical tarragon accord
Middle notes: tinctures of eight jasmines, heritage oak extract, Grasse jasmine
Base notes: sustainable golden agarwood, musk seed, leather accord

Here's what Anya says about it:

Lemon lime with a Thai twist, floral and leather and warm wood...

Tropical flirty fun - Kaffir radiates good vibes of sexy playfulness, and stimulates the wearer to explore their own version of intrigue and romance -- and keep it going for hours with the surprising leather drydown. A complex accord of eight jasmines and heritage oak weave sensuously, surprisingly. Pure foodie pleasure with an incredible lemon/lime twist. The leather drydown lingers and adds a soft and animalic surprise.

My take
This fragrance is very lovely when it enters the second and third stages.

I know there are many who look for hay accords in fragrances, and this is heavy on that when it begins, though as I said, it is not listed as a note. I don't smell tarragon, though it is one of my favorite spices to cook with and has a lovely sweet scent, smelling much like it tastes.

Once it enters into the second and third stages of the fragrance, it is soft, sweet, woodsy, and a bit of leather. These are the points where I love it very much.

This would be an excellent scent for a man.

Purchase for
3.5 ml parfum extrait $60
15 ml edp $100
15 ml cologne $50
Sample $7

I would love to know if you wear this one and how it wears on you. Do you get that hay accord? Do you have another favorite of Anya's?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

See also: Anya's Garden-Temple and RiverCali and my review of Fairchild and Pan. See also my review of MoonDance and Starflower.

DELICES DE CARTIER PERFUME 3.3 3.4 OZ EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY NIB

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