Entries Tagged 'Leather' ↓

Neil Morris Fragrances, Part 2 his bespoke fragrances

I could tell how much Neil loves creating perfumes by his gentle enthusiasm when he spoke with me. He is knowledgeable and enjoys sharing his gift with others. He speaks plainly but in layman’s terms, so that if you are just learning about perfumes you aren’t left feeling inadequate.

He told me he considers all his fragrances to be shared fragrances. They have no gender specificity. I liked his term, rather than the term unisex. Often I cannot wear unisex fragrances, because they smell too masculine, but his shared fragrances are just that: fragrances that can be shared with your significant other. You could buy it for him/her and appropriate it for yourself.

He said to me:

You are being played by the market if you think a fragrance is only for men (or women.) It is a market ploy to get heterosexual men to wear fragrances. Chanel # 5 will smell differently on a man than a woman. A woman might bring out the floral or the aldehydes. A man might bring out the spices.

Of course, he is right. I think a woman might have been more apt to wear a men’s fragrance in days past, than a man might have been to wear a woman’s. But that is changing as the market is becoming more educated. I still find here that SAs are surprised if I say I prefer the men’s version to the woman’s of a fragrance, but at least they are learning to know me, and perhaps to broaden their own ideas.

Neil went on to speak about his custom blend or bespoke fragrances. He said:

I take their happy memories and put them in a bottle for them. We talk for about an hour, before we begin to do anything else, to explore the scents that will make up their fragrance. I want their happy memories to be evoked every time they use the fragrance.

[Perfumery] is all about memories: either about an existing memory or creating a memory.

He had a couple coming to see him the next day who were having a fragrance made up for their wedding day. They were each going to wear the fragrance, then every time they wore it again, it would remind them of the happy memories their wedding day held for them.

I thought that was great! I would have loved to have done something like that, had it been available at the time.

I feel his charge is reasonable: if you visit him in person, he charges $375. If he needs to travel, then the price is adjusted by time and distance.

Meantime, some of us have heard the story behind the bespoke fragrance for Ida/Chaya (d’Ida). He surprised her with it, after having her test it, just as PDI. She was, as you can imagine, pleased and touched.

One thing I love about his fragrances is that they are so well blended that they move gently from top to bottom, they are not strident. And they are long lasting.

Here are the notes for d’Ida:

Top: Blackberry, Clove, Elemi, Aldehydes.
Middle: Geranium, Gardenia, Ylang Ylang.
Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Jatamansi, Myrrh, Civet, Black Agar, Russian Leather

My overall impression on me is fruity/spicy. And spicy is something I love to wear. The leather entwines through it so deeply that it melds as part of it while being balanced by all the other notes. Somehow it reminds me of all the good that is Ida: sweet and spicy, deep and spiritual.

Ida has shared her story at another blog.

Velvetsky gave her review at her blog.

Karin

Originally posted 2008-01-16 10:23:48.

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Review: Cuir de Russie candle by Le Jardin Retrouvé

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I received this Cuir de Russie candle from Le Jardin Retrouvé so that I could review it and share my impressions with my readers. I loved the silver look of it, and I lit it, the minute I got it out of the packaging.

Cuir de Russie is one of my favorite Le Jardin Retrouvé fragrances. I reviewed it as a guest blogger at Cologne Perfume Fragrance.

In reviving this forgotten perfume, …Le Jardin Retrouvé has created a brand new interpretation of RUSSIAN LEATHER. While it still follows the strict traditions of French perfumery-making, it is distinguishable by its originality stemming from the various flowery and green notes, diffused and long-lasting, exhalting the the richness and warmth of the Jardin Retrouvé’s RUSSIAN LEATHER.

I love the green notes in it, which are not over powering, but add dimension.

The candle

The candle is very elegant looking. It is a dark silver color. The candle pictured online is different than the one I received. I do not know which packaging is the current one. Each candle will burn for more than 50 hours, and the fragrance will last until the end.

Cuir de Russie (Russian leather), a complex composition, very “warm” and powerful, containing ingredients evoking the smell of leather in a rather “impressionist” interpretation. It is constructed around harmonies of AMBER – SPICE – WOOD, with a light FLORAL touch which “rounds off” the composition and gives it a stronger diffusing power.

Scented air

The fragrance diffuses nicely into the air. It is exactly the right strength. It is filling the room, without being too strong, and I have moved it from one room to another.

My take

I rate this 4* out of 4*. If you love fragranced candles and want something that is a true perfume, not ordinary run-of-the-mill, this is for you. There is no candle wax over-scent. The candle burns true to the fragrance. They are moderately priced at 19 € each.

I cannot speak for the other fragranced candles, but judging from the qualities of the perfumes that I have sampled, I expect them to be every bit as lovely.

Have you tried any of their candles?

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Them for Free Samples – Tout autour du Monde – All around the world.) Do you have a favorite?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Review: Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur (Fine Leather)

Continuing through my samples:

Cuir Pleine Fleur (Fine Leather) by James Heeley is available from Lucky Scent $148 for 100 ml or $3 for .7 ml. They carry 10 of his fragrances.

Notes: violet, mimosa, birch, soft leather notes and vetiver

Now this is a very nice fragrance, right up my alley. I really love it.

The leather is softly present from the beginning, but as the fragrance settles in, within minutes, more of the soft florals show up. In a way, it is like Bond No. 9 Peace with leather. Or it is like a much softer version of Cabochard, once Cabochard settles down.

I think this could easily become a new favorite. To ramp up the leather, just re-spritz. It is very wearable and comforting to me.

I also like that there is some progression with it. You make a journey from lots of leather to floral to soft leather. Very, very nice.

Supposedly each of Jame Heeley’s fragrances evolve around a main fragrance note, staying fresh and modern in interpretation. I can vouch for Fine Leather — it is not your grandmother’s Cabochard, nor is it the simplicity of Peace. I have not tried any other of his fragrances yet — and I don’t know if I have any in my sample stash.

How about you?
Do you wear this one? Have you tried it?

Karin

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Review: Boudicca Wode (Scent)

Boudicca Wode edp (Scent) is an interesting fragrance. Not to mention that the edt starts off bright cobalt blue on the skin, then disappears.

It is said to start off smelling green, but I get serious leather underladen with green. Then Black Hemlock is supposed to kick in, ending with some tuberorse, though neither are listed in the notes. (Both Ormande Jayne for men and Ormande Jayne for women have Black Hemlock, the only other fragrances I know that do. I like both of them.) I get no tuberose, thankfully, as that usually takes over everything.

Wode (Scent) Notes
Juniper, Cardamon, Nutmeg, Clary Sage, Corriander, Angelica Root, Saffron, Tonka Bean, Styrax, Amber, Treemoss, Musk, Leather

The Price all from Lucky Scent
edp sample $4 for .7 ml or $165 for 150ml or
Wode (Paint) – edt – with disappearing Blue Paint $140 for 150ml — the juice is bright cobalt blue when applied, then the color vanishes. Sounds a bit fun! I’d like to try that before I bought it, though.

My impression is walking on a windy night in a dark forest after the rain has passed through in a fierce rush, leaving sparkles where moonlight touches beads of water on the leaves. The scent mingles with wet leather gloves and walking boots. This is an airy scent; it is not shimmering with heaviness the way Neil Morris’ Gotham, Dark Season or Dark Earth hit the senses.

It continues to soften as it is worn. The leather is still apparent.

Do you wear this one?
Which form did you buy?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Review Kilian Cruel Intentions Tempt Me

Cruel Intentions is a fragrance I’ve found surprisingly to my taste. Well, maybe not surprising, but it wasn’t my first choice. I find I love it. And perhaps it should have been my first choice!

Again, *Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line at SAKs in Las Vegas, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me. He will take good care of you!

Kilian says:

A fragrance inspired by the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be « worth more than its weight in gold ». Perfumer : Sidonie Lancesseur

I’ve heard it said that it gets stronger on some, but on me it just stays softly resinous. I love the scent as it softens, and I love the bit that is on my clothes. I spray my wrist and arm, then transfer to the other arm and wrist. And I spritz my neck.

The notes are:

Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil,
Floral notes: violet accord, centifolia rose absolute,
Woody notes: agarwood (here is the oud again), Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood,
Animalic notes: styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.

This is not a sweet vanilla; it is more of a dry vetiver. It is so precisely blended that I cannot really separate the notes. Occasionally I get a glimpse of violets in the woods. Mostly it is a very wearable animalic fragrance. It is soft enough to be worn day or night by both men or women.

Sergio considers it the most complex of Kilian’s fragrances. I don’t know about that, but it is quite, quite lovely. My over all impression includes a leathery dry down, though leather is not listed as one of the notes.

This is a fragrance that has a double meaning in the name: likely if someone is being tempted, there are cruel intentions in that temptation.

But I don’t find this fragrance cruel or cutting. It gets under your skin and becomes an ambiance. The sweetness that is there is not sugary, but resinous. It’s even a little bit boozy, as I find his other fragrances. I find this particularly interesting, as Kilian is heir to the Hennessey cognac family.

Have you tried it? Do you love it? I bought this in the travel set.

It may be that I end up liking it as well as or more than Love, don’t be shy.

You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.

Karin

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Layering or mixing Guerlain Bois D’Armenie with Cuir Beluga

Sometimes the sum of two perfumes is greater than its parts. Such is the wonderful new mix that Claire Young from the Guerlain store in the Palazzo in Las Vegas came up with, when he was looking for a fragrance suitable for a woman who really doesn’t care for flowers.

I’d like to think that our trying to layer something with Iris Ganache sparked him to think of various combos. But that might be wrong.

He hit upon a winner: Bois D’Armenie mixed with (or layered with) and Cuir Beluga.

Here’s his description:

In my little fragrance lab of a boutique, I’ve found a new concoction I’m now adoring. It’s a combo of Cuir Beluga and Bois D’armiene…a mix of Chinese incense with vanilla notes…I’ve been wearing it a week now and adore.

He sent it off to me to see what I thought. It’s terrific!

Here are the notes:

Bois D’Armenie, an oriental woody fragrance for men:
Top notes are iris, pink pepper and incense;
middle notes are coriander, benzoin and guaiac wood;
base notes are patchouli, white musk.

Cuir Beluga:
fragrance notes include:
Leather, Mandarin, Everlasting Flower, Amber, Heliotrope, Vanille

He tells me he’s sold several of them (which, of course, involves two bottles.)

If you are lucky enough to have both on hand, try them. Or, if you own one and try the combo, you only have to buy the other one.

The one I have is an equal mix of both in one container. (I have done this with Chanel # 5 and Coco.)

What I think
This is a match made in heaven. Let me know if you try it — and how you like it. It certainly works for a man or a woman. And let me know if you love it! I am steeping in it now and enjoying every breath.

Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. He’s the man. He’ll take good care of you. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.

Tell them I sent you! You heard it from me.

Karin

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Comparing perfumes — Vol de Nuit Evasion with Attrape-Coeur/Guet-Apens

I promised yesterday that I would compare these two.

I came across a site where you can compare fragrances. If you like one, what else might you like (or vice versa.) You can see it here.

When I went there, while waiting for my sample of VdNE to arrive, I was surprised to find they listed VdNE like this:

VOL DE NUIT EVASION 2007 (ATTRAPE-COEUR)

I had a bit of AC, so I wondered if I had simply bought the same thing with a new name. But checking further, the answer was no, these are two different fragrances.

However, when I wear them, comparing them, as I did yesterday afternoon and again today, there isn’t enough difference in the two of them on me to warrant having both, unless I wanted one for daytime and one for evening.

The notes for VdNE are [Fragrance Family - oriental woody] : peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.

The notes for AC/GA are [Fragrance Family - Floral, Amber, Musk]:
Top: a burst of spell binding green notes
Heart: generous, floral/fruity notes (rose, jasmine, peach and tuberose)
Base: leather, powdery and dry wood notes (Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla and Musk)

or: green, fruity, rose, jasmine, peach, tuberose, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, leather.

It’s only fair to say that those who love AC/GA do not, for the most part, like VdNE. I am testing vials; I am not spraying, so there is very little sillage and I have to smell up close to smell either one.

I asked all 3 of my girls to smell both fragrances on me several times. Without exception, if they smelled AC/GA (or VdNE) first, they could not smell the other one. (I had no problem.)

AC/GA is much richer and deeper. College Girl said it smelled more musky. I don’t notice that at all particularly. I notice the leather and amber in it, especially the amber. The leather is completely wearable. It is not musty. It certainly smells very good. VdNE is lighter and more powdery, though both have some powder essence to them.

I asked CG again just now which she preferred on me. I have not reapplied since this morning.

She smelled VdNE first, then AC/GA. She said she preferred VdNE, “the deeper one.” I said, “No, the other is deeper.” She said, “Then VdNE has lasted longer.” I think it is again, because she smelled the one first. To me, AC/GA is the deeper, fuller, more exotic one, and has lasted longer. But I like them both. Earlier in the day, my younger girls picked VdNE because it was “lighter.”

There you have it. It appears to be a toss up, on me. I would think a man would prefer to wear AC/GA. But hey, give both a try! As I said, I like them both, and I would love to drench myself in spray to get a feeling for when they have heavier sillage.

AC costs EUR 130 for 125 ml. VdNE (edt) is EUR 46 for 50 ml.

Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.

Tell them I sent you!

Karin

Addendum: the plot thickens! Evidently, according to French Guerlain sources, VdNE is the edt version of AC/GA edp version. Why on earth would they not keep the same name, AC/GA! No wonder they smell so similar, but one is lighter.

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Tom Ford Private Blend

No one ever accused me of not having expensive tastes. I was able to sample these on my recent trip, and if I had a lot of money burning a hole in my pocket, I would have bought several of them. They are not marketed exclusively for men or women, but all scents could be worn by anyone. I am reminded of the wonderful scents by Neil Morris, Andy Tauer or Ayala Moriel.

There are twelve to choose from and they look quite magnificent on the store counter. [1.7 oz is $165 and 8.3 oz is $450.] The latter is a huge bottle, hefty and dabs with the cap. I didn’t get near as much sillage this way. I preferred the spray. The 1.7 oz bottle has a nice hand to it and is meant to resemble a chess piece.

No matter what I think of Tom Ford and his ubiquitous ad campaigns for other fragrances, he certainly struck the right blend with these. Ahhhhhh…sigh…

Tobacco Vanille is my personal favorite, yummy and just right, not too sweet and not too heavy on the tobacco. It reminds me of a beloved uncle. And it definitely was good on me. It was the favorite of those around me. (As usual, I try a couple at a time on different arms. Then sample again on different days.)

Tobacco Vanille:
A modern take on an old world men’s club. A smooth oriental, Tobacco Vanille opens immediately with opulent essences of tobacco leaf and aromatic spice notes. The heart unfolds with creamy tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, and finishes with a dry fruit accord, enriched with sweet wood sap.

Black Violet was an interesting floral, not too sweet, but it became sweeter as it dried down. I quite liked the darker aspects that kept it from being a typical floral.

Black Violet
Crisp citrus surrounds a modern pulpy fruit accord, fused with black violets. Woody accents fold into oakmoss adding the universally comforting sensation of warmth.

Noir de Noir was another of my favorites. I like chypre and patchouli. But this is quite light, at least with my skin. I found over all it blended with my skin and got lost, compared to Japan Noir.

Noir de Noir A dark chypre oriental, this scent opens with an earthy mantle of richly woven saffron, black rose and black truffle, with hints of floralcy. Underneath, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood and tree moss soften the intensity, making the scent a sensual experience.

Japan Noir was another of my favorites. It had more sillage on me than Noir de Noir. An excellent choice.

Japan Noir: spices, purple patchouli, porto noir, night blooming jasmine, leather, amber, vetiver.

Tuscan Leather was sprayed on a card, by mistake, and handed to me as if it were Tobacco Vanille. All I could smell was leather! I thought, where is the tobacco?! (We realized our mistake.) Well, it isn’t in this fragrance, but if you like leather, this is a good one for you. I do like leather, but it is not my favorite note for me when it is dominant. I would like this on a man — or on a woman where the leather note is perfect for her chemistry.

Tuscan Leather: A chypre blend of notes brings a raw, yet reserved sensuality to Tuscan Leather for an original take on a classic leather scent. Saffron, raspberry and thyme, open to olibanum and night blooming jasmine. Leather, black suede and amberwood add an intricate richness.

I quite liked Oud Wood. It is lovely and soft. I believe it could be layered with other fragrances to add a woody accord. It is not heavy on rose, at least on me, and that is a good thing. [I also sampled Lancome's Mille et Rose -- and it was just a typical rose scent which got stronger on me and quite unpleasant. I have this trouble with rose scents and generally with Lancome scents, so don't let this put you off. I liked the bottle.]

Oud Wood: An exotic rose wood and cardamom, blended with exuberant Chinese pepper, envelope the wearer in warmth. Eventually, the center exposes a smokey blend of rare oud wood, sandalwood and vetiver. Finally, the creamy scents of tonka bean, vanilla and amber are revealed.

Purple Patchouli was not what I expected. I expected it to be heavy like the 60s — and heady. Instead, it was quite mild and more floral. I didn’t catch much spice or leather. Naming it Purple Pachouli gives the right idea.

Purple Patchouli: This 60’s inspired floral woody fragrance opens with an elegant orchid accord and wet, succulent citrus notes. The heart blends noir leather and a signature purple patchouli accord with exotic spices, supported by the intense depth of amber, Peru balsam and vetiver.

Amber, on the other hand is exactly what Amber is. You would have to try this on your skin, but it was rich and glorious. If you are looking for an amber, this is one to try, for sure.

Amber: A honey colored scent infused with the purest form of amber, joined by a tenacious refrain of African incense, labdanum, rich woods and a touch of vanilla bean.

Since I had already found a couple of favorites and did not want to wear out my welcome with the SA, I did not try the following. There will have to be another day.

Velvet Gardenia: I wish I’d seen how this differed from other gardenias. It sounds far more interesting.

Velvet Gardenia: A heady floral blend of ripened black gardenia and succulent orange deepens into a heart of jasmine, rose and muguet. Tuberose blends with dark plum, honey and beeswax, finishing with a smooth accord of incense and labdanum.

Bois Rouge: The notes sure sound like something I’d love.

Bois Rouge: This woody oriental opens with a blend of elegant citrus and spice. The luxurious heart reveals cedarwood, patchouli, jasmine and muguet. Sandalwood, vetiver, amber and refined leather are warmed by vanilla and tonka, adding lasting depth and texture.

Neroli Portofino: I don’t usually do well with orange blossom, but this might be different entirely, not to mention it has amber.

Neroli Portofino: A modern intercontinental version of an iconic fragrance theme, Neroli Portofino balances luminous citrus oils and floral notes with amber undertones that awaken the senses and leave a splashy yet substantive impression.

Moss Breches I think I did try this one. It is quite green, which I often love. I was on over load with the ones I liked. I’ll have to try this again first, rather than in the middle.

Moss Breches Dark and complex, this mystical chypre combines fresh wood and warm spice notes with the delicate essence of beeswax absolute. The scent intensifies with the addition of ingredients, such as Moroccan clary sage, Hungarian tarragon, Corsican rosemary and labdanum, patchouli and benzoin.

So there you have it. If you get a chance to try these, by all means do. I found them at Neiman Marcus. Perhaps they are in other places too.

Have you sampled these — or bought any of them?

Karin

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Neil Morris fragrances, part 5 Gotham (end)

Neil Morris spoke to me about this lovely, dark, lush fragrance:

I was walking one October in New York City, which is also called Gotham. It was a particularly warm evening, very dark, almost menacing in an intriguing way … almost intriguingly menacing, it spoke to me of things hiding in the dark … there was a kind of Sherlock Holmes feeling. It was a magical night, going to a couple of different clubs. It was intriguing, looking down dark alley ways — a very unusual night in Gotham City, like a Batman Gotham scent, like a slice of pie, a portion of your life and trying to recapture it.

The notes are:

Top notes: Black Pepper, Yuzu
Mid notes: Rose, Narcissis
Base notes: Amber, Pearl Musk (lovely, creamy as Neil described it), Myrtlewood, Tonka absolute, Labdanum, Russian Leather, Redwood, and Ambergris

This fragrance is as lovely as the notes make it sound. It is creamy and smooth, intriguingly sweet in a dark way. It is not a floral sweetness, but it is rich with the amber and tonka, tempered with leather and woods. The pearl musk is lovely and creamy. It is not a musk that hits you in the face and just keeps on and on.

This fragrance weaves a spell. I left it for last, but it could have been first. Somehow for me, there is even the mingled scent of car exhaust in the air, but this is a good thing. In that respect it reminds me, but lightly, of one of Andy Tauer’s scents, Lonestar Memories, but they aren’t really alike.

Again, the price is $150 for 2 oz of perfume, not edp or edt.

Karin

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Layering that works (fragrance)

I’m a day late in reporting what works when I wear fragrances, since the past two days I’ve reported what I wore the day before not the day of.

I like to layer up my fragrances, starting with one thing in the morning and generally layering to something different as that wears down, and so on until evening. I’m limited by how quickly what I wear dissipates. But that way I can respond to the time of day or my moods or a change of clothes, or whatever.

I’ve hit on some favorites simply by trial and error — one of which is Chanel No 5 with Coco. I now have a mix (1/2 and 1/2) in a spray bottle.

More recently the combination of NU By YVES SAINTLAURENT edp with Shalimar By Guerlain edp was mentioned at POL. Since I had both and rarely wear Shalimar, I thought it would be worth a shot. As you can see the notes are different for Nu edp vs. edt. You can find it quite reasonably. The edp is deeper and richer with more spices and woods. The edt is brighter, but just as long lasting. I’ve tried layering with both. It’s a softer layer with the edp. It is sharper with the edt.

I find the Nu is more dominant than the Shalimar, but the Shalimar warms up the Nu in either form. I think I prefer the layering to either of the single fragrances. At least it is newer feeling, pun intended.

The first time I tried this, I used the edp version of Nu, and I loved it. It was rich and warm. Yesterday, I used the edt version of Nu and it was very incensy. The incense dominated but it was softened by all the other notes. I think this will be one of my favorite ways to enjoy incense. More on that subject later. If you wish to see other things about incense, check out the posts that Helg posted around Easter. And if I’m in an incense sort of mood later, I might report some also.

I ended up layering into a sample of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid last night and that is incense that will knock you off your feet. I want to try comparing that to Le Baiser du Dragon. Maybe later today or next week. Either are a definitely later in the day sort of fragrance, at least now in spring.

Karin

Nu edt notes:
Top note: neroli, bergamot, cardamom
Middle note: White orchids, jasmine, iris absolute
Base note: vanilla, incense absolute, musks

Nu edp notes:
Top Notes: Bergamot
Middle Notes: White Orchid
Base Notes: Incense Absolut, Woody Notes, Spicy Notes

Shalimar notes:
Top Notes: Bergamot, lemon, hesperides
Heart Notes: Jasmine, iris, rose, patchouli, vetiver
Base Notes: Vanilla, incense, opopanax, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather

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Lonestar Memories, Andy Tauer Perfumes

Lonestar Memories is a rich leather scent, intense and multilayered, with a lasting, soft and gentle woody accord. Andy Tauer Perfumes

I was so happy to get a chance to try this fragrance, thanks to a POL’er. Descriptions of it made me wonder how it would do on me. I figured it would either be love-hate. It turns out it is love.

I love the leather of Cabochard by Gres, but Lonestar is completely different. How to describe the difference: Cabochard ultimately comes down to a leathered floral on me, but stays very heady. Lonestar comes down to smokey leather (no floral) on me, that purrs rather than stomps.

So far, it is two for two. I’ve tried two of Tauer’s fragrances and love them both. He is very talented.

Lonestar is supposed to evoke the land, the smoke, the leather of Texas. Along with that is a very strong initial note of gasoline, though not listed in any notes. It reminds me of what I smelled like when I accidentally spilled gas on myself while filling the car.

And it reminds me of the smells around my late father-in-law’s gas station/car dealership. Happy memories for me.

Just now, when spraying it for the second time today, I had the sprayer aimed wrong and got my hand. Memories of mis-filling the gas.

But very shortly on me, within the first few minutes, this high-tech gas scent leaves and underneath are the combined scents of a wood fire and plenty of soft leather.

The little bit I sprayed this morning was still going strong this evening. I had to press my nose to my skin to smell it for a bit of private olfactory jolt, similar to a good cup of coffee. I wasn’t overpowering anyone else. But it is one that would appeal to others, I believe, if I had worn enough to carry out into the room.

I’m going to go hit myself with some more even though I sprized my hand, as I said, about five minutes ago.

The scent grows on you. I’m almost getting a kind of licorice from it. I love it when a fragrance moves like this.

I wondered at first if it would remind me of Bvlgari Black. But Bvlgari Black is not a scent I can wear — it is too brash on me. All burnt rubber, tea and leather — mostly burnt rubber. I picture a woman with a whip.

Lonestar can be worn by either a man or a woman, but I wouldn’t call it unisex. It is much too sensual for that. It is either the sueded leather of a cowboy hat or the smooth and buttery leather of a leather outfit. This scent would be at home wherever you took it.

“… it’s the scent of a lonesome rider, wearing old jeans and leather jacket, after a long day on the horse in the dry woods, preparing his coffee on the open, smoky fire. I want it to be fresh and light, yet lasting and powerful….”

He got it exactly right.

Karin

Green and spicy head notes: Geranium, Carrot seed, Clary sage.
Smokey leathery Heart notes: Birchtar, Cistus, Jasmine, Cedar wood.
Fine woody body notes: Myrrh, Tonka, Vetiver, Sandalwood. Thanks to Prince Barry at POL

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Talkin’ about Jolie Madame and Cabochard

I loved this description:

Jolie Madame is a very intelligent woman who is 100% conscious of her femininity and knows how to charm. She owns 50 lipsticks and always wears stockings. She’s got great legs and will cross them to distract you.

Cabochard is female and happens to be irresistable, but never looks in the mirror because she’s busy reading physics. Her hair’s glossy because she was born that way. When she looks up from her book, your heart nearly stops, her eyes are so beautiful. She doesn’t wear makeup. It wouldn’t occur to her.

Fulltiltredhead at POL, with permission

Jolie Madame 1953 Chypre-Floral
Top Notes: Gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, neroli
Heart Notes: Jasmine, tuberose, rose, jonquil, orris
Base Notes: Patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, castoreum, leather, civet

Cabochard by Gres for Women 3 Piece Set Includes: 1.69 oz Eau de Toilette Spray + 0.10 oz Eau de Parfum Miniature + 1.69 oz Perfumed Body Lotion has been one of my favorites for years. (I chose this set to highlight for you vs. the spray alone because I love the perfume. I’ve sampled the lotion, and it is great too, and often enough to wear alone for the fragrance.) However, I do love and wear makeup. ;p

My comments are on the vintage for both.

I think Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain for Women 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray is more wearable by more people. It is easier to wear, starts off easier and ends up easier.

Cabochard is a lovely fragrance and one I’ve worn a lot at various times. I think I’m lucky to be able to wear it. Not everyone can.

Cabochard 1953 citrus, leather, and tobacco; a refined, woody, arid fragrance.
Top Notes¦Citrus with spice accents
Middle Notes¦Jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, Ylang-Ylang
Base Notes¦Amber, Castoreum, Moss, Musk, Patchouli

”Cabochard” is French for “charmingly persistent”, or “stubborn” perfect for the individualist…
I recently read that it takes 6400 jasmine flowers and 240 roses to create one ounce of Cabochard…

It starts off with a bang…and ends up, on me, delightfully softened, a sweet floralish note comes out (and I don’t usually wear any white florals well) and sits, not demurely, with the leather in harmony.

It’s a kick-a&^ fragrance, one to wear if you want to make a mark on the world that day. And go really light with it, unless it hits the soften point fast. It might overwhelm you otherwise.

It’s not at all like Knowing, but it has that hugeness to it.

Jolie Madame is a little sweeter from the get-go. I’ve only just begun to wear it. It’s interesting to me that they both were created in 1953. I wear the parfum of Cabochard.

How about you?
Do you wear either of these?

Karin

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