Hiris is one of my favorite hot weather fragrances. Introduced in 1999, I only heard about it a couple of years ago. It is considered a semi-oriental, suitable for a man or a woman. It is iris with an H for Hermes.

Top Notes: Orange blossom, rose, coriander seed
Heart Notes: White iris, black iris, cedarwood
Base Notes: Vanilla, ambrette seed, almond wood

There’s been a lot of iris hitting the market in later years, but Hiris stands the test of time. It is both sophisticated and modern. The scent of iris comes not from the flower, which as I remember has very little scent, but from the root or rhizome. Some iris is as cold as ice (notably Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens — which I cannot wear.)

Prada’s Infusion d’Iris brought out in 2007 was similar to Hiris, but it lacked any punch. It got tiresome after a while, because it was very light, with not much movement. I found myself overwhelmed (underwhelmed?) by its sameness.

Top Notes: mandarin, orange blossom,
Heart notes: iris
Base notes: galbanum, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver.

By contrast, Hiris is greener and more earthy. Maybe it’s the vanilla that I like, though I don’t particularly smell it. Maybe it’s the woods in it, in contrast to Prada’s. Whatever — I know I like it better.

For a while I swore off Iris, thinking I had grown tired of it and could no longer wear it, but I find I’m enjoying Hiris again. And my kids think I smell good.

It’s a refreshing fragrance, good for this sticky heat we are having. It brings the temps down, if that is possible. Somehow it reminds me of the time I walked along a park in Innsbruck. The park was filled with tulips and smelled earthy and green, along with the scent coming off the water.

Just what I need for a super hot summer day.

Have you ever worn Hiris? do you love it too?
I know a man could wear this well, but it is not so unisex that it leans sharply masculine. I couldn’t wear it if it did. Do you prefer Prada’s? or not?

Karin

Originally posted 2009-06-14 16:06:43.

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How many iris scents can one person own? Judging from Prada Infusion d’Iris, there is always room for one more, even if the bottle is gigantic.

I fell in love with this on the first spritz. My only complaint is that it is very light. Compared to the original Prada, it seems lighter yet, as Prada packs a wallop. I have not tried layering the two yet, but I bet they would work nicely together.

Top Notes: mandarin, orange blossom,
Heart notes: iris,
Base notes: galbanum, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver.

On me, I don’t smell the orange blossom, which is as well because it doesn’t agree with me. It begins with iris and mandarin, the iris lasting as it gradually comes down to the base notes and ending with a sigh (or a punch, depending on how many times I’ve layered it) of woods and iris. I’ve re-sprayed more than once in a day, which is unusual for me, liking it each time through the stages. Tonight, I think I will layer Prada into it just for kicks.

I don’t notice any sillage after the first few minutes, and when it is finally really settled down, I can catch a whiff only if I sniff where I sprayed. I can see how it is possible to go through the bottle far more quickly than I usually go through a bottle.

I tried it first in a hot, dry climate. I live in a hot, humid climate. The feel I get of it is not a spring fragrance, but one that gives me a hint of autumn in a climate that has no autumn. It is perfect for this beginning of fall period in which we have no true fall. I’m guessing different notes would pull out if it were spring…or the notes would linger differently because of the scent already present in the air.

This perfume does not mimic any current trends in perfumery. It does not follow any olfactory or descriptive stereotypes of what a woman should smell like, but rather expresses itself through its contrast between a great freshness and apparent lightness and a type of tender veil, sensual and strong, that envelops the body and the clothing of the woman who wears [it]. Daniela Andrier, the nose, who worked with Miuccia Prada over a two-year period.

It could as easily be worn by a man as a woman. The bottle is elegant and hefty, even masculine without it looking like it were made exclusively for a man. Really, I hardly think masculine or feminine applies to many fragrances anymore. They are crossing over nicely. If it smells great on you, wear it!

This fragrance has a feel of casual elegance to me. I should dress up a bit and take a tramp in the woods. I definitely would do it, if there were woods near me, as you know I love trees.

Have you tried this? How does it wear on you?

Karin

Daniela Andrier fragrances that have won Fifi awards: Lancome Attraction (European Fifi, 2003), Armani Prive Pierre de Lune (2006). See a very brief profile of Daniela Andrier on the Lancome website. Perfumes created by Daniela Andrier include:

Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani He (1997)
Giorgio Armani Prive Pierre de Lune (2004)
Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002)
Gucci Rush for men (with Antoine Maisondieu)
Guerlain Angelique Noire (2005)
Lancome Attraction (2003, with Christian Biecher)
La Perla Io La Perla (1995)
Prada Amber Pour Homme (2006)
Valentino Very Valentino (1998)
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (reformulation, 2003) [I will attribute this to the website I got it from when I figure out where it was. I had it in my files.]

Originally posted 2007-09-13 10:33:01.

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I must have been sleeping whenever this fragrance was discussed, because I only happened upon mention of it the other day when I was surfing for decants and samples. It seems to be one that is either liked or not — there’s no happy medium.

And it’s important to know that there is nothing remotely like Vol de Nuit in this fragrance except for borrowing the name.

What I’ve noticed over time is that if you can wear Mitsouko or Vol de Nuit — and like them — then you might not like L’Heure Bleu or vice versa. That might be a way you could determine if you would like this or not, short of ordering a small sample.

I like Vol De Nuit a lot, and often layer it up as the notes soften during the day, starting with Chant d’Aromes, passing through Chamade or Mitsouko or both, and ending with Vol de Nuit at night, so I thought I’d like to give this a shot.

LHB is definitely not one of my faves, but I wear it occasionally.

I received my sample in today’s mail and immediately sniffed and put some on my wrist.

The notes are peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.

And while these notes are common to a lot of Guerlain fragrances, they are put together in a different way in this one. I don’t get any peach at all — it isn’t a bit like Femme by Rochas, for example. And it isn’t a chypre at all.

On me, it starts out aldehydic with lots of powdery overtures. As that softens, it moves into a more animalic phase which has been described as smelling of sweat (which I do not get) or marine (salty, I’m guessing — I do get a bit of salt in it). Underneath it all is iris, almost as sweet as in Iris Ganache, without the chocolate that puts it into the too sweet category for me. It reminds me of the iris in Prada Infusion d’Iris. In the drydown I get amber and woods, but no vanilla. It’s there, but so minute as not to be particularly discernible.

So, there you have it. I will try it in a heavier dose a bit later today to see how that develops and compare it to Guet-Apens/Attrape-Coeur, which I have a bit of. It has also been compared to 31 Rue Cambon by Chanel, which I have never smelled. If you have that one, you might try comparing and let me know.

Vol de Nuit Evasion has been available in airport stores. You can also find it at ThePerfumedCourt.

Karin

Originally posted 2008-06-20 13:30:42.

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Madame Rochas was introduced in 1960. It used to be one of my favorites for spring and summer. It’s a floral aldehyde, but it has more zing than Chanel No. 5. The vintage fragrance was potent, but not over-powering. The modern version is different than the vintage — no wonder that whenever on whatever rare occasions I found it and spritzed it, it wasn’t me.

Original:
Top Notes: Hyacinth, neroli, aldehydes, greens, lemon
Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris, lily of the valley, violet, orris, narcissus, tuberose
Base Notes: Amber, cedarwood, sandalwood, moss, vetiver, musk, tonka bean

Well, I didn’t think it was me for a long time. I gave it a couple of decades long break. It had been one of the bottles I had felt I’d had to use up before I could buy another one. Doing that, I always really tired of it. Ha! if I hadn’t done that, I’d have my own vintage bottle, and it would still be in good scent condition.

Sometime in the last year I found vintage spray parfum on ebay, minus the decorative outer case/bottle. Never having worn the perfume, only the edt (I think) version which was as strong as edp, I thought I’d spring for it, if it were inexpensive enough, which it turned out to be. It certainly smelled fine, but again it wasn’t me. I hated to use it up as room spray! So, I decided to wait…and try again.

Today with spring in the offing, loads of wind and plenty of sun, it just felt like a Mme Rochas kind of day. Plus it conjures up plenty of happy memories and moments. No sense whatsoever wearing anything with bad vibes, LOL!

Yep, I was right. Given the right atmosphere, it is just as beautiful, rich and full-bodied as it ever was, complete with lovely woods.

How to describe it….similar to Chamade in some respects, but brighter. Heavy on rose and jasmine but blended into the woods and iris so it has a green aspect to it. There is more moss in the base than there is musk, which is a good thing for me. I picture myself walking through the woods towards a companion seeing bits of bright green spring grass and moss, with sunlight dappling through the trees, after a rain or with dew or mist on the ground. Each of those things bring me joy; having them together is a bonus.

It is long lasting and makes you happy. What more could you want! I’m glad it worked today.

Do you wear it? have you ever worn it? Why, oh why, do they tweak with perfection!

Karin

Originally posted 2007-04-16 11:54:13.

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Love…don’t be shy…was the fragrance I thought I preferred when I smelled it on each of my two previous trips to Vegas (the only access I have to Kilian fragrances.) It didn’t surprise me that I loved it again.

I generally give fragrance several tries before I commit, because I find that sometimes they are scrubbers on me, when I had thought they were not.

Love…don’t be shy is another play on words. If you wish to find or experience love, you have to put yourself out there. Don’t be shy. Risk a little. (Maybe that would be a good name for one of his fragrances.) Or, express your love, don’t hold back. To have love, you must give love.

Here’s the description from the insert booklet:

L’Oeuvre Noire [in English, Black Masterpiece], a collection of 10 fragrances composed with the most expensive and rarest essential oils. A deca aroma that revolves around three themes: Love and its prohibitions. The artificial paradises. The temptations.

And here’s a quote from that same insert:

Perfume should be the essential in the excessive. Kilian Hennessy

I think I’d love to sit down and chat with him. …essential in the excessive — isn’t that an interesting way to describe one of the pleasures of life!

And here’s another quote I like of his:

Perfume is a messenger that opens a thousand doors in the memory. Kilian Hennessy

I think we can both create and recreate memories with perfume. All I have to do is smell a certain fragrance to feel once again that someone I knew is near, though she is no longer living. She created an aura with fragrance. I prefer my aura to be lighter, but nonetheless there. She wore hers too heavily. I don’t think that is possible with these. They have a cap on how strong they are.

Created by perfumer Calice Becker, here are the notes:

Top notes: Marshmallow, Neroli
Heart notes: Sambac Jasmine with Rose and Iris
Base notes: vanilla and musk.

This is not a dreckly sweet marshmallow concoction, but rather mature and intoxicating. Again, a bit boozy, definitely intoxicating. The vanilla is not sweet. It’s not like Shalimar; no, this is darker.

I was off-put by Iris after Guerlain’s Iris Ganache. I might have steered away from this one after that one. But this is what I hoped IG would be, even though descriptions didn’t necessarily match my idea.

Again, on me, this is a deeply resinous fragrance. It is no Mariah Carey, and it certainly is not Pink Sugar. It’s a night time fragrance suitable for day time. It insinuates rather than shouting. It isn’t shy, but it doesn’t hit you over the head — those are fragrance types I prefer not to wear. I believe it would layer well with any other Kilian fragrance. It is very smooth, but it also ruffles. This is a fragrance for a woman who knows her mind.

Do you wear it? Have you tried it?

You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.

Karin

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I often layer my scents, as anyone who knows me will find out. I prefer, if possible, not to wear a scent that is so heavy or long-lasting that I have to wear only it for the entire day. I don’t mind changing every couple of hours or morning, afternoon, evening, when a fragrance winds down.

Recently I was looking for something to cut the strength of the never-ending Iris Ganache from Guerlain. Guerlain is probably one of my favorite houses.

I like Iris and I like Chocolate, but something about this fragrance was not working for me. I don’t care for the chocolate note in this one, because it doesn’t smell rich enough, and it makes the Iris unbearably sweet on me — and to top it off, on me anyway, the Iris just keeps on trucking and never softening down.

So I sold some decants to make me feel better about a bad buy. (I bought it on the strength of recs from folks who dearly loved it. I do not have a Guerlain store near me in which to smell it before I bought it.) I like spicy, oriental fragrances, but while this one has cinnamon and patchouli, it only smells like sweet Iris. It wasn’t oriental at all.

Fragrance notes: Vanilla, Cinnamon, Bergamot, Patchouli, White musks, Cedar, iris, chocolate

The Charnels Elixirs collection includes another chocolate, Gourmand Coquin, that is definitely better on me, but I didn’t need two so close to each other. And frankly I was worried that it might be too reminiscent of the IG.

Gourmand Coquin notes: black pepper, rose, rum, chocolate.
black peppercorns and a trickle of chocolate. A dash of rum, and the spice and cocoa bean

When I was at the Guerlain store in the Palazzo in Las Vegas, all of us had fun trying to figure out something that would work to cut the Iris in Iris Ganache. Anything that seemed to work, worked only for about 90 seconds before the Iris came through with a bang and overwhelmed anything else that was with it.

After I was home, Claire Young (who had waited on me) shared a couple of other things he had tried, but when I tried it, the Iris was still overwhelming.

When I layer, with a few exceptions, but especially with Guerlains, I generally stay with the house. (Though I might not with a few exclusive Chanels. They might layer with a different house.) I thought, hmmmm, what do I have on hand that might possibly work?

And I thought what about L’Instant for men? Bingo, it was a go!

FRAGRANCE NOTES – Citrus, Star Anise Crystals, Peppery Elemi from the Philippines, Jasmine petals, Mysore Sandalwood, Lapsang Tea, Bitter Cocoa beans, Hibiscus seeds, Indonesian Patchouli flowers.

It was really exciting to find something that would make this fragrance wearable for me. And the two together are better than they are apart. Even though it was long wearing, it had some extra panache, so I didn’t tire of it.

I shared this with Claire. He tried it the next day, and agreed that it worked very well for him too.

If you have one or the other, or both, you might try layering the two, especially if you are near a store that carries both, and you only have one. You might have another find in your repertoire. And if you have both in your stash, you now have a third.

Let me know what you think!

I can’t stress enough how helpful the Palazzo Guerlain store is. They are top notch in customer service and follow up. They ship for free and keep in touch after you are gone. Make them your store of choice.

You can reach them at (702) 732-7008 or email them at GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com. Ask for Claire (he’s on vacation right now) and tell them that Karin sent you. Kyle was also a help with layering this one — and Jorganne is the manager.

Karin

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I have been remiss in reviewing this scent. I’ve had it now for a couple of weeks because a generous POL’er shared some with me. I have no excuse not to have reviewed it sooner, or expressed my thanks in this way, but it is summer and life is in the way.

I probably have more Guerlain fragrances than any other house. I still remember how vintage Shalimar smelled when I wore it in the dead of winter, snow on the ground, the scent of fireplaces in the air. It was amazing. (A friend told me that it smelled best on her when she was still smoking — the mix of the perfume with tobacco was intoxicating.) I’ve moved past this scent, though I still like it on occasion.

I had high hopes for Sous le Vent!

This is one that I would like to spritz more heavily to see how it really does. I’m being wildly cautious, making my sample last, but giving it more than one try.

The notes are:
Notes: lavender, tarragon, basilic, citrus, carnation, oakmoss, iris, woods, patchouli. [It is said to be a leathery chypre.]

Sous le Vent came out originally in 1933 and was created for (or worn by) Joséphine Baker who would drench herself in the luxury of it. It is easy to see how one could drench oneself, as it is not over powering.

Some say it smells heavily of lavender. I’m very grateful I don’t smell (much) lavender on me, because it isn’t one of my favorites.

On me, the predominant over-all feel is salt or salty leather. This salty-air feeling gives the impression of the trade winds blowing near an ocean getaway. I am ready to go! This contributes to a dry feeling. It’s a place I’d like to visit, compared to my hot and humid area, even if we do get breezes.

The iris is not powdery. The patchouli is a whisper; it is not heavy. I had hoped to smell more of the tarragon, which is a spice I truly love — and I love the smell of tarragon.

The question for me, which has yet to be settled, is if this fragrance on me has too much of a masculine feel to it. Perhaps that is the lavender which I sense only as a periphery, a note that gets me in trouble if it predominates. If this is the scent that wafts its way through the whole, I will have to pass, but if it is dry, salty, and airy it would have a place in my scent lineup. Time will tell!

Do you love it? Have you smelled it or worn it?

Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. He’ll take good care of you. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.

Tell them I sent you!

Karin

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Between L’artisan and Serge Lutens were testers from The Different Company. Since I love Bois d’Iris, I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to at least try one of them.

Bois d’Iris notes
iris (iris pallida aka “the Fastuous” or iris florentina), vetiver, bergamot, cedar wood, narcissus, geranium, musk

I decided to sample Un Parfum des Sens et Bois as much because I like woodsy notes as that I like several of Serge Lutens ‘Bois’ fragrances.

Un Parfum des Sens et Bois notes
Chinese Cedarwood, White Violet, Black Pepper, Elemi, Ginger, Patchouli, Vervain, Bergamot, and Incense.

Of the ones I tried, this was not on my list of favorites. It was more pungent than it was sweet or spicy. The predominate notes on me were pepper, ginger and incense. It was more masculine than I usually wear, and I would love to smell it on a man.

So there you have it, three companies sampled in one day. At least two that were bottle worthy. I might order decants before I get down to smell these in person again. I wish I had them tonight!

Karin

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Moving on to Serge Lutens from L’artisan:

Ahhhh… Oh my. This is the first time I’ve seen so many Lutens fragrances in one place since I was in Paris. On that trip I was overwhelmed by the choices, didn’t really know the offerings, and felt confused enough not to make a choice. Then a generous POL’er (you know who you are) sent me from Europe a wonderful selection of sample vials so that I could really try them at my leisure. I went on to order several decants and a couple of partial bottles.

This week I sampled Rousse, Datura Noir, and Miel de Bois.

Miel de Bois is practically straight honey. I prefer L’Occitane’s Honey and Lemon which has less honey predominating:

Miel de Bois:
Notes of honey and woods with top notes of ebony, gaiac and oak wood, middle notes of honey and bottom notes of beeswax, iris and hawthorn.

Honey and Lemon:
lemon and citrus fruit, golden honey, vanilla and caramel scents.

I liked this Datura Noir quite a bit, but I have Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Secrete Datura* and while not the same, it gave me pause to think of getting this one. I look forward to putting it on skin again, and comparing it to SD.

Datura Noir

Notes of myrrh, bitter almond, tonka bean, and musk, heliotrope, mandarin, lemon flower, and tuberose, vanilla, coconut oil, and apricot.

My favorite of what I tried was Rousse . I fell in love with this one, but I would want to sample it comparing it to Fou d’Absinthe on my next trip, unless I simply decide to bite the bullet and get both. Rousse was created by Chris Sheldrake. Cinnamon is one of my favorite spices, so to have it in a fragrance that is more than gourmand, is a delight.

I expected it to be like Chypre Rouge, which I find masculine, but it is not. Rousse is certainly wearable by a man; it is equally wearable for me.

Rousse
notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.

Now, I would be completely happy concerning fragrance if I had one or both of the ones I loved — but then would I be on the hunt for more? Yes, probably, but I’ve resigned myself to the knowledge that there are so many new offerings that it is impossible to test all of them. I must be satisfied with the few.

There were a couple Lutens I didn’t care for, but I didn’t write their names on the cards, and I am having trouble recognizing the names as I look for them, so I will have to have an addendum when I sample them again.

Karin

Secrete Datura’s notes:

Notes: Datura, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Chocolate

Top: intermingles the lily, heliotrope and lemon.
Mid: jasmin, honeysickle, wallflower and orange blossom,
base: iris, vanilla, chocolate, and sandalwood.

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I promised yesterday that I would compare these two.

I came across a site where you can compare fragrances. If you like one, what else might you like (or vice versa.) You can see it here.

When I went there, while waiting for my sample of VdNE to arrive, I was surprised to find they listed VdNE like this:

VOL DE NUIT EVASION 2007 (ATTRAPE-COEUR)

I had a bit of AC, so I wondered if I had simply bought the same thing with a new name. But checking further, the answer was no, these are two different fragrances.

However, when I wear them, comparing them, as I did yesterday afternoon and again today, there isn’t enough difference in the two of them on me to warrant having both, unless I wanted one for daytime and one for evening.

The notes for VdNE are [Fragrance Family - oriental woody] : peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.

The notes for AC/GA are [Fragrance Family - Floral, Amber, Musk]:
Top: a burst of spell binding green notes
Heart: generous, floral/fruity notes (rose, jasmine, peach and tuberose)
Base: leather, powdery and dry wood notes (Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla and Musk)

or: green, fruity, rose, jasmine, peach, tuberose, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, leather.

It’s only fair to say that those who love AC/GA do not, for the most part, like VdNE. I am testing vials; I am not spraying, so there is very little sillage and I have to smell up close to smell either one.

I asked all 3 of my girls to smell both fragrances on me several times. Without exception, if they smelled AC/GA (or VdNE) first, they could not smell the other one. (I had no problem.)

AC/GA is much richer and deeper. College Girl said it smelled more musky. I don’t notice that at all particularly. I notice the leather and amber in it, especially the amber. The leather is completely wearable. It is not musty. It certainly smells very good. VdNE is lighter and more powdery, though both have some powder essence to them.

I asked CG again just now which she preferred on me. I have not reapplied since this morning.

She smelled VdNE first, then AC/GA. She said she preferred VdNE, “the deeper one.” I said, “No, the other is deeper.” She said, “Then VdNE has lasted longer.” I think it is again, because she smelled the one first. To me, AC/GA is the deeper, fuller, more exotic one, and has lasted longer. But I like them both. Earlier in the day, my younger girls picked VdNE because it was “lighter.”

There you have it. It appears to be a toss up, on me. I would think a man would prefer to wear AC/GA. But hey, give both a try! As I said, I like them both, and I would love to drench myself in spray to get a feeling for when they have heavier sillage.

AC costs EUR 130 for 125 ml. VdNE (edt) is EUR 46 for 50 ml.

Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.

Tell them I sent you!

Karin

Addendum: the plot thickens! Evidently, according to French Guerlain sources, VdNE is the edt version of AC/GA edp version. Why on earth would they not keep the same name, AC/GA! No wonder they smell so similar, but one is lighter.

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I was pleasantly surprised by Burberry The Beat when I sampled it last night. It was, on me, basically what I had hoped all the other Burberry incarnations would be. It is called a sparkling woody floral scent.

In paper scent sampling they tag it with Where attitude meets energy. I dunno about that, but I could use some of both, so it’s not a bad moniker tag.

The notes are:

Ceylon tea, iris accord, and bluebell; also bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, mandarin, white musk, vetiver and cedarwood.

What I find interesting on me is that it feels slightly vanilla-y, but it doesn’t move into the artificiality that the other Burberrys do on me. I don’t catch any tea in it. I always like iris, which might be what gives it a sparkle. Normally I’m not particularly into pink pepper, but I love vetiver and cedarwood, also mandarin and bergamot (see my earlier reviews on mandarin scents — I’m about to revisit wearing them with spring on the corner.)

It certainly is worth a spritz or two or three. I really spritzed myself once I was pretty sure it was going to be wearable for me. Even at full blast it wasn’t too much and didn’t head to artificiality. I think it has definite possibilities for spring and summer.

Try it if you are near a bottle. Speaking of the bottle, it is one of my favorites of their bottles. Something about it appeals to me. It’s not entirely masculine, but it is reminiscent of a flask, with rounded edges.

Karin

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Today’s posting is a joint effort by Ida (Chaya), Elena (Helg), and me. Thanks to both perfumistas for writing!

I asked them to speak to the perfume version of this, as I have not tried it.

>>>>>>>>>

Le Baiser Du Dragon By Cartier , or Kiss of the Dragon, or Dragon’s Kiss, alternatively Dragon’s Breath, is about what you would imagine from the name. It is not warm and fuzzy, but it is warm. It is the temptation of an adult lover. It is not the kiss of innocence.

On me, it is both smoky and incensy, though neither note is listed. I have smelled at least two fragrances in which the smokiness smelled like burnt ashes, which is a negative to me in a fragrance, but this smokiness reminds me of the smoldering look of smoky eyes, a come-hither from the dragon…

Top notes: bitter almond, neroli orange, and gardenia. Heart notes: Woody, powdery: iris, cedar, and muskomes… Earthy base notes of vetiver, patchouli, and benzoin.

This one is another beautiful bottle, with Chinese overtones. In China, of course, the dragon stands for many positive things, unlike Biblical references, and once was the symbol for the emperor. It is one of the signs for the Chinese Zodiac. No one knows the origins of the Chinese dragon, but it likely pre-dates written history. It shows up in art, songs, poetry and literature, as well as architecture.

I bought it as much for the Chinese influence (my youngest two daughters are from China) as I did for the fragrance.

The Chinese dragon (spelled Long in transliteration), is a mythical Chinese creature that also appears in other East Asian cultures, and is also sometimes called the Oriental (or Eastern) dragon. Depicted as a long, snake-like creature with four claws, in contrast to the Western dragon which stands on two legs and which is usually portrayed as evil, it has long been a potent symbol of auspicious power in Chinese folklore and art. Chinese dragons control water in an agricultural water-driven nation. This is the contrast of the western dragon, which controls fire to show its mythical power. The dragon is also the embodiment of the concept of yang (male) and associated with the weather as the bringer of rain and water in general. Its female counterpart is the Chinese phoenix. wikipedia

I chose to purchase the edp. Right now, I can’t remember if they even had a tester of the parfum. I know I chose the edp over the edt, and there must have been a good reason, I just don’t know what it was. Many of my Guerlain’s, I have in edt and in parfum, not the edp, so I’m not an edp-purist by any means.

I first tried this — and tried it and re-tried it — on an Alaskan cruise. I wondered if it would smell the same, taken out of the ship, away from the sea air and the cold…into the heavy heat of tropics. I’m wearing it today in 98 degree weather. I don’t notice that I love it more, or less, depending on if it is cold. It’s my mood. Maybe if I’m in a cold mood, this is the right fragrance, or conversely, if I’m warm and want to be cooler. It’s a chameleon. It is classified as an Oriental fragrance, but it is not like Opium or Obsession, no, no, no, it is not sweetly warm and spicy, this one has a kick to it.

At first spritz, it blasts away at me with a kind of interesting bitterness, that is the incensy/smoky time of it (it is definitely not sweet almond)…then it softens down to something sweet and patchouli-y but with a twist. On the cruise, I’d find I couldn’t smell it, and could barely smell it if I put my nose to my arm. Then, I’d re-spritz it again, passing through the perfume shop to retry it. And, of course, because the rooms were huge, the perfume was never too large for the space. This is one my family likes on me, though no one ever compliments without my asking.

Today, I’m not having any trouble smelling it. If I want to renew the first blitz, I re-spritz, then let it soften again. If I want the softness to reign, I do not respritz. (Interestingly enough, the only other fragrance that I know of that I cannot smell at all is Passage D’Enfer by L’Artisan. I can wear others of their fragrances, but not Passage. Those that like it describe it in terms similar to Dragon, so there might be a common note in them that makes them difficult for me to smell.)

I’m sure most people would say to wear it only at night, but what fun is that! If you can carry it off, wear it (or if the Dragon can carry you away, fly with it)…Let your imagination take flight.

Karin

Chaya adds:

Le Baiser Du Dragon, by Cartier, is one of those fragrances that possesses a different character in the parfum. My supposition would be that it was originally created as one, and that
the other forms followed in turn…

I base this on one of the lessons the amazing Liz Zorn** taught me, a few months back. She said that each fragrance is created by the perfumer with a particular strength or form in mind; that is why, when one experiences something that really ’sings’ , it was likely created for that purpose, originally.

This would explain why many eschew all but the parfum in Baiser. For one thing, the wearer rapidly becomes anosmic, even though the notes listed are potent in their raw forms. For another, the notes aren’t necessarily situated where you’d normally expect to find them.

Top: Neroli, Gardenia, Amaretto accord
Heart: Cedar, Iris
Base : Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Benzoin

The opening is fleeting, with neroli barely nodding, and gardenia lasting a bit longer…Amaretto accord? Slightly almondy bitter/sweet, the heart lasts only a few beats as well. We are more accustomed to having iris and gardenia in the middle, but not cedar- and it’s pretty hard to find that. Sometimes you pick up more patch, sometimes more vetiver- but the base is very smooth, a satiny base.

Dragon is a strange choice of appellation. This is a smoky whisper, not dragon breath. Rather snuggly, I find. [Dragons are supposed to represent the union of Heaven and Earth, so, in that sense, it's plausible] The unctuous body cream makes this last a lot longer- layering it helps a lot.

-I/C

** who is Liz Zorn?

Liz Zorn is an indie perfumer of great talent, from Ohio- Parfume Moderne was the name of her store- now it’s called Liz Zorn Perfumes. She is extremely generous about sharing information- like Ayala Sender, Anya Mc Coy, and Jenny van Veenen [or Andy Tauer]. An Aquarian with a dry sense of humor. I love her. I/C

Now I have to hunt up more about her! Karin

And Helg/Elena weighs in:

When dragons and kisses mix, courtesy of jeweler par excellence Cartier, the red Chinese-style box resembling a calligraphy set reveals a prism of notes that combine to make a smooth oriental of unexpected elegance and poise.

The bottle alone with the single black wick immersed into the ambery fluid as a sketchy line amidst a Chinese ideogram is enough to captivate the fantasy.

Contrary to its name that would suggest a pyrocaustic feral gust of sulphur Le Baiser du Dragon (=the dragon’s kiss) in parfum concentration reveals a calculated whisper of deep and velvety tones humming at a low, seductive frequency. In contrast to eau de parfum which explores the quite bitter notes of almond contrapuntal to amber and cedar, in parfum there is no pronounced bitterness but only sublime smoothness and opulence.

The earthiness of wood and vetiver project immediately from the skin allied to sweet ambery tonalities that do not reveal the floral heart too much. Indeed neither is there a distinct top nor heart as proclaimed by official notes that list neroli, gardenia and iris. Instead I would hazard the statement that a candied hesperide peel accord is hiding under the resiny richness providing the element of classicism in the oriental tradition and offering the slightly piquant much needed “air” that a rich perfume would require.

As the parfum dries onto skin there is sensuality, smokiness, and a flight of fancy on a red carpet that transports you to mystical places where benzoin is burned in chalices. Close your eyes and inhale deeply, knowing that your lips will not get scorched by the fiery kiss.

Thanks again to both!
Karin

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Guerlain’s fifth fragrance in the niche L’Art et la Matière collection is Iris Ganache. The others are Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare, Angelique Noire, and Bois d’Armenie.

Thierry Wasser was the nose for IG, as well as such diverse fragrances as Calvin Klein Truth (with Jacques Cavallier and Alberto Morillas), Gres Caline (2005), Lancome Hypnose (2005, with Annick Menardo), Mary Kay Domain (2000) and many others.

Sometimes I choose a fragrance by the nose; other times I choose by the house or the notes. I’m not sure I would have chosen by the nose this time, as others of his fragrances I like well enough, but do not wear. Generally, I do love the older Guerlains. I cannot wear Insolence, for example. So based on the notes, the house, and what others had said, I gave it a try.

Iris Ganache includes note of bergamot, iris butter, white chocolate, floral notes, cinnamon, patchouli, white musks, cedarwood and vanilla.

It has been described as either classically Guerlain or as pleasant chocolate powder. I hoped for the former. Some chocolates smell artificial to me. And I didn’t care for the white chocolate in Bvlgari’s Omnia (I can’t smell it). I do love iris. So….I jumped in the deep end and hoped for the best.

I have never had ganache, a mixture of chocolate and cream, that I know of, so I can’t compare it to that.

As usual, when I first try a new fragrance, baring a scent strip, I don’t spritz very much, just in case it is a scrubber on me. I did not respray as the day moved on, but let it dry down for several hours to see the progression.

It was elegant, but somewhat off-putting to me. I think I might have been getting a hint of Hypnose in it, though the notes wouldn’t lead you to think it. I could live with it, but didn’t know if I’d reach for it very much. Because I had heard that a wearer of IG received compliments many hours later, I specifically did not respray as I didn’t want to mess up the possibility of that.

IG has also been compared to L’Heure Bleu, another fragrance that I can only wear carefully and in certain formulations. Of the two, I prefer IG.

Today, on my second try, I decided to spritz more, as I knew how it progressed on me. This time it is much lovelier. It is one of those fragrances that do better if you spritz more, not less. I may even spritz again, but haven’t decided on that yet, to see what that would do. It’s been on for about 4 hours. I can still smell it, if I get my nose close to my arm.

In my thought, I am sitting on the sidewalk in Paris eating chocolate with a cup of tea, enjoying the ambiance of the day and the people passing by, while a soft rain falls. It is a little slice of heaven. If I were really there, I’d amble on down to the 68, Champs Elysées Guerlain flagship store to try the other L’Art et la Matière fragrances et al.

IG is also available at Bergdorf Goodman. $200 for 2.5 oz edp.

Have you tried IG?

ps I did reapply, and it added lushness. I may just do it again later. For those of you who apply lavishly, you would know this already. I tend to be sparse as a fragrance can overwhelm me up close and personal.

Karin

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I’m a day late in reporting what works when I wear fragrances, since the past two days I’ve reported what I wore the day before not the day of.

I like to layer up my fragrances, starting with one thing in the morning and generally layering to something different as that wears down, and so on until evening. I’m limited by how quickly what I wear dissipates. But that way I can respond to the time of day or my moods or a change of clothes, or whatever.

I’ve hit on some favorites simply by trial and error — one of which is Chanel No 5 with Coco. I now have a mix (1/2 and 1/2) in a spray bottle.

More recently the combination of NU By YVES SAINTLAURENT edp with Shalimar By Guerlain edp was mentioned at POL. Since I had both and rarely wear Shalimar, I thought it would be worth a shot. As you can see the notes are different for Nu edp vs. edt. You can find it quite reasonably. The edp is deeper and richer with more spices and woods. The edt is brighter, but just as long lasting. I’ve tried layering with both. It’s a softer layer with the edp. It is sharper with the edt.

I find the Nu is more dominant than the Shalimar, but the Shalimar warms up the Nu in either form. I think I prefer the layering to either of the single fragrances. At least it is newer feeling, pun intended.

The first time I tried this, I used the edp version of Nu, and I loved it. It was rich and warm. Yesterday, I used the edt version of Nu and it was very incensy. The incense dominated but it was softened by all the other notes. I think this will be one of my favorite ways to enjoy incense. More on that subject later. If you wish to see other things about incense, check out the posts that Helg posted around Easter. And if I’m in an incense sort of mood later, I might report some also.

I ended up layering into a sample of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid last night and that is incense that will knock you off your feet. I want to try comparing that to Le Baiser du Dragon. Maybe later today or next week. Either are a definitely later in the day sort of fragrance, at least now in spring.

Karin

Nu edt notes:
Top note: neroli, bergamot, cardamom
Middle note: White orchids, jasmine, iris absolute
Base note: vanilla, incense absolute, musks

Nu edp notes:
Top Notes: Bergamot
Middle Notes: White Orchid
Base Notes: Incense Absolut, Woody Notes, Spicy Notes

Shalimar notes:
Top Notes: Bergamot, lemon, hesperides
Heart Notes: Jasmine, iris, rose, patchouli, vetiver
Base Notes: Vanilla, incense, opopanax, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather

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