Chocolate Amere by Il Profumo $135 for 100 ml or $3 for .7 ml at Lucky Scent is chocolate the way it ought to be done.

Lucky Scent carries 16 Il Profumo fragrances.

It is supposed to be for men, but seriously, it's great for women too. It is not like L'Instant for Men, which also has some chocolate. It is more incensy and less sharp.

Do you remember how much I disliked Iris Ganache on me? -- that it was the sort of chocolate scent I didn't care for and way too sweet? Ditto for the Chocolate Base Note from Creative Scentualization...

Chocolate Amere, by contrast, is a semi-dry, almost dark chocolate scent. I'm sure it is the sandalwood and incense that takes it to a new dimension.

Chocolate Amere Notes: galbanum, nutmeg, ginger, flowers, cocoa, sandalwood, incense.

L'Instant for men notes: woody with jasmine, citrus and star anise, then hibiscus, patchouli, sandalwood, lapsang tea and bitter cacao bean.

I find Chocolate Amere a bit sweeter than L'Instant for men. The chocolate is more apparent. Bookgirl pronounces it, "Delicious!" She doesn't care for L'Instant for men.

I find both fragrances similar. She doesn't see any similarities at all. The difference for me is the Patchouli in L'Instant for men. This is a drier Patchouli, not a sweet patchouli, but as it softens, it gets sweeter from the other notes.

Do you wear either of these?
What do you think? I have to be in the mood to wear L'Instant for men, and it has to soften for me to really like it on me. Chocolate Amere creates a mood, is wearable from the beginning, and might even keep me from chocolate, not a bad thing altogether.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

Originally posted 2009-09-27 08:25:30.

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Back to testing the samples I received from a POLer. For the past couple of days I've compared Patchouli by M. Micallef $200 for 100 ml or $4 for .7 ml at Lucky Scent on my right wrist to Ambra Nera on my left. That review will follow.

Notes violet leaves, orris, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, leather, balsam tolu, benzoin, cistus, vanilla

This is one of the nicest Patchoulis around. Whoa, I really like it. It is sweet, not dry, patchouli. My overall impression is sweet patchouli and tolu. If you have smelled Ormande Jayne's Tolu you can have a pretty good idea of what this one smells like.

Ormande Jayne Tolu
Top: Juniper berry, orange blossom and clary sage
Heart: Orchid, Moroccan rose and muguet
Base: Tolu, tonka bean, golden frankincense and amber

I'm sure all that earthy, woody undertone, touched with violet (which some people say they get in the beginning, but I really don't smell that) serves to enrich the patchouli.

Have you tried this one?
Some people say it is their favorite.

What I particularly like is that it doesn't smell artificial. It is comforting and easy to wear. Plus a very little goes a long way. I used literally one drop and it is enveloping. It is much stronger than Ambra Nera.

I had Book Girl smell them both, and she liked them both. I had her smell the Ambra Nera first so she would be able to smell it.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com
don't take my whole posts

Originally posted 2009-10-07 07:58:31.

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One ought, every day at least, to hear a little song, read a good poem, see a fine picture and, if it were possible, speak a few reasonable words. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, poet, dramatist, novelist, and philosopher (1749-1832)

I think I live by this philosophy. I bring into my life the elements I need for happiness, things of beauty.

Even fragrance exists outside the bare utility of life. It adds to life; it does not subtract. Recently someone remarked that because her month had been hectic, stressful and hard, she chose to wear scents that she felt would anchor her when dealing with the issues -- scents that felt either grounding or comforting. I thought that was very astute. I also choose my scents by how I feel on a particular day. Her remarks made me think again of the mood altering effects of perfumes. We can change the way we feel by the elements we bring into our days.

And when I am happy, it brings happiness not only into my experience, but lightens those who know me.

Contrast this to the following:

One of the indictments of civilizations is that happiness and intelligence are so rarely found in the same person. -William Feather, author, editor and publisher (1889-1981)

What is happiness, anyway? I believe it exists entwined in the rest of life, including intelligence, which presumably would lead us to the things that bring us happiness, such as Goethe suggested.

Perhaps happiness is also entwined with a degree of solution-thinking. If we believe that a solution exists or could be brought to bear upon the difficulties we face or see, then we are less apt to sink into despair. I don't have to be the one to find a particular solution. It may be enough for me to acknowledge that a solution can be found. I like to think this makes it easier for the one who is searching for a solution to find it.

I don't think happiness is ignoring the world. Rather it is refocusing on what is beautiful in the world.

What brings you happiness? Do you make a conscious effort to include more in your life?

Karin

Originally posted 2007-03-12 07:23:39.

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Bois D'Orage (AKA French Lover -- which may be sweeter and a little tobacco-y) (or Thunder Wood -- Malle flier) [or better yet: Thunderstorm Warning -- that's the sense I get out of it!] [$190 for 100 ml or $5.99 up for a sample at The Perfume Court] is a heady men's fragrance. It is very crisp and dry.

Pierre Bourdon is the nose for this one. I have loved and worn two of his other fragrances: Dior's Dolce Vita and Malle's Iris Poudre.

Notes: Patchouli, incense, tree moss, ceder, Angelica, galbanum and pimento.

I almost put this in my dry Patchouli category, because it is Patchouli that blasts out at me. It is much, much, much too strong and dry for me, even with the tiniest squirt, when I first spritzed it from my sample.

Of course I would have known to go easier, if I'd paid attention that it is a men's fragrance, even though I wear some. I expected it to be sweeter. It is definitely not sweet.

But now, hours later, it is a rich, sophisticated "skin enhancer" as the sample flier states. I doubt anyone can smell it except for me unless they get close, which is how I like my fragrances.

It is a terrific men's scent. I'm more circumspect when recommending it for a woman -- if you can get past the initial blast or if that first blast is different on you than on me it would work. The Non-Blonde can wear this one.

From the flyer again:

...a dramatic, almost Wagnerian composition that expresses the contained sophistication of the smart man.

Nathan Branch loves this one. He has beautiful pictures at his blog. He is the quintessential man for whom this was designed.

This is how SMT feels about this fragrance-- if only it had smelled that way on me! I like to think of angel's singing when a fragrance really works. I'm going to remember this quote:

And molecular attraction happens. They can say whatever they want about skin chemistry not existing. When a perfume really works on somebody's skin ...well, you just know it. You know it, your companion knows it, the sales assistant knows it... Barney's goes quiet for just a second to honor the solemnity of the moment. Perfume Smellin' Things

Do you wear this one?
Did it work for you?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com
don't steal my posts

Originally posted 2009-09-25 15:28:09.

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Flora Gucci is a wonderful new fragrance, consisting of

notes of citrus, peony, rose, osmanthus, sandalwood and patchouli.

When it first came out, it was exclusive to a particular store, but now it can be found more locally.

To me, it is a sort of cross between The One and Elle.
It is softer than The One, and a little less patchouli than Elle. But the patchouli in it, I'm sure, cuts the sweetness of the other floral accents, as does the citrus.

On me, the notes that are predominate are rose and citrus. The citrus puts it squarely in the younger group of consumers that Gucci is hoping to entice. It also makes it wearable for me, as I have trouble with roses being scrubbers.

Frida Giannini, Gucci's creative director, says that

Flora is lighter, the floral scent of course evokes a younger consumer, and she has a hedonistic, daring side. I don't want to say that Flora is the daughter of Gucci by Gucci but maybe the younger sister.

Flora is probably a second cousin twice removed from Gucci by Gucci, which is far more straight up sweet patchouli.

I even get a subtle memory of Bulgari Femme.

Meantime, in the midst of cold weather, wearing this fragrance, it feels as if a cool breeze is bringing the scents of spring. The fragrance is perfectly balanced. It stays true all day, though it is nice to refresh it. It doesn't have a lot of movement. Rather, the notes appear together in soft brightness, just as a spring day.

Have you tried it? Do you like it?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Originally posted 2009-03-02 21:13:26.

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I felt like bright turquoise today, and that made me think immediately of the colors that Aromaleigh has.

Eyes: all Aromaleigh, except where noted:
Crease: caribe, pure hue
Outer corners: aqua nightmare, gothic lolita
Inner corners: endless sea, rocks! sonic eyes
Drylined upper and lower: moonagedaydream, rocks! sonic eyes
Tight Lined upper and wet lined lower: Jordana Sterling Blue
Brows: Clinique soft blonde pencil
Mascara: Guerlain Le2 (double sided with small brush for lower lashes)

Foundation: Lancome minerals -- still trying to figure out how -- and how much -- to use; see how funky my nose looks here? I saw it in sunlight and took care of it. Generally I leave everything off my nose for this reason.
Powder: Lancome minerals
Highlight: AL magnolia blossom
Blush: AL english rose (a powder, not a blush, that didn't show up, so used it across my face, lightly)
Blush: Meow Masterpiece Water Lilies

Lips:
NYX Lips Hebe -- this one doesn't migrate. It's got a lovely sheen to it, doesn't feel slippery -- and it doesn't move into liplines around the mouth.

Karin

Originally posted 2009-05-02 16:27:29.

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I look forward to seeing the films!
Karin

The fragrance of film
Young (and not so young) auteurs are being invited to create a three minute short inspired by perfume. The comp is part of the first ever Fragrance & Film Festival, organized by Vogue and The Fragrance Foundation, and the winner will receive a chunk of change...$10,000. Members of the public will vote for their favorite films online, and then a winner will be picked from the top four rated shorts by a panel of judges, including director/producer Brett Ratner (“X-Men: The Last Stand” and the “Rush Hour” series), Doug Keeve, director of fashion documentaries “Seamless” and “Unzipped”, music video director Chris Robinson and producer Lee Daniels (“Monster’s Ball,” “The Woodsman” and “Shadowboxer.”)

I love this exercise in synesthesia—what a thrill to try and translate in to film the heady aroma of jasmine, the dizzying whiff of damask rose, the pheromonal allure of musk...The filmmakers are supposed to pick one of five fragrances as their inspiration, but those that were hoping for Chanel No. 5, Giorgio Beverly Hills or Opium are outta luck. Instead, they get to choose from Paris Hilton’s Can Can, Usher for Men, Usher for Women, Missoni Acqua and Gucci by Gucci. Oh well.
And you better get a shimmy on, the deadline for submissions is April 25, 2008.
Click here for more information. From Stylephile

Originally posted 2008-04-27 07:13:21.

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I promise some new reviews as soon as I have some time.

I've had some mini-sniffas lately that I want to share.

I promise!

Karin

Originally posted 2009-02-25 12:10:59.

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I would know the smell of my grandmother's house anywhere. It was a combination of the foods she cooked, my grandfather, and their Dalmatian. I thought it smelled wonderful. Unfortunately I can't catch the memory enough to actually remember remember it any longer, but I know I would recognize it in an instant if I smelled it again. Lately I've been wishing I could catch a whiff. I still miss my grandparents -- and Baron, the dog who pulled me in the wooden decorated dog cart that my grandfather had made.

Same for some of my other relative's homes. My aunt and uncle's home had a unique scent that incorporated the smell of his pipe tobacco. But try as I might, I can't quite capture it in my memory today, though I would know where I was, if I entered it blindfolded.

When College Girl and I were in Lucerne, several of the other people we were traveling with remarked about the strong scent of the tulips in the park along the water's edge. At that point, we hadn't walked in the park yet, and since I couldn't ever remember smelling tulips en masse, we walked over and about, both of us enjoying and smelling the huge array of tulips, and yes, they had a wonderful peculiarly green and wet bulb-y smell, mixed with the scent of the water which was close by. Growing up, we had only small amounts of tulips adorning the sides of our house and I had never noticed a scent. (We never brought them in the house either, where I would have been more likely to have smelled them.) And while Holland, Michigan, has a tulip festival, I had never been there. I had only seen pictures in the newspaper.

My mother had a green thumb, which I did not inherit. Every spring she would replant around the house. By contrast, I like to enjoy the fruits of other people's gardening -- no surprise since that is my childhood memory. She planted sweet alyssum up the walkways, and before you know it, they were profuse in color and in fragrance. One year, she'd plant white; the next, she would plant purple. The house where I spent my early childhood had lily of the valley at the side. I thought the shape and delicacy of the little bells were fascinating. I remember checking to see if they had come out yet.

Spring in Michigan was the time I broke out my lily of the valley scents, mostly Diorissimo, until the weather got hotter. I think what made it especially delightful was that it was worn in that particular climate with the scents of a Michigan spring all around -- forsythia, iris, tulips, lilac, new grass, new leaves. The scent was as bright as the flowers and folliage. Together the blend was unbeatable.

It doesn't smell the same on me here where there are no defined seasons per se, where it is green year round, and humid.

Funny, I don't remember what I wore for summer or fall, but in the dead of winter I wore Shalimar or Tabu. The Shalimar of today is a pale image of what it used to be. Then it was a knock-em-dead fragrance, but Tabu still takes no prisoners. They were good scents for the cold weather, with snow and scents of wood burning fires. A friend tells me that Shalimar smelled the best on her when she was still smoking, the blend of Shalimar with smoke...I believe it, as I got the same effect by wearing it in the winter, though not with cigarettes.

My mother usually wore one of two fragrances, Intimate by Revlon or Desert Flower by Shulton. Both were rich and heady on her, but not over powering. She probably had some No 5 too. She always smelled nice, even without perfume. And I liked the smell of our house, though again, the memory is only a dream of a waft.

People say my house smells good, but I'm so used to it, unless there is something out of the ordinary, I miss it.

What memories of fragrance do you hold in your mind's eye (nose)? Can you still catch them today or, like me, only if you were to be transported there? What made the strongest impression on you?

Karin

Originally posted 2007-03-27 06:06:20.

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Mary Kay Look Book
I got the new Look Book which features new shades and so many pretty looks. I'll say this for Mary Kay -- their models and makeup looks are really fashionable. This time they had a page which could be cut in 1/4s with the picture on one side and the products on the other.

That inspired me to do one (or more) of the looks, but loosely interpreted, because while some of the looks looked as if they had used cool colors, they were really using warm colors as the base and crease which I knew would not look the same on me. And one where only Lilac was used, I know would not be defined enough for my eyes. That model was dark complected so it showed up on her skin.

I ended up combining three looks. And it was very fast once I got the idea.

Eyes:
Base: Beauticontrol Pink
Crease: MK Lilac -- this is the one that didn't show up the last time I used it -- today I kept applying until I could see it.
Outer Corners and a bit in crease: Blue Metal I can wear these slate colors well.
Drylined top and bottom: combination of Iris and Sweet Plum
Mascara: Stiletto
Concealer: Dior Skinflash + Arbonne
Brows: Merle Norman powder

Primer: Guerlain Meteorites
Foundation: Arbonne
My usual rouge and sparkly powder + Guerlains Meteorites powder for bronzer.
Blush: MK Petals (frosted) and Strawberry Cream (no frost) mixed together -- I accidentally ordered SC -- I was going to go back and forth from Petals and Shy Blush (both frosted) but it has worked well to mix. Sometimes it is serendipity -- and not a mistake!
Highlight: Arbonne Promise mixed with Bashful along cheeks and across whole face lightly

Lips: AL Karma
such a pretty color!

Thanks for looking! Be sure to leave a comment.

To buy Arbonne from Bookgirl, if you don't have a representative, go here.

Karin

Originally posted 2009-06-26 11:49:49.

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