Entries Tagged 'Comparing' ↓
February 19th, 2010 — Cedar, Comparing, Iris, Orange Blossom, Perfume review, Rose, Vanilla, Woods
Hiris is one of my favorite hot weather fragrances. Introduced in 1999, I only heard about it a couple of years ago. It is considered a semi-oriental, suitable for a man or a woman. It is iris with an H for Hermes.
Top Notes: Orange blossom, rose, coriander seed
Heart Notes: White iris, black iris, cedarwood
Base Notes: Vanilla, ambrette seed, almond wood
There’s been a lot of iris hitting the market in later years, but Hiris stands the test of time. It is both sophisticated and modern. The scent of iris comes not from the flower, which as I remember has very little scent, but from the root or rhizome. Some iris is as cold as ice (notably Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens — which I cannot wear.)
Prada’s Infusion d’Iris brought out in 2007 was similar to Hiris, but it lacked any punch. It got tiresome after a while, because it was very light, with not much movement. I found myself overwhelmed (underwhelmed?) by its sameness.
Top Notes: mandarin, orange blossom,
Heart notes: iris
Base notes: galbanum, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver.
By contrast, Hiris is greener and more earthy. Maybe it’s the vanilla that I like, though I don’t particularly smell it. Maybe it’s the woods in it, in contrast to Prada’s. Whatever — I know I like it better.
For a while I swore off Iris, thinking I had grown tired of it and could no longer wear it, but I find I’m enjoying Hiris again. And my kids think I smell good.
It’s a refreshing fragrance, good for this sticky heat we are having. It brings the temps down, if that is possible. Somehow it reminds me of the time I walked along a park in Innsbruck. The park was filled with tulips and smelled earthy and green, along with the scent coming off the water.
Just what I need for a super hot summer day.
Have you ever worn Hiris? do you love it too?
I know a man could wear this well, but it is not so unisex that it leans sharply masculine. I couldn’t wear it if it did. Do you prefer Prada’s? or not?
Karin
Originally posted 2009-06-14 16:06:43.
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February 1st, 2010 — Comparing, Guerlain, Honey, Perfume review, Rose, Tobacco, Tonka Bean
Once in a while a really beautiful new perfume comes on the scene. Guerlain Tonka Impériale is one of them. It is destined to be a classic. Part of the L’Art et la Matière collection, it is one of the best in that line.
It’s rare for a perfume to hit all the right notes, be neither too sweet nor too dry, to be perfection on all levels. Tonka Impériale is the best of the best. It is poetry and art in a third dimension.
Do I sound too complimentary? Try it, and you will agree.
Notes: rosemary, almond, tobacco, honey, facets of hay and balsamic, tonka bean, of course vanilla, and the famous Guerlain Guerlinade, including rose. Maybe some orange blossom. Described as having almost a gingerbread quality, but I don’t catch that.
Thierry Wasser is the genius behind this fragrance, and I have to admit that I cannot wear his Iris Ganache. It is much too sweet and heavy on me. It never softens, but just keeps going. But here, in Tonka Impériale, he has removed the elements that gave me trouble.
Let’s talk about some of the notes:
Almond — this weaves its way through the fragrance, along with vanilla. I happen to love almond in a fragrance.
Honey — this is a gentle form of honey, not that acrid honey that is in some that is unwearable to me.
Rosemary and hay — I can’t smell it, but I’m guessing it gives it balance and takes away the sweet gourmand and brings it into herbs and essences.
Tonka bean — one of my favorite notes, a sort of vanilla-y scent, but not as sweet; some feel it adds a chocolate sense, but I feel it is the gourmand sense coming through.
Tobacco — yummy, even for those of us who do not smoke.
How does it compare to L’Instant Magic?
It has the almond note, but more vanilla and is headier. Think of Magic as a fragrance for the office, and Tonka Impériale as sex in a bottle, but not so earthy that you couldn’t wear it in the daytime to work or play.
How does it compare to YSL Cinema?
YSL Cinema is all almond, and it is less sweet. Tonka Impériale has the addition of vanilla, and while it is sweet, it isn’t sweet-sweet like Pink Sugar, for example.
How does it compare to Spiritueuse Double Vanille?
Spiritueuse notes: vanilla, benzoin, frankincense, spices, cedar, pink pepper, bergamot, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang. A little boozy and smokey.
Tonka Impériale is a little less sweet and a little lighter on the vanilla.
How does it compare to Kilian Back to Black?
B2B notes: bergamot, nutmeg, saffron, cardamom, coriander, raspberry, blue chamomile, honey, olibanum, cedar, oak, tobacco accord, patchouli, vanilla, almond and labdanum.
If you love B2B, you will love Tonka Impériale, which is heady on the tobacco, but less heavy than B2B. You could designate one for day and one for night — then switch and wear them just the opposite. They are enough different that I would want both.
How does it compare to Parfum de Nicolai Vanille Tonka?
Vanille Tonka is a floral spicy amber — even though amber is not listed in the notes. It is more spicy than Tonka Impériale and not quite as sweet, but just as luscious.
Vanille Tonka Top notes : Aromatic and citrus : basil, lemon and mandarin oils
Heart : Floral : carnation, orange blossom absolute, pepper oil, cinnamon oil
Bottom notes : Frankincense : frankincense and vanilla absolutes, tonka bean.
Have you tried Tonka Impériale?
Do you love it as much as I do?
How do I buy it? $235 for 2.5 oz.
Contact Claire at the Guerlain store in the Las Vegas Palazzo. Call 702-732-7008 or email GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com . He will take good care of you and get it right out to you.
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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January 13th, 2010 — Amber, Comparing, Laura Mercier, Perfume review, Prada
Prada L’Eau Ambrée is one of the nicest new fragrances to come along in a long time. It has a luminous quality to it and is very wearable, for either men or women. Nice hardly does it justice.
Daniela Andrier is the perfumer. She also did Infusion d’Iris. There is a similarity between the two fragrances, but I find L’Eau Ambrée more interesting. It holds my attention. I don’t tire of it. I found the sameness of Infusion d’Iris to be grating after a while — and it would get distressingly stronger.
L’Eau Ambrée is soft, but long lasting. It is said to be
graceful…empowering but never demanding.
Perhaps this should describe the ideal me!
Oddly enough, graceful, empowering, never demanding are words I could easily use to describe this fragrance, along with luminous, luminosity, sheer and enveloping. Discretely sexy and sensual. And however Andrier has modernized amber, it works. At least for me. There is even a hint of saltiness or sea air to it.
L’Eau Ambrée notes:
modernized amber, lemon and May rose essences, patchouli, oppoponax and vanilla.
Amber is usually very heady, rich and sweet. This is airy, but it has definite presence. It is light enough to wear anywhere, even out to dinner, but it has enough presence that I can smell it hours later, and I can catch nuances on my clothes. I use very little, as always, one squirt, maybe two. I might think it is gone, then I turn just right and catch this amazing fragrance that is more than gentle and less than the freshness in Infusion d’Iris.
I have not had good luck with Laura Mercier’s Amber Passion, which turned out to be a scrubber on me. At the time, the SA told me that they were told in sales meetings that it would either be wearable or not wearable. It started out very good, but did not stay that way on me. This was the first time I’d ever heard that amber could be either good or bad. Of course, that is true for any fragrance, which should be tried on skin for that reason. But if a fragrance starts out good, it’s generally not such an either-or proposition. But since that time I have been very careful with amber fragrances. The ones I wear are rich and sweet — I wear them at night or in winter; L’Eau Ambrée fills a different niche.
Amber Passion notes:
Top: labdanum, vanilla and geranium; middle: amber, tonka bean and patchouli; base: sandalwood, musk and cedar.
I suspect that different molecules were used for these two ambers.
My take
I find myself reaching for L’Eau Ambrée as my go-to everyday fragrance right now. I knew immediately that it was something I would enjoy, and I am not disappointed. As usual, I waited about 1/2 hour to make sure it stayed true. It is different from anything else I wear.
I think you could layer it nicely, though I haven’t tried that yet.
If you like amber, but are looking for a lighter version of amber, but one that has presence, give this one a try.
Is this one that you wear?
Have you tried this one? What do you think?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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January 10th, 2010 — Age, Arbonne, Aromaleigh, Avon, Chanel, Comparing, Guerlain, Hourglass, La Prairie, Laura Mercier, MAC, Primer, Review, Revlon, Sheer Cover, Signature Club A, Smashbox, Techniques, Un femme d'un certain age
Updated to include my review of Hourglass primer (and comparing it to Chanel’s Illuminating Base.) And also as a reminder about the value of using a primer.
To prime or not to prime, that is the question.
If you’ve not used a primer, try one and see what you think. Get a makeover and ask that they use one.
If you truly don’t like a primer, return it, if you bought it at a physical store. There are enough primers out there now, that you can find one that you love.
If you are using a primer, I’m guessing you will never go back to without.
Why prime?
What is the purpose of primer?
Primer perfects your look. It makes the surface of your skin silky with less visible imperfections, so you use less foundation. Your products glide over the top, meaning you need less foundation to cover.
What is primer made of?
Usually there is some silicone or one of the ‘cones’ in it to create a smooth surface on the skin.
Some folks even use Monistat gel for an inexpensive alternative.
How does it work?
Most primers are the last step before applying your foundation.
Primer slips over the skin, creating a light barrier, usually with silicone. Foundation glides on easier, goes on smoother, and covers better with less product.
Under a certain age, some primers will stop oil from coming through and messing with your look.
Once a certain age, a primer may act like spackle, one even has that name, gently filling in lines and pores to give a smooth surface for foundation and optically take time off your age.
Is it strictly cosmetic or is it also corrective?
All perform a cosmetic service; some are also corrective.
Color correction
Some primers color correct or add a sheer layer of color. Others are clear. Both Smashbox and Revlon Vital Radiance have multiple colors to correct.
Guerlain Meteorites Perles
Light-Diffusing Perfecting Primer; Base Perfection. Great little powder balls that color correct and do other neat things.
Contact Claire at Guerlain at the Palazzo in Las Vegas for all your Guerlain needs. (702) 732-7008. If you’re in town, stop in to visit!
Vital Radiance Smoothing Face Primer, SPF 25, Petal 002, Cool, 1 fl oz
which has been discontinued, can still be found on occasion. It came in two colors, cool and warm. I use cool.
Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer
is another good one. I use the purple. Purple will also bring a foundation into a cooler tone. One minimizes red tones; one minimizes yellow or sallow tones; one minimizes dark circles, veins, and dark spots. (The best thing for dark spots is using a lightening product or having them removed either by laser or by freezing.)
Some have added ingredients that benefit your skin.
Aromaleigh Easy applicator pump bottle. Very nice product.
The best “canvas” for any type of makeup is a perfect, smooth canvas. This is what we are all seeking, and for many, mineral makeup brings us one step closer.
Lock in hydration while smoothing and retexturizing your skin’s appearance and maximizing your makeup…
With natural oils of Safflower, Grape and Camellia, Vitamins E and A and advanced polymers… our primer combines nature with science to get your skin where you need it to go.
Less is more, just like with mineral makeup. Your primer can be blended with your moisturizer or sunscreen, or used on it’s own. It can even be combined with a small amount of powder to create an easy to apply mineral makeup/primer combination that smooths to a velvety finish. Aromaleigh
Arbonne Virtual Illusion makeup primer
Supposedly acts like a natural botox to improve the surface of your skin.
Create a flawless canvas for makeup application with this advanced primer. A blend of vitamins, skin-perfecting pigments, advanced cushioning and anti-aging ingredients work in harmony to help tone, smooth and minimize the visual appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores. The result is a velvety, matte, radiant finish.
GABA, hyaluronic acid, polypeptides, gamma orizinol, light deflecting pigments, B-glycherritinic acid; horsetail extract, green tea leaf and grape seed extracts
Guerlain
L’Or – has real flecks of gold in it and creates a lovely look.
Again, contact Claire, see above.
La Prairie
I have not tried this white one.
La Prairie for eyes
Shiseido Benefiance Facial Lifting Complex also works to firm.
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF15 with Dermaxyl Complex (Unboxed)
Here are some good ones:
Avon Magix evidently stops oil too; has a fairly heavy consistency; is generally well liked by everyone. Very reasonably priced at $10.
Smashbox – comes in clear (I like the purple better), purple (to correct skin tone, but it works to cool up colors of foundation that are a bit yellow),green (ditto, I haven’t tried this one) and an apricot one that has ingredients to benefit skin (I like the idea of this.) To me they all feel the same, but the clear one seems to do less. Placebo effect, likely!
Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer oil free spf 15 $52
I loved this product. It has a slight radiance to it which makes my skin look perfect. This is something I likely will be buying. 132 people reviewed it at Sephora, giving it an average of more than 4.5 stars.
Today I compared it to Chanel’s SHEER ILLUMINATING BASE. Both illuminate; Hourglass seems more slippery. I preferred the look of Hourglass once I had on my foundation and sparkly powder mix. I generally use Chanel’s only up the center of my face as a highlighter.
It is water-resistant and 100% fragrance free, oil free, and paraben free. It does not have an odd smell because of ingredients. I smell nothing.
It neutralizes the skin, creating a smooth, uniform slate for makeup application. Don’t forget the slight radiance which evenly distributes light to soften and camouflage skin imperfections and fine lines. It also protects from oil breakthrough, so your makeup stays looking fresh longer.
It has no
- Parabens
- Sulfates
- Synthetic Fragrances
- Synthetic Dyes
- Phthalates
The SPF is formulated with naturally-derived titanium dioxide and zinc oxide rather than chemical sun-blocking agents.
These work, but I don’t like them as well
Laura Geller Spackle – Sephora sampled this.
It started out white and got taupe colored when exposed to air. The sample was in a pot. The full size is in a pump which would eliminate exposure to air.
Laura Mercier Foundation Primer – Oil Free
Sephora sampled this also. It was one of the first on the market.
Revlon It’s OK, but I didn’t like it as well. Comes in two formulas.
Revlon Age Defying Instant Firming Face Primer for Normal/Combination Skin (Pack of 2)
Sheer Cover Light weight. Still, it is nice.
Smashbox Highlight and Prime together
You can read my review here. I don’t like the dual delivery system. It doesn’t feed evenly. You have to cover one side to make sure the other feeds. I love the color though. Would be better to have just had the highlight to use as you wish, and add to your primer or not, as you wish. Or have two separate tubes in the set vs. 2 in 1 tube.
How about perfecting your look even more?
There are products you can apply over your makeup that filter out and soften lines, similar to when Doris Day was filmed through a special lens.
Clarins makes a great one!
Use this around your mouth or eyes, wherever you need extra help. Try it out at one of the counters.
La Prairie
Pink colored, quite a heavy consistency. Pricey. No better than some and less than others. Evidently, it comes in gold too. I think it is quite thick.
The eye product tends to roll some, but the look is pretty.
Signature A Wrinkle Filiment
is heavier, similar to La Prairie’s, but apricot colored.
MAC Prep and Prime
Prep and prime is a face primer. I like prep and prime better than Smashbox Photo finish because it doesn’t have that slick feel to it. It’s not all silicone. I recommend it. Miranda
MAC Black eye primer
I also bought MAC’s black eye primer. It makes a huge difference in how the eyeshadow looks. Want a paler, more natural look, use a skin toned primer. Want uber kapow and drama for evening, use black primer! Miranda
Do you use a primer?
Which one(s) do you use or have you tried?
Let me know if I left out any that you particularly love.
Nearly every line has a primer in their arsenal now. I’d like to hear about any good ones!
To buy Arbonne from Bookgirl, if you don’t have a representative, just contact me, and I’ll put you in touch.
Karin
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December 12th, 2009 — Comparing, Cosmetics, Eye Shadow, Eye cream, Eye liner, Foundation, Highlighting, Lip Gloss, Lipstick, Mascara, Perfumes, Techniques, Truth in advertising
I had to laugh when my 13 yo asked to use the Spinlash mascara last night. (My review is here.) I knew it was right before her shower. She informed me that she was trying one mascara on one eye and Spinlash on the other to see how they both looked and worked. Good girl!
She is at the age where she would like to start wearing makeup, but she is afraid someone might notice and make a negative comment, never mind that other girls are putting it on with spatulas.
Her first foray into mascara was a few weeks ago, and so far, she has opted not to wear it to school. She felt it was too hard to apply, and she wondered if she had done it right. (She had.)
That reminds me of a story from my niece in years gone by. She had a gf whose mother was a hair stylist. Her mother forbade her to wear makeup. I said to my niece, “She puts it on at school, doesn’t she?” And my niece was amazed that I knew. I wasn’t born yesterday.
How much better it would have been for her mother, who had access to all kinds of great products, to provide her with good products in right colors, show her how to use them, and let her go at it. Or, give her some of her own products that she was no longer using. I might not spend the money for my girls’ makeup, but it doesn’t feel like I’m spending anything when I let them ’shop’ in my stash. I have some lovely products, a little too dark for me, that look grand on this 13 yo.
I make comparisons between products all the time. Here’s how:
In general, compare only one thing at a time.
If I’m comparing foundation, I do not compare skin care the same day or vice versa.
How would I know which was contributing to the look?
Compare over the course of the day Look at it in various lights.
How does it compare at first? How does it compare after I’ve worn it a bit? Does one side look more moist or dewy? Has it smudged? Is it irritating?
How does it feel?
Conversely, if you have a lot of oil or a steady T-zone, how is it holding up, is it disappearing? Is oil coming through?
Comparing foundations or skin care
I divide my face with an imaginary line up the middle. I learned this years ago from a consultant for Viviane Woodard who gave talks at women’s groups with full makeup on one side and none on the other. That took chutzpa!
I use one product on one side, one on the other. Everything else is the same. I look at it in various lights and ask my daughters or a friend — and sometimes even SAs if I’m around makeup counters — which side they prefer. Surprisingly, or not, we usually prefer the same side.
The differences are subtle. Without being asked, and without drawing attention to it, no one would notice. But I notice; I’m particular; and I’m really looking for what is best.
If there’s any doubt, I do it several times over the course of a few days, switching sides, so that it isn’t my ‘good’ side that is providing the answer.
Eye cream
Use one on and under one eye; the other on and under the other eye. See which side is still hydrated and has less lines than the other over the course of the day.
Mascara
Try one mascara on one upper lash; the other on the other. Compare them over the course of the day.
Eye shadows or eye liners
I have been known to actually do two different looks, one on each eye. Most people don’t notice, LOL. You can compare brands, similar shades, different formulations, etc. You can even be intentional, as for a mardi gras look.
Perfumes
One on each arm or one on each wrist. You could put one on your arms, one on your legs.
I am reviewing two now that will go up later in the day, but I’m waiting to describe the mid and end points. I’ve worn them for several days this way, but I haven’t yet taken the time to describe them.
Lipsticks and lip glosses
You can put one on one lip and the other on the other and smoosh your lips together.
Or, you can try one, and when it is gone, try the next one.
Hair products
Generally, I compare on different days, but it is possible to compare products that tame frizz, for example, one on one side, one on the other. That way you know which you prefer and which you will re-buy. Or you could compare shampoos, by using one for the first wash, the other for the second, always remembering that the second sudses up more, so reverse it the next day.
Karin
Originally posted 2009-03-14 14:39:23.
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December 10th, 2009 — Chanel, Chocolate, Comparing, Guerlain, Patchouli, Perfume layering, Plum
I’m laughing at myself today. Sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do!
I have so many fragrances that sometimes it is hard to choose, and if it’s been a while since I’ve worn something, I need a scent nudge to remember how it smells on me or how it makes me feel or how it enhances my mood. But I don’t want to pick the wrong scent for the day, because if it doesn’t match what I hoped for, I’d be better off going scentless.
Yesterday I wore Guerlain 68 for a while, but it wasn’t doing it for me. It didn’t have enough going for it or for me. I’m looking for a deeper fragrance to match the weather, I guess.
I’ve been thinking of Coromandel for a couple of days, but first I was drawn today to Moscow. Then I thought, why not wear both at the same time, not one later, you might like it!
So I have Moscow on my left arm and Coromandel on my right. I smell good!
And to top it off, I’m burning a scent tart Autumn Fruit by Yankee Candle. That’s yummy too. Interesting that they all go together.
The stars have aligned!
Moscow Notes: Musk, fruit, wood…vanilla, bergamot, red currants, absinthe, lemon, plum
Coromandel Notes~ “named for the Chinese lacquered screens Gabrielle Chanel collected, is a spirited oriental with amber and dry notes”. Orange peel, frankincense, patchouli, chocolate, vanilla.
Coromandel is much more in your face. It overpowers Moscow on the first spritz, but as it settles down, the two are equals.
Moscow has a little more fruit (plummy) but this is not a teeny-bop fruit, oh no! This is grown up.
And Coromandel has that patchouli-chocolate thang going for it. I’m a sucker for both, unless the chocolate is fake smelling or the patchouli is too dry. This is just perfect.
Often if I layer a fragrance, I just spritz one on top of the other, but this I believe I would do exactly the same again. Each is more interesting with the other, but I would not want them blended. I like the distinctness of them both, and I get to enjoy two fragrances, not one.
If you like plum
Another plum is Rochas Femme, but I don’t wear it as well.
Notes for Femme
Top Notes: Peach, plum, bergamot, lemon, rosewood
Heart Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, May rose, clove, orris
Base Notes: Musk, amber, oakmoss, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, leather
You might also like
Ghost (deep night) (pretty bottle too, it looks like the moon.)
top: hibiscus, rose petals and ambrette grains.
mid: Jasmine, spicy sandalwood and warm frankincense tones
base: vanilla, musk, ambergris and apricots
Notes: Rose, apricot, peach, vanilla, musk
So, asking a friend which she prefers, she likes them both, but Moscow might have the edge. But I love what Coromandel is bringing to it, having the edginess of the patchouli-chocolate along with it. I actually like them both together better than I’ve liked either one of them alone.
Do you wear either of these?
Do you have a favorite chocolate? patchouli? plum or fruit?
And I’m listening to Christmas music on my iPod — jazz at the moment. I hope you are having a great day!
Karin
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December 4th, 2009 — Aromaleigh, Bare Escentuals, Comparing, Fyrinnae, Mary Kay, Meow, Review
I just realized that I’ve never done a formal review of Aromaleigh shadows, though if you follow my blog, you know I like to wear them.
I’ve never met an AL shadow that I didn’t like, and most of them I truly love. I found AL through mention at another list I’m on. After seeing several highly complimentary mentions, and going to the website several times, I took the plunge to order a few samples. The rest is history.
What I like most
What I particularly like about AL shadows is their radiancy and brightness — even the darker colors — which sounds like an oxymoron. The dark colors have life to them. They aren’t drab.
I find for my own eye, I like the luminosity of AL shadows. It is more flattering on an older eye than mattes, though AL has some beautiful lit-with-light mattes right now. I haven’t tried any of them. I do have a set of AL Carolina mattes.
The different collections are beautiful. The difference in appearance, the luminosity, can be similar, yet unique to the particular collection. The descriptions on the website are very accurate.
Easy to apply
They are very easy to apply. They go on smooth, last all day, and the colors are amazing.
Compared to other brandsI have bought several other brands of mineral shadows.
Bare Escentuals
Bare Escentuals were the first minerals I found and tried. They are easy to find. At the time, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to work with loose pigments, but I’ve found I like it even better than working with pressed shadows. The technique is a bit different, but not much. The key is to know how much to pick up on your brush.
I like BE shadows a lot, and I have many. I reach more for AL right now. BE might be your Cadillac, and AL is the Lexus or Jag. AL is more edgy.
Fyrinnae
Fyrinnae requires a different technique of application. You must dab the pigments, not sweep them, though you can do some blending by sweeping after the color is on. If I worked with them more, I’d probably reach for them more.
Fyrinnae, to me, is more cutting edge as far as some colors than AL. I reach for AL more. I haven’t tried to work with both together, though I might try that this week.
Meow
Nice colors; easy to apply. I like what I’ve chosen very much. The colors are different from AL and just as nice.
Mary Kay
Mary Kay minerals are pressed (except for this last Holiday batch which came in a wand applicator.) The regular line colors are pretty. They are easy to use. I wasn’t too crazy about the Holiday line. I much prefer the array and look of AL to the MK Holiday colors.
Other brands
Well, I have a few miscellaneous shadows around that don’t bear mentioning.
I also haven’t decided if I will try any other brands, because I’m not sure I see a point. OTOH, there are a lot, lot, lot of Indie companies out there.
AL sales
AL has weekly sales. That’s a good time to pick up full sizes of any samples that you want a full size of. During the sales, the samples are discounted too, so it’s a very good time to try out several samples or colors you might not think you could wear. Because, most likely you will find you can wear them beautifully.
Karin
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December 2nd, 2009 — Ayala Moriel, Bespoke, Comparing, Just thinking, Perfume review, Perfumes, Sweet orange, Tea, Vanilla
Ayala Moriel is a talented parfumer with a wide selection to choose from. If you are lucky enough to live in her area, you can be included in some of the wonderful things she offers locally, that she is able only to tell us about, those of us who live at a distance.
I have been comparing two new scents by Ayala for the past couple of weeks: Vetiver Racinettes and Immortelle L’Amour. Immortelle L’Amour is due to launch in November. You may currently order samples and pre-order for the launch. VR will launch at an undisclosed time.
First, I really love Ayala’s scents and they are beautifully packaged. They are all forms of parfum so they stay close to you vs. a lot of sillage around you and trailing in the room. I love to wear Ayala’s scents as the day progresses. I will start with one or two, then either layer again or choose different scents depending on my mood. When I need a boost, I put a couple of drops on my wrists. They keep my mind energized and engaged. They never fail to please me.
One day I would like to meet her in person. To have a personal consultation and a bespoke fragrance would be heavenly!
I recommend getting a sample package from her. That way you can sample several of her scents. They are bound to please if you choose notes you know you love — or perhaps are intrigued by and would simply like to try for the sake of trying.
Immortelle L’amour:
The maple-like nuances of immortelle absolute are used here along with sweet orange, cinnamon, wheat and three different infusions of vanilla, creating a perfume that truly captures the aroma of cinnamon-pancakes and Tire d’Erable (“taffee on the snowâ€), an inseparable part of the Quebec heritage in the Maple Harvest Festivals. You’ll find it hard to resist licking this perfume, but it will prove to be a true friend for a love-injured heart.
Famlies: Gourmand
Top Notes: Sweet Orange, Cinnamon
Heart Notes: Rooibos Tea, Broom
Base Notes: Immortelle, Vanilla, Wheat
The immortelle note is juxtaposed with a rich vanilla accord, using a few different varieties of vanilla: a dark absolute from Madagascar, a vanilla CO2 from Bourbon islands, and a tincture of vanilla which I made from plump vanilla pods (seeds and all) from Ghana. Another home-made tincture is used – that of red tea (rooibos), as this material is rarely available in the market as an absolute. Another interesting edible note that I’ve used is wheat absolute. It has a very subtle, iodine-like note, and along with cinnamon CO2 Immortelle l’Amour fills the air with an authentic warm cinnamon-waffles with maple smell… As it dries down, it feels as though an invisible maple taffee is spread upon my skin, sans the stickiness…
Reading the notes of Immortelle does not give you a true estimate of the fragrance, though all the notes can be distinguished. It is not as sweet as it sounds. Yes, I smell maple, real honest to goodness maple syrup, the only kind worth eating. Yes, I can smell the maple syrup that we would drip on snow, then eat as candy. I don’t get much vanilla from it. The orange and cinnamon hint around the edges. Interestingly on me, the maple (at first) is reminiscent of patchouli. (I also get this from VR.) It is sophisticated enough to wear on all occasions. While gourmand, it is not immediately recognizable as foody, nor is it terribly sweet. It is a perfect parfum for this time of year.
Each time I have sampled, I have applied one good sized drop, each one on the same wrist. When I first apply these new ones, they are similar in their beginnings, but VR is much less sweet and more herbal. As they continue to drydown, VR actually becomes sweeter on me than Immortelle. Within five minutes Immortelle has segued into its next stage and VR is moving a bit forward too.
Vetiver Racinettes [Ayala tells me it reminded her of the sweet spiciness of rootbeer, which racinette means in French]:
Top notes: Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger, Cardamom, Kaffir Lime Leaf
Heart notes: Haitian Vetiver , Nutmeg Asbolute, Coffee, Spikenard
Base notes: Ruh Khus, Indonesian Vetiver, Vetiver Bourbon, Attar Mitti, Tarragon Absolute, Cepes
Perhaps it is the tarragon that makes it sweet. I love to cook with tarragon. It is so well blended here that I didn’t recognize it until I saw it in the notes.
Either one would be equally suitable for a man.
Earlier in my blog I did a series on the samples I ordered from her. If you wear her fragrances, tell us which are your personal favorites. And if you have not ordered from her yet, give yourself a treat.
Ayala is located in Vancouver. I only wish I had known that when I was in Vancouver a year ago. Her fragrances remind me of the city, I’m not quite sure why, unless it is the cosmopolitan nature of it.
Karin
Originally posted 2007-10-20 16:17:45.
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November 23rd, 2009 — Comparing, Le Jardin Retrouvé, Perfume review, Tobacco, Vanilla, Vetiver
It’s no secret that I like vetiver, so I was very happy to receive a bottle of Vetyver Vanille from Le Jardin Retrouvé. This is a scent for which they have no samples.
I reviewed Eau de Vetyver by Le Jardin Retrouvé when I was guest blogging at ColognePerfumeFragrance.
Vetiver is frequently used as a base note in men’s and women’s fragrances
It is used more dominantly in men’s fragrances, and then, to me, it is more pungent than what is usually found in women’s fragrances.
Vetyver Vanille
Vetiver is dominant in this fragrance, but bourbon vanilla is added to it.
Comparing the notes to Eau de Vetyver
Vetyver Vanille Notes:
Top Notes bergamot, lemon
Mid Notes: warm, woody with a touch of tobacco
Base Notes: spicy and peppery, vetyver + bourbon vanilla
Eau de Vetyver Notes: bergamot, lemon, tobacco, vetiver
Comparing the two fragrances
For the past three days I have worn one fragrance on one wrist; the other on the other. In many ways they are similar, as you would expect. There are times when I catch a faint memory of vanilla in Vetyver Vanille, but this is not Vanille Vetyver. The vetiver is dominant, not the vanilla, and the vanilla is not sweet, it is more dry. So this is not a girlie vetiver, even though there is vanilla in it.
Of the two fragrances, after several hours there is more scent left in the Vetyver Vanille than in Eau de Vetyver. It is at this point that the vanilla is more noticeable, and also in the immediate beginning. My daughter can smell the vanilla in it more than I can.
Is this a scent that both sexes can wear?
Absolutely, it is suitable for a man or a woman, and could easily be a shared scent between lovers.
What is it like?
It is smooth from the beginning with no alcohol that needs to burn off to get to the fragrance underneath.
At it’s end point, it remains rich with a hint of vanilla, which would likely be more if I had applied more in the beginning. I dabbed both scents. I did not spritz. As such, it stays close to my skin, like a perfume.
Would it work to layer into other fragrances to add vetiver?
Yes, I think this would work beautifully. I prefer it to Guerlain’s Vetiver. You might have to be careful of the vanilla in it, when layering, if that would not work with the fragrance you were layering it with.
What I like about it:
I like that the vetiver is not harsh or sharp, but rich and smooth. I prefer it over Guerlain’s.
My take:
I give this fragrance a 3 out of 4. It is lovely. It is a tad sweeter than Eau de Vetyver. It’s a toss up for me which I prefer.
What do you think?
Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Them for Free Samples – Tout autour du Monde – All around the world.) If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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November 12th, 2009 — Comparing, Hermes, Perfume review, Perfumes
Inspired by Michelyn Camen’s Mimosa Pour Vous: Hermes Reissues Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée I am reissuing this review I did earlier.
The good news:
It looks like there will be a spring 2010 reissue. Yippee!
In store, I was comparing Hermes Caleche Fleurs de Méditerranée with Hermes Kelly Caleche.
The sign of a good SA is knowing what to say. She said, “Let me smell them both on you.” She did, taking time to savor the notes of each as she pondered. She agreed that she liked them both on me (normally I would stay away from tea rose that is in Kelly Caleche, but honestly it could be that now I can wear notes I couldn’t wear before — it is expanding my range, because I can still wear what I’ve always liked) but, she said, “Caleche Fleurs de Méditerranée is more complex on you.”
Those were the magic words. It is more complex than Kelly Caleche. Yes, it is. KC is more of a one-note tea rose, but it is tempered with enough other notes so as not to knock me over with rose.
So it depends, do I want complex (normally yes, as it is more fun to wear) or simple (which works nicely when one just wants to relax with a perfume, ’stead of keeping on one’s toes.)
And, of course, there is a huge price break between the two with Caleche Fleurs de Méditerranée weighing in at a hefty $150.
Anybody notice that those prices just keep going up and up and up — through the roof? And it doesn’t take much to justify them.
How exclusive is it really?
Available only at Nieman-Marcus as part of their 100th anniversary celebration, this limited edition fragrance had a run of only 2500 bottles. My fairly local store reports that they sold all of their first bottles and had to get bottles from a bigger store that still had some.
It was originally created in 2003 by Jean-Claude Ellena, though there is some question as to whether it is the same fragrance or not. I can’t say, as I didn’t smell the earlier one. Is it possible they would re-issue it again for another exclusive event? For those who love this fragrance, that would be a bit of good news. Maybe it has to have a tie-in to another event for it to get the promotion it deserves. Or possibly, the next time out it will be more expensive. Ouch.
Osmoz reports the 2003 notes as:
Top note : feuille de violette, jasmin d’Egypte
Middle note : rose de Turquie, absolue de mimosa
Base note : heliotrope, cire d’abeille
Elsewhere listed: Moroccan mimosa, Turkish rosa damascena, Egyptian jasmine, with the additional notes of beeswax and heliotrope. No mention of violet in any form.
I like Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermes, also 2003, with notes of Fig Woods and Leaves, Orange Blossom, Bergamot, White Oleander. Caleche Fleurs de Mediterranee reminds of this, but is richer and fuller.
I can tell you that it transports me back to Mediterranean gardens, with a sea scent on the breeze. I am ready to go back!
Have you ever noticed that the quality of light is different in different areas?
There is a luminous quality to this fragrance that reminds me of the light that is unique to the Mediterranean. While there are no notes of sea in it, there is a quality of airiness. I think that is what I’m catching.
It is one I’m reaching for more often than others. It’s not too sweet. It’s just right.
And I’m not generally a floral person, except as it applies to real flowers that I made a commitment to have around the house this year.
How about you, do you like this fragrance?
If you do, you might consider bottle splitting when there are still bottles to be had. I wonder how many are left? The store local to me had about 5 on their shelves, but this was their second go.
Karin
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October 26th, 2009 — Bergamot et al, Comparing, Dolce and Gabbana, Lychee, Perfume review, Pink grapefruit, Rose, Sandalwood, Vanilla
Rose The One
I was able to try Rose The One in person tonight, and I have to say it is a nice addition to the original The One.
What are the notes?
Rose The One
notes: blackcurrant, pink grapefruit, mandarin, lily of the valley, rose, litchi, peony, Madonna lily, ambrette seed, sandalwood, musk and vanilla.
The One
top: bergamot, mandarin, lychee and peach,
mid: Madonna lily, muguet and jasmine,
base: of plum, vetiver, vanilla, amber and musk.
How do they compare?
The main difference for me is the addition of pink grapefruit in Rose The One. That comes across strongly in the beginning, perhaps even stronger than the rose. But citrus notes burn off fast from the top notes, leaving a gentler, softer version of The One.
Both fragrances begin with almost a fizz, but the fizz is stronger in Rose The One, as you would expect, because of the tart aspect of the grapefruit.
Does it resemble the original The One?
Unlike some flankers that have no resemblance to the original fragrance except for the name, Rose The One stays true to the original concept, while making it more wearable with the addition of the rose and pink grapefruit and softening it.
My Take:
I found over time that The One was a fragrance so distinctive that I tired of it. I couldn’t layer up over it to get another fragrance later in the day, which I like to do.
I like citrus in a fragrance. And I have trouble wearing roses. But Rose The One is one I can wear. I’m really happy that it has a lighter feel to it than The One. I prefer it.
Have you tried it?
Do you wear either of them? Which do you prefer?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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August 25th, 2009 — Arbonne, Bare Escentuals, Comparing, Creating a new lippie, Lip Gloss, Lip pencil, Lipstick, Techniques
Eye colors are the same Arbonne smoky eye set as yesterday, but this time I began with a 2nd base layer of BE Queen Phyllis — I know this works better for me than without using it. It softens the dark colors a bit, but I bet it looks as dark comparatively on me as the set looks on someone else with darker skin who uses the set alone.
Today I used Lancome foundation. All the rest the same, except I layered Arbonne Promise (light pink) over Arbonne Savvy (apricot) for blush.
Highlighted up the center with Arbonne lightest blush.
I forgot to go over it all with my sparkly powder mix, and I feel the Guerlain meteorites alone is too matte.
Lips:
Lined: Arbonne Nice pencil
Next: Arbonne Illusion + Gleam gloss + Stila sparkle combination gloss
I used a lip pencil then put the tiny bit left on the brush on my cheeks, using my fingers.
And here’s yesterday’s for comparison.
You can contact Book Girl to see products that are available or to purchase, if you do not have a consultant.
What do you think?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
don’t steal my posts — you know who you are
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July 22nd, 2009 — Absinthe, Cedar, Comparing, Guerlain, Spices, Vanilla
In many ways Guerlain Moscow reminds me of 68, so I thought today I’d compare the two to see if my scent memory was on the beam or not. There is that certain Guerlain flavor to both of them which adds a particular sameness — I wasn’t wrong about that.
I hesitate to call it Guerlinade. I suppose I’d call it Fruit and Guerlinade because both of these have some fruit in them. At the same time this is not your usual teeny bopper fruit, this is grown up fruit. Both of these can easily be worn by a man or a woman (68 is marketed towards a man, but it is good on me.)
I put 68 on my left arm, and Moscow on my right arm at the same time. I was careful not to mix the two (very often I will apply to one arm, then transfer to the other by blotting my arms together.)
Guerlain 68
68 was sweeter from the get-go and the stronger of the two. As far down as vanilla is in the list of notes, you wouldn’t think it would be so dominant.
Notes for 68, if you can believe it:
Notes for Guerlain Cologne du 68: bergamot, green mandarin, lemon, clementine, orange peel, blood orange, sweet lime, grapefruit, basil, fennel, star anise, lavender, bay leaf, cypress, elemi, thyme, myrthe, bigarade, mandarin, petit grain, lemon petit grain, pear, violet greens, lierre, gentiane, seve, blackcurrant, freesia, lily of the valley, hazel leaf, cyclamen, cardamom, coriander, black pepper, pink berry, nutmeg, ginger, jasmine, frangipane, magnolia blossom, orange blossom, peony, rose, carnation, ylang-ylang, lychee, fig, blackberry, immortelle, lentisque (mastic), opoponax, amber, benzoin, vanilla, cistus, heliotrope, iris, tonka bean, sage, musk, patchouli, agarwood, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, vegetable musk, praline, myrrhe and lichen.
Or a shorter version, again if it can be believed:
green tangerine, lemon petit-grain, limette, star anise, coriandre, cardamom, pepper, immortelle, opoponax, and cedar.
Guerlain Moscow
Moscow was spicier — maybe it’s the absinthe and the red currants. You definitely get red currants in the beginning — and I like that note. (Kilian has an absinthe too — perhaps I’ll compare it to Moscow tomorrow, though as I remember it, the Kilian has lavender in it, so it is quite different.)
Notes: Musk, fruit, wood…vanilla, bergamot, red currants, absinthe, lemon, plum
It is now several hours later. Neither is strongly discernible to my nose, but putting my arm up to my nose, both smell pretty nearly alike. Perhaps having both is not a necessity, but they are quite different in the beginning.
Here are the verdicts from my scent testers (2 teens, 1 20 something, and a preteen):
Could they smell it when I walked past them two hours later?
Yes, they could smell it; it was light, not too strong. Then I let them smell each arm so they could tell me which one was still evident. I could smell 68 more.
20 something: She could smell the Moscow and likes it better.
Pre-teen: She could smell the 68, but likes the Moscow better.
Teen (10th grade): She could smell the Moscow. It’s not too strong.
Teen (8th grade): She could smell both. She could smell it when I walked away, not when I walked toward her. She liked them.
Isn’t that funny!
Re-spritzed: (I’ve never respritzed before today.)
Me: 68 smells reminiscent of Shalimar now, the original vintage. Between the two, I can’t smell Moscow, though putting arm to nose, Moscow is spicier.
20 something: Still likes Moscow.
Pre-teen: Oh, that’s fruity (the blend of the two.) I like it!
10th grader: I smell vanilla now. (Yes, there’s vanilla in both.)
8th grader: I like it!
So there you have it! I still think it’s funny.
Hey, Claire (Kyler and Jorganne), what do you think? from Guerlain at the Palazzo in LV.
Do they remind you of each other? Which lasts longer? Which do you prefer (not fair, I know, when you sell it!)
Don’t forget that both of these are available at Guerlain at the Palazzo in Las Vegas. Stop in if you are there — or phone (702) 732-7008 or email GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com. Be sure to tell them you heard it from me. They will treat you right and take good care of you. I always have fun there.
Do you have either of these? Do you have both?
Do you have a preference one over the other?
My personal preference: I wish the bottles were smaller and cost less.
Karin
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July 10th, 2009 — Comparing, Kilian, Oud, Tom Ford
Pure Oud is the first in Kilian’s Arabian Nights series. And if you like oud, you likely will like this.
Again, I had the good fortune of sniffing the entire Killian line, including Pure Oud, at SAKs in Las Vegas. Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me.
How to describe Oud if you are unfamiliar with the note — oud is well loved in the east but may be less well known in the west. Its mystique is such that agarwood is in short supply in many places, for oud perfume oil is made from the fragrant resin found in Aquilaria or Agarwood trees.
Oud is thought to be the Biblical aloe, as well as both an aphrodisiac and an aid to spiritual meditation. No wonder it is loved and treasured!
The only note in this fragrance, according to Sergio, is Oud, hence the name Pure Oud. And this Oud comes from Dubai, which is supposed to produce the best Oud.
But others smell leather, saffron, and tobacco notes in it. I catch nuances of these notes also.
It is both woody and resinous and dry. It is not particularly sweet. Certainly suitable for either a man or a woman, it will likely be a best seller, despite the fact that it is more expensive than the rest of Kilian’s line — over $300 — because it is Oud.
Contrast this to Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, which is also lovely but entirely different. Ford’s is sweeter and stronger in a different way.
notes for Oud Wood: rosewood, cardamom, Chinese pepper, oud, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, vanilla and amber
If the two weren’t so expensive, I might have both. As it is, I will have to decide which calls to me more. Pure Oud is both sharper and more velvety than Oud Wood.
Have you smelled them both?
Do you own either? What do you think?
Coming up: Other Kilian fragrances including the September release of Back to Black aphrodisiac, delicious as it is!
You can see an overview of all Kilian fragrances here.
Karin
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June 8th, 2009 — Arbonne, Comparing, Lancome, Mascara
This was how I looked first thing this morning.
Arbonne is on my upper left. Lancome is on my upper right. I used Tarte on the lower lashes.
12 hours later, the Arbonne side is still going strong. There is some smudging and a bit of flake on the Lancome side. I’m sorry, but I couldn’t get a good picture to be able to show it. That’s just the way it worked out. I used the Arbonne two step mascara, but I totally forgot to use the second step. The first step is mascara; the second step is a shiny clear finish that separates. I usually use both; today I forgot because I got sidetracked.
To buy Arbonne from Bookgirl, if you don’t have a representative, go here.
Karin
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