Entries Tagged 'Bergamot et al' ↓

Delices de Cartier

Spurred on by hearing a description of this on another, I reached for my bottle of Delices de Cartier parfum last night and decided to give it another go.

Generally speaking, I do not like cherry in a fragrance. I bought a bottle of Guerlain’s cherry a number of years ago, because I fell in love with the bottle, but it keeps refilling itself, for the few times I reach for it, it doesn’t seem to go down. Each year Guerlain has tweaked it a little, but I’ve only bought it once.

I find I’m gradually moving into another price range of perfumes. This one I resisted buying because of the price point and because I don’t usually care for cherry. (edt is either $75 or $105 and parfum is $160 — and of course, wouldn’t you know, the only one I liked really was the parfum. I’m not surprised that I like the best. I usually don’t go for parfums as I prefer sprays and I don’t notice a lot of difference, but in this one, the parfum is a spray and there is a difference.) I ended up trading for a partial bottle, which works just fine for me, as it is rare for me to finish a bottle. I’d rather have variety until I know how much I will reach for it.

Cartier’s fragrance, which means Delights, is packaged in one of the most beautiful bottles ever designed — a red and clear, cut-glass bottle topped with a flower centered with a large square crystal. With this fragrance they moved successfully into another fragrance type, that of the fruity/floral gourmand.

It’s notes are Iced Cherry (Morello), Sicilian Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Violet, pink, white and yellow Jasmine, Freesia, Amber, Tonka Bean, Musk, Sandalwood.

Last night, I kept coming back to smell my arm, and it was Delight-ful. At the same time, because it is not something I usually wear, it was a bit jarring to me and didn’t seem like ‘me.’ But I liked it well enough to give it a go again today.

I spritzed a small spritz before heading to the movies, transferred it from one arm to the other, and this time, it was lovely, not jarring. Imagine, when I came home, that my house smelled wonderful. (People always tell me it does, but I’m not able to identify what it is particularly.) This time, what I smelled under it all, was the small spritz I had spritzed, then walked down the hallway carrying the sillage with me. (No one remarked about the fragrance on me. I really do wear fragrance for myself. If I wore enough that others would particularly notice, I’d overwhelm myself.)

Because I loved the way the house smelled, I re-spritzed once more for the day. One tiny spritz — remember this is parfum!

In this fragrance, there is a difference between the edt and the parfum (which is a spray) (there is no edp). I prefer the parfum, as it is richer and deeper. The edt seemed brighter and less ‘real’ if that makes sense.

I don’t know how often I’ll reach for this one. Perhaps the constellation of stars must be in proper alignment. But when it works, it is a wonderful addition to their line that includes Must, Panthere, Le Baiser Du Dragon, and Eau de Cartier (Christine Nagle was the nose for that as well as for Délices — and they are really completely different, but equally compelling.)

I find the cherry neither tart nor sickeningly sweet. If you’ve ever eaten Rainier cherries, which I particularly love, that is the feeling I get from this fragrance. Rainier cherries are large with sweet flesh and are considered the best of the best. The skin is yellow to red. They sell for $1/each in Japan, but lucky for me, they are about $5 a pint here and are available only once a year. Considering that I don’t like cherries and I love these…I wait each year for the season, now that I’ve found them.

It’s no surprise that Cartier which is known for its opulence would choose an opulent cherry as well, for this is not a typical teen cherry…oh no, this is grown up, voluptuous, Delight-ful, complete with spirit and verve. This is a grown up woman, used to the best in life, who loves to experience life. Her gourmand fragrance is not chocolate. You better watch out for her — she’s a little bit saucy and unpredictable, but that only makes her interesting.

I’m with her.

Do you like this one?
Karin

Originally posted 2007-07-17 15:33:44.

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Review: D&G Comparing Rose The One with The One

Rose The One
I was able to try Rose The One in person tonight, and I have to say it is a nice addition to the original The One.

What are the notes?
Rose The One

notes: blackcurrant, pink grapefruit, mandarin, lily of the valley, rose, litchi, peony, Madonna lily, ambrette seed, sandalwood, musk and vanilla.

The One

top: bergamot, mandarin, lychee and peach,
mid: Madonna lily, muguet and jasmine,
base: of plum, vetiver, vanilla, amber and musk.

How do they compare?
The main difference for me is the addition of pink grapefruit in Rose The One. That comes across strongly in the beginning, perhaps even stronger than the rose. But citrus notes burn off fast from the top notes, leaving a gentler, softer version of The One.

Both fragrances begin with almost a fizz, but the fizz is stronger in Rose The One, as you would expect, because of the tart aspect of the grapefruit.

Does it resemble the original The One?
Unlike some flankers that have no resemblance to the original fragrance except for the name, Rose The One stays true to the original concept, while making it more wearable with the addition of the rose and pink grapefruit and softening it.

My Take:
I found over time that The One was a fragrance so distinctive that I tired of it. I couldn’t layer up over it to get another fragrance later in the day, which I like to do.

I like citrus in a fragrance. And I have trouble wearing roses. But Rose The One is one I can wear. I’m really happy that it has a lighter feel to it than The One. I prefer it.

Have you tried it?
Do you wear either of them? Which do you prefer?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Perfume Review: Divine L’Inspiratrice

It’s hard to pick a favorite Divine fragrance, but L’inspiratrice, her newest fragrance at the time I first tried it, is mine. I received another sample of this from a generous POLer, so it spurred me to re-try all the Divine fragrances.

L ‘ i n s p i r a t r i c e (the inspirer)
Notes: patchouli and the rose; ylang from the Comoros and bergamot from Calabria, peony and white musk, vetiver blended with vanilla and tonka bean.

What about the notes?
As you know, if you’ve been reading my blog, I like patchouli, and I have to be very careful with rose and musk. I love vetiver, bergamot, vanilla, and tonka bean. So, this fragrance seemed a good bet for me, if I could wear the rose.

How to describe this
…it is not like other patchouli and rose fragrances you might have tried.

What is the rose like?
It is not a dirty rose as some rose and patchouli fragrances are.

No, this is the rose in the midst of the garden with dew on its petals. But the addition of the other notes brings a sort of gourmand touch, without it being sweet. It is interesting and spell binding. It starts out with a bit of a punch, then quickly settles down to lovely time out of time moments.

Indeed, the house asks:

Will L ‘ i n s p i r a t r i c e cast a spell on you too ?

Yes it did. Tres cordialement. I even like the red bottle.

How about you?

Do you wear this one? or any other Divine fragrance? Do you have a fave?

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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Review: Kilian Back to Black: Aphrodisiac

Back to Black: Aphrodisiac, Kilian’s 9th fragrance and the second in his Arabian Nights series. It will debut in September. I was lucky enough (pun intended since I was in Las Vegas) to try this fragrance during my recent trips to Las Vegas.

I can’t wait until I can get a bottle of my own. September 1st is just around the corner.
Edit: October, the travel sets have come in, and that’s the format I bought it in. Sergio expects travel refills to be in by December.

The fragrance notes are:

bergamot, nutmeg, saffron, cardamom, coriander, raspberry, blue chamomile, honey, olibanum, cedar, oak, tobacco accord, patchouli, vanilla, almond and labdanum.

I have a fuller list, by category, of the notes, but I need to find where it disappeared after I got home. When I put my hands on it, or call Sergio again, I will update this post — that will teach me not to review a perfume right away!

Updated! I found it!

Fresh Note: Bergamot
Aromatic note: Blue Chamomile
Spice Notes: Cardamon, coriander, saffron
Tobacco Notes: honey, cedarwood, vanilla almond
Amber Notes: Vetyver, Cistus, Patchouli, oakmoss

Every time I use my sample, it is delicious. I put it on my wrists last night (dabbed, not spritzed, as my sample is not a spray.) It smells just as good 10-12 hours later.

Amy Winehouse’s album Back to Black, might be an inspiration. I truly hope she gets her act together. She is not a role model for me, but I love her voice. OTOH, Back to Black is a clever name for another black masterpiece. And the name aphrodisiac gives us a sense of another layer in the story of Love, Kilian style.

What message does it send?
Aphrodisiac alludes to the sensual nature of this fragrance, and of the hope that it represents and enhances our own sense of sensuality, either as we perceive ourselves or as others perceive us. This is a classical, lush, and rich sensuality; it is not skanky, no, no, no. We won’t go to rehab over this scent.

Perhaps the message it sends is: I feel rich, not I feel pretty.

I am elegant and lovely/handsome (rich, like fine wine, not money). I know who I am, and I want you to know it too. I’m not in your face, but you can’t miss me. I am everything I ever hoped I would be and more. Can you feel it too? I am confident, but not ridiculous. What you see is what you get, but still there is mystery to unfold and develop.

Cary Grant…

Tobacco Notes
I happen to like tobacco notes, for they remind me of the smell of my uncle’s pipe, and thus conjure up a sense of familial love and older times, when loved ones were still on the scene, and we had family get-togethers for birthdays and holidays.

How does it compare to Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille?
This tobacco is a gentler version of Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanillle, which is just what it says: tobacco and vanilla.

Considered a smooth oriental, and it certainly is smooth, Tobacco Vanille’s notes are:

top:tobacco leaf and aromatic spice notes.
heart:tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa
base: a dry fruit accord, enriched with sweet wood sap.

B2B is less sweet and more complex. There are times when I’m not as enamored with Tobacco Vanille as I am at other times, but so far, Back to Black is satisfying every time I wear it.

Who can wear B2B?
B2B is suitable for either men or women. I don’t see it as unisex, because I generally cannot wear unisex, whereas I can wear some men’s fragrances. Unisex is generally neither here nor there, evidently, for me or else it is too masculine.

Have you had a chance to try it yet?
If you get a chance, pun intended again, do yourself a favor and at least sample this fragrance. Let me know what you think. I think you’ll love it.

Sergio told me I was very lucky to be there the day they received only one bottle, and that I would be the first anywhere to try it outside of the SAs. I doubt I was the first, but I might have been one of the first — and especially in this store. Contact Sergio, the expert on Kilian at SAKs in Las Vegas, Sergio_Gonzalez2@S5A.com or 702-967-1266, for all your Kilian needs. Be sure to tell him that you heard about him from me.

You can see an overview of Kilian fragrances here.

Karin
www.savvythinker.com

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When only orange will do

I got to thinking about the favorite summer fragrances I recently posted and realized I have a number of sweet orange fragrances which I have talked about in the past. I decided to update it.

There are times when I hanker after orange in perfumes. I don’t care for orange blossom in most fragrances because white florals usually take a nasty turn on me; it is the sweet orange of the juice that I want to wear for fragrance.

Citrus is a top note, a fleeting concept, quick to disappear, leaving the other notes to anchor the fragrance. But when it lingers, it is enjoyable. It is a precursor to spring and refreshing in the summer.

When orange juice is in season and fresh from the grove, squeezed in such a way to eliminate all bitterness from the skin or pulp, it is sunshine in a glass. This is the fragrance I want. I have bought cream and lotion from the grove. They are delightfully fragrant, but not long lasting. And it tends to smell more like an orange creamsicle than just orange. The only edp they sell is orange blossom, which I do not wear.

Some of my favorites in this category are:

L’Occitane Ruban d’Orange Eau de Toilette, new for the holidays in 2006, is rich in the natural essential oils of citrus fruits from the Mediterranean. The spray edt is not particularly sweet and could easily be worn by a man. I especially love the the Shower Gel which is enriched with softening pulp concentrate and the Soft Skin Milk. Both of these are sweeter than the edt. You can find these either at a L’Occitane store or through their website. I like the lotion.

I Love Love Cheap and Chic by Moschino is a sweet orange scent with notes of Grapefruit, Orange, Lemon, Redcurrant, Tea Rose, Lily of the Valley, Cinnamon Leaves, Musk, Cedar, Tonka Wood. The only notes I smell are the citrus, mostly orange. It is light and effervescent.

Couture by Moschino is a headier citrus scent. It has notes of Bergamot, Mandarin, Pepper, Peonies, Jasmine Pomegranate Flower, Poppy Seed, Vanilla, Cedarwood. The Bergamot and Mandarin waft through the fragrance, but are less predominant than they are in I Love Love.

Sonoma Scent Studio is another company that I love. Laurie’s fragrances are lovely. Her Constant Comment scent smells like Constant Comment tea, but is sweetly orange throughout, while anchored with the cinnamon. I hope she offers it again.

Mandragore By Annick Goutal is lush and fresh, woody and elegant with notes of Bergamot, mandrake (which makes it quite unique), black pepper, and ginger. It’s one of my favorites and lasts well. This is the same for men and women. The only difference is the bottle.

While in a drug store in Innsbruck, I found fragrances by Accord Parfait. They are quite inexpensive. I bought 3 of them. One is a chypre: The Noir and Bergamote. It is quite lovely, but is more black tea than bergamot, as the bergamot leaves the fragrance. This is another one that could easily be worn by a man.

The Body Shop has an energizing Bergamot Body Mist. It is lovely to add to others to give them a boost, but extremely fleeting.

Bigarade Concentree by Frederic Malle, created by Jean-Claude Ellena has notes of Bitter Orange, Cardamom, Pepper, Rose, Hay, Aldehyde. It is a lovely fragrance, but not very long lasting.

Victoria Secret’s Very Sexy Now is full of blood orange … plus notes of pineapple juice, hazelnut leaf, purple freesia, peony, nutmeg, sandalwood, grapefruit wood, tonka bean, and vanilla. Unfortunately it was a limited edition, so I don’t know how easy it will be to find. I still love it! I did not care for the body oil in this. It had lovely sparkle, but was very oily. The fragrance dissipated too quickly in the oil form. There are a number of similar reincarnations.

Theorema by Fendi smells like chocolate oranges with notes of jasmine, amber,vanilla, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood.

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Sanguine Muskissime has notes of Morrocan blood oranges, bergamot and tangerine with musk. On me, the musk is predominant and spoils it for me.

Do you like orange? what do you wear in it?

Karin

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SOTD Review Guerlain L’Instant Magic

Today I decided to begin the day with Guerlain L’Instant Magic. This is a very nice, soft fragrance, but long lasting. I can still smell it hours later, though I could layer up, if I wanted to.

Magic was a limited edition perfume from 2007 by perfumer Randa Hammami who also worked as an assistant to the perfumer of the original L’Instant.

It is considered a woody floral musk. This is a range I can wear.

Sylvaine Delacourte issued the following statement at the time:

This new Instant has no filiation with the original L’Instant in its genesis except for a sensation of freshness that cuts across the composition. The first one is a floriental while L’Instant Magic expresses a different type of sensuality thanks to the white musks and the woods. I have nicknamed it the Muscinade in a playful reference to the Guerlinade because both have this typical Guerlain ADN, which means an audacious overdose of certain raw materials, very beautiful natural ingredients that confer a signature and a sillage that are immediately recognizable.

Notes include:

bergamot, rose, freesia, white musk, cedar, sandalwood, with almond accord.

While some feel they can sense or smell a link or reminiscence to the original L’Instant, I thankfully cannot, at least as it opens and progresses. I like L’Instant in theory, but cannot wear it. It is much too sweet and strong.

I wear L’Instant for men which has some chocolate in it, but not the chocolate from Iris Ganache.

Perhaps Magic is the way it smells on others who love L’Instant, with the addition of almond.

I like almond fragrances. I also have YSL Cinema, which is drier and more almondy on me. Magic is a bit sweeter with more floral aura.

The good thing is that you can sometimes find Magic discounted now, if you move fast enough, because once perfumistas get the news, they empty the shelves.

There is some wonderment over just how the discounters get Magic, because it isn’t supposed to be discounted. Did it fall off the back end of a truck? Is it available discounted because the distributors resell the product returned to them from department stores that no longer carry it?

I don’t know. Maybe both; maybe neither; maybe something else altogether.

And you can get it (not discounted) from Guerlain at the Palazzo from Claire. That’s the way to go if you want it now, and it’s your only source. Call (702) 732-7008 or email GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com.

For a light fragrance, it has surprising lasting power. It is still there, deeper than at the beginning, the almond and woods taking over with a hint, the teeniest ever of the original L’Instant in the far, far background.

Do you wear L’Instant Magic? or any other almond fragrance?

What fragrance are you wearing today? will you switch this evening?

Karin

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Review Kilian Cruel Intentions Tempt Me

Cruel Intentions is a fragrance I’ve found surprisingly to my taste. Well, maybe not surprising, but it wasn’t my first choice. I find I love it. And perhaps it should have been my first choice!

Again, *Sergio Gonzalez is the expert on the line at SAKs in Las Vegas, and he will be happy to help you. Phone 702-967-1266. Be sure to tell him you heard it from me. He will take good care of you!

Kilian says:

A fragrance inspired by the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be « worth more than its weight in gold ». Perfumer : Sidonie Lancesseur

I’ve heard it said that it gets stronger on some, but on me it just stays softly resinous. I love the scent as it softens, and I love the bit that is on my clothes. I spray my wrist and arm, then transfer to the other arm and wrist. And I spritz my neck.

The notes are:

Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil,
Floral notes: violet accord, centifolia rose absolute,
Woody notes: agarwood (here is the oud again), Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood,
Animalic notes: styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.

This is not a sweet vanilla; it is more of a dry vetiver. It is so precisely blended that I cannot really separate the notes. Occasionally I get a glimpse of violets in the woods. Mostly it is a very wearable animalic fragrance. It is soft enough to be worn day or night by both men or women.

Sergio considers it the most complex of Kilian’s fragrances. I don’t know about that, but it is quite, quite lovely. My over all impression includes a leathery dry down, though leather is not listed as one of the notes.

This is a fragrance that has a double meaning in the name: likely if someone is being tempted, there are cruel intentions in that temptation.

But I don’t find this fragrance cruel or cutting. It gets under your skin and becomes an ambiance. The sweetness that is there is not sugary, but resinous. It’s even a little bit boozy, as I find his other fragrances. I find this particularly interesting, as Kilian is heir to the Hennessey cognac family.

Have you tried it? Do you love it? I bought this in the travel set.

It may be that I end up liking it as well as or more than Love, don’t be shy.

You can see an overview of all his fragrances here.

Karin

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October Launch: Guerlain Boise Torride

Boise Torride is coming October 15, 2009, unless the launch date changes as has happened with some. And Boise Torride is how the Guerlain paperwork spells it.

According to the paperwork, courtesy of Claire at the Palazzo Las Vegas location, here’s the scoop.

Words associated with this fragrance are:

woody, rebellious, provocative, triumphant, bold and beautiful

Sounds good already!

And the notes:

top: bergamot, tangerine, pink berries
middle: marshmallow harmony, orange blossom, jasmine
base: patchouli, white musk, cedar

Marsh mellow makes me think of Mariah Carey’s fragrance. Nothing wrong with marshmallow there.

It sounds like a good mix between old and new. Time will tell!

What do you think?
Does this sound like one you will try? I’ve never really met a Guerlain that wasn’t better than others with similar notes. The trick for me will be the orange blossom, as that is something that I usually have difficulties with. I look forward to trying this one just the same.

Karin

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Review: Guerlain The Voyage Collection

Updating: I’ve had a chance to sample these. Thanks to Kyler, Claire and Jorganne at Guerlain, Shoppes at the Palazzo, Suite 2848, Las Vegas. They make any trip to Vegas a good time!

It’s no secret that Guerlain is probably my most favorite perfume house. I was very pleased to get a chance to sniff these.

Claire sent me these pictures to share with you:

Photobucket

Called The Voyage Collection, the perfumes celebrate 3 great cities- Moscow, New York and Tokyo. They are $220.00 each.

Here’s what Guerlain has to say about them:

At Guerlain, it is a tradition. Crossing borders. Encountering new places. Discovering unfamiliar, exotic essences. Capturing the soul of a place by uncovering the emotional enchantment of its raw elements.

In 1828, pioneer and visionary Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain already understood the importance of travelling the world in search of new fragrance sensations. More than just innovative scents, he offered an escape, a voyage for the senses.

“A perfumer must go looking for scents,” observes Jean-Paul Guerlain. And today, in the grand Guerlain tradition of exploring the world’s riches, he has created a travel diary of scents, three new fragrances that pay homage to three fascinating cities: Moscow, New York and Tokyo.

They go on to say the following:

Three evocative fragrances that convey the identity and the heartbeat of these electrifying metropolises. Three liquid memories, presented in bottles embellished with drawings by sculptor Serge Mansau and topped with metal caps embossed with the emblematic double G. For each bottle, graphic artist Carla Talopp has devised a log, a scrapbook of cards, images, drawings, iconicphotos and symbols of the spirit of each city.

Here’s the scoop on the three fragrances:
Moscow
Have you been there? I’ve not been to Moscow, but I’ve been to St. Petersburg.

Moscow has awakened. Sleeping Beauty has opened her eyes, and her heart is fluttering. Moscow the serious has reinvented itself as Moscow the prosperous. Here and there, a hammer and sickle engraved on a building façade remind passers-by of its recent, restless history. But today, a fresh chapter is beginning. Each month, almost every day, Moscow’s inhabitants write a new paragraph.They celebrate the arrival of a luxury boutique or a lavish restaurant.Women vie with one another in elegance. Businessmen bustle about. All of them are part of the metamorphosis of a capital city that proudly displays its new modernity…

Moscow’s notes:
This one is my favorite! Just yummy!

With its musk, fruit and wood notes,…vanilla and bergamot …red currants..hint of absinthe, a sparkling lemon, a note of plum…pine needles.

And if you’d like a scent description to carry you away:

…ultra-feminine Paris-Moscow perfume echoes the heart beat that pounds through the Russian capital. This city throbs with life! Strolling through the opulent shopping arcades of the GUM, you are intoxicated by the heady fragrance of white musk and tonka bean. A carnal, sensual and elegant trace of vanilla and bergamot stays with you as you cross the Red Square. As you pass the Bosco Café, a sudden aroma of red currants delights your senses. The Moscow locals are enjoying their brunch, sipping their favourite beverage. Your senses stirred, you head off for some refreshment at the Botanical Gardens. A welcome respite. You close your eyes and watch as images from the day parade past. Electrified, you take in the hint of absinthe, a sparkling lemon, a note of plum. In the distance, you glimpse a verdant forest of pine needles. You can still hear the heart of Moscow beating.

How about New York!
New York, New York!
Woody Oriental

How many films, books and lyrics have sung the praises of the city where anything is possible? A land of dreams and pioneers, the Big Apple welcomes your deepest desires and craziest ambitions. This remarkable city boasts countless styles and atmospheres. A melting pot of communities and personalities, it evokes greatness with its skyscrapers, broad avenues and financial centre. At the same time, it cherishes its ‘villages’: Little Italy, Chinatown, theWestVillage with its tree-lined streets, low-built houses and tiny restaurants crowded with regulars. Day and night,New York is always bustling. Here, a young woman arrives at the gym as the clock strikes midnight. There, a man and his dog share dinner by the first light of dawn. Only in New York…

Notes:
I didn’t find this one particularly sweet. It certainly is apt for a man.

Sparkling and sweet…vanilla, cinnamon, cedar, cardamon, bergamot.

A scent description:

A woody oriental fragrance, sparkling and sweet, Paris-New York excites the tastebuds by transporting the senses to the heart of Manhattan on Christmas Eve. From the elegant Uptown to bohemian Downtown, children are dreaming of their Christmas pudding.Their nostrils quiver. Smells of vanilla and cinnamon float out of kitchen windows. A joyful frenzy of holiday anticipation reigns on Broadway, whose lights seem to sparkle with a new radiance. A pause; serious Wall Street goes quiet. The pedestrians on 5th Avenue finish their last errands.The sky is still the luminous, cloudless blue of a New York winter. The celebrations will start in just a few hours. Already, the air is thick with a scent of cedar, cardamom and bergamot.

Tokyo
Green and floral, fresh and delicate, subtle

Some say that you must see Tokyo before you die.To them, the capital of the Land of the Rising Sun is a required destination. A ground to tread. An atmosphere to soak in. An experience to live, no matter what. Tokyo fascinates, Tokyo charms, Tokyo intrigues, Tokyo intimidates. Tokyo leaves no one untouched. The surprising, completely alien metropolis embodies ultimate modernity.Tokyo is a dense ant hill, gradually stealing from the sea and sky what it can no longer find on the earth.The most daring architects eagerly orchestrate these extensions into space.

The city is immense; it offers an invitation to lose yourself and discover its contrasting districts, smaller cities within a city, which fit together like the animated pieces of a giant puzzle.

Notes:
This one is definitely a tea scent along the lines of the various teas from several different perfume companies. I like this one better though. If you like tea scents, you will love this one.

green and floral, jasmine, violet, cypress, tea and jasmine

And a scent desription:

Green and floral, fresh and delicate, Paris-Tokyo evokes all the subtlety of the Japanese capital.Willful, yet subtle. Ultra-modern, yet bound to its traditions.The sun is still low in the sky; it is the perfect time to awaken your senses in Hibiya Park, a rare green space designed with a Western aesthetic.Very few people are walking; you pass mainly joggers. As you stroll along a pond, the morning dew gives off a fragrance of jasmine and violet, intertwined with Hinoki cypress.You stop in a teahouse, slipping out of the stream of time into a cocoon of tranquility in the midst of turmoil. In this world apart where green tea and jasmine scent the air, you allow yourself be transported by the legendary, almost magical tea-drinking tradition. It is with regret that you leave the ceremony you wish could last forever. But Ginza, the Champs-Elysées of Tokyo, is already calling your name.”

Have you tried these?
Did you buy (any of) them? Which is your favorite?

How can you order them?
Phone: (702) 732-7008 (ask for Claire) or
Email: GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com

Karin

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Review: Just Cavalli Her

Just Cavalli Her by Roberto Cavalli was introduced in 2004 for Women. It is considered an oriental floral.

When I wear it, I don’t get too much from it except for sweet vanilla — and the vanilla lasts through the entire fragrance. Getting stronger, if that is possible, which of course it is, because it is one of the base notes, which means it shows up at or through the end.

Top: Sicilian Bergamot, Ceylon Cinnamon, Bamboo Leaves,
Heart: Wild Lily Of The Valley, Apricot Tree Flower, Sambac Jasmine,
Base:Golden Amber, Madagascar Vanilla, Lebanese White Cedarwood, Powdery Musk

It is one of the nicer vanillas out there, but I have to be in the mood for it because it is vanilla.

This is not the sultry vanilla of Shalimar, and it isn’t a particularly gourmand vanilla, like white cake.

On the whole, it is sweet. I prefer it not so close to my face. I should have spritzed my leg, not my arm.

As soon as I could, I switched to another fragrance — to Light Blue — to get away from the sweetness. I needed a little tart to go with it.

Is this a fragrance that you wear?

When do you wear it? I think it would have served me better on a fall night, not a summer morning. I was engulfed in a vanilla dream. I don’t think I’m quite that sweet!

Karin

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Review Guerlain 2009 Cherry Blossom

Oh, this is a nice fragrance! And it’s even better that it’s priced at only $57, from the Aqua Allegoria line.

Cherry Blossom is being billed as a

floral green fragrance (Frangrantica).

It also has some green tea in it, which is generally off-putting to me and puts it more squarely into a masculine feeling scent that I usually cannot wear. (I do wear masculine scents, just not ones with tea.) But in this fragrance the green tea takes a back seat and never takes over the fragrance the way, say, Arden’s Green Tea does. I don’t discern that it is there.

Notes: bergamot, green tea, cherry tree flower, cherry, peach, powder accord.

I think I like this fragrance because I have nothing exactly like it. Generally department store fruity fragrances smell so artificial on me that I think, bleh. On the other side, vintage Rochas Femme (peach) is one I wear less well than vintage Madame Rochas (love this still.)

But this one seems to sit well, albeit it is short lasting, which is OK by me, because I like to change fragrances as the day goes on.

A few years ago I bought a Guerlain Cherry Blossom parfum, then never really wore it, because it was so sweet. Unfortunately, I believe much of it has evaporated from the bottle, despite being in the dark. The bottle is undeniably cute, but it was too much money to spend for something I never wore. Nonetheless, I’m glad I have it, and there is still some in it. I just wouldn’t buy it again.

Because this version is light, I envision spritzing a pretty heavy dose. I’m dabbing my sample liberally. But, you know, if it makes me happy, go for it!

How it makes me feel
There is a carefree, luminescent quality to it. It makes me happy and light hearted. I can always use a heavy dose of that~

What do you think?
Have you smelled this? Do you wear it? Have you worn any other of the Guerlain Cherry Blossoms?

Where to buy this?
If it were me, I’d call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. There is no sales tax and no shipping charge for mailing in the US. (I think you’d pay tax if you lived in Nevada.) (I can’t speak for international shipping.) I’m letting him know today that this is one I want to have.

They are the best in this store. I was recently at the boutique in the Breakers. They were nice, but it doesn’t compare.

Let me know if you decide to buy it, and tell them you heard it from me.

Karin

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Review: Halle by Halle Berry

What a surprise to run into this at CVS tonight. And it was a lot better price than one place I found it for online. And then I used my CVS coupons…even better!

Quelle surprise! I liked this fragrance enough to buy it on the first try. Oh no! Will I still like it in the morning? It’s been a few hours now, and I still like it.

It’s warm and oriental, but not sickly sweet. It seems to be well balanced in that nothing is predominately strong in it. Halle is said to like to layer her own fragrances, thought to be two L’artisan’s of fig and mimosa. Whatever! The notes work together beautifully.

Top notes are: bergamot, fig leaves and pear blossom;
heart notes are: freesia petals, hibiscus flower and a new-sounding accord or molecule, “Ultra Mimosa”;
base notes are: sandalwood, driftwood, cashmere musk, olibanum absolute, and sensual amber.

On me, the fragrance doesn’t particularly move, but it softens. I don’t notice anything distinct between the top notes to the base notes. It has gourmand elements. It reminds me a bit of Yves Rocher’s Cocoon, but it is less heavy.

The structure of the fragrance is supposed to have both

transparency and texture, freshness and sensuality.

This is exactly what is missing in Cocoon for me. It is neither transparent nor fresh, but rich and heady.

Halle takes this richness, but adds a lightness to it. Perhaps it is the mimosa. I smell some dark chocolate, even though it isn’t listed in the notes.

I picture myself enjoying a cafe au lait or a cup of chocolat along a street in Paris, people watching, just as I enjoyed watching the audio slide shows of Bill Cunningham’s Paris fashion updates. I am warmed by the spring sun, as well as my fragrance that is wrapping me around. The breeze is cool. The day is lovely.

Have you tried this yet?
What do you think?

My take:
Well, I bought it. I think she has a winner. So far, I love it. C’est vrai!

Karin

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Scent impressions on a hot day The Different Company Part 3

Between L’artisan and Serge Lutens were testers from The Different Company. Since I love Bois d’Iris, I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to at least try one of them.

Bois d’Iris notes
iris (iris pallida aka “the Fastuous” or iris florentina), vetiver, bergamot, cedar wood, narcissus, geranium, musk

I decided to sample Un Parfum des Sens et Bois as much because I like woodsy notes as that I like several of Serge Lutens ‘Bois’ fragrances.

Un Parfum des Sens et Bois notes
Chinese Cedarwood, White Violet, Black Pepper, Elemi, Ginger, Patchouli, Vervain, Bergamot, and Incense.

Of the ones I tried, this was not on my list of favorites. It was more pungent than it was sweet or spicy. The predominate notes on me were pepper, ginger and incense. It was more masculine than I usually wear, and I would love to smell it on a man.

So there you have it, three companies sampled in one day. At least two that were bottle worthy. I might order decants before I get down to smell these in person again. I wish I had them tonight!

Karin

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Scent impressions on a hot day Serge Lutens Part 2

Moving on to Serge Lutens from L’artisan:

Ahhhh… Oh my. This is the first time I’ve seen so many Lutens fragrances in one place since I was in Paris. On that trip I was overwhelmed by the choices, didn’t really know the offerings, and felt confused enough not to make a choice. Then a generous POL’er (you know who you are) sent me from Europe a wonderful selection of sample vials so that I could really try them at my leisure. I went on to order several decants and a couple of partial bottles.

This week I sampled Rousse, Datura Noir, and Miel de Bois.

Miel de Bois is practically straight honey. I prefer L’Occitane’s Honey and Lemon which has less honey predominating:

Miel de Bois:
Notes of honey and woods with top notes of ebony, gaiac and oak wood, middle notes of honey and bottom notes of beeswax, iris and hawthorn.

Honey and Lemon:
lemon and citrus fruit, golden honey, vanilla and caramel scents.

I liked this Datura Noir quite a bit, but I have Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Secrete Datura* and while not the same, it gave me pause to think of getting this one. I look forward to putting it on skin again, and comparing it to SD.

Datura Noir

Notes of myrrh, bitter almond, tonka bean, and musk, heliotrope, mandarin, lemon flower, and tuberose, vanilla, coconut oil, and apricot.

My favorite of what I tried was Rousse . I fell in love with this one, but I would want to sample it comparing it to Fou d’Absinthe on my next trip, unless I simply decide to bite the bullet and get both. Rousse was created by Chris Sheldrake. Cinnamon is one of my favorite spices, so to have it in a fragrance that is more than gourmand, is a delight.

I expected it to be like Chypre Rouge, which I find masculine, but it is not. Rousse is certainly wearable by a man; it is equally wearable for me.

Rousse
notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.

Now, I would be completely happy concerning fragrance if I had one or both of the ones I loved — but then would I be on the hunt for more? Yes, probably, but I’ve resigned myself to the knowledge that there are so many new offerings that it is impossible to test all of them. I must be satisfied with the few.

There were a couple Lutens I didn’t care for, but I didn’t write their names on the cards, and I am having trouble recognizing the names as I look for them, so I will have to have an addendum when I sample them again.

Karin

Secrete Datura’s notes:

Notes: Datura, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Chocolate

Top: intermingles the lily, heliotrope and lemon.
Mid: jasmin, honeysickle, wallflower and orange blossom,
base: iris, vanilla, chocolate, and sandalwood.

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Scent impressions on a hot day L’Artisan Part 1

This week when I headed to a major city a few hours away, I thought I’d check out the perfumes at Neiman Marcus, because I knew they had L’Artisan and also Serge Lutens. The last time I was in a NM closer to home, they had neither.

I planned to treat myself, but ended up not choosing anything, because my idea of what I thought I wanted was different from what my sense of smell was telling me. I’ll check them out again, before I decide, and by then, a decant might be enough until I really know that what I want is FBW. The SA was helpful to me without being pushy. She was happy to let me spray cards and give some thought to the selections.

I sampled the following L’Artisan’s: Timbuktu, Passage d’enfer, La Chasse Aux Papillion, and Fou d’Absinthe. They didn’t have Dzing ! or Dzongkha or Poivre Piquant or Ananas Fizz (I love this one and might have bought more) or Navegar in a tester, unless they were in another location.

My favorite of the ones I tested was Fou d’Absinthe, which smelled lush and spicy. I don’t know what I expected, but I didn’t expect this would be my favorite. I have never had Absinthe, so I don’t know how well it compares. I only know it was spicy and delicious, without being heavy or overbearing. It was a delightful surprise.

Fou d’Absinthe
Notes: absinthe, angelica, blackcurrant buds, star anise, four-spices, patchouli, pine needles, labdanum, fir balsam
Perfumer: Olivia Giacobetti

Passage d’enfer is a fragrance well beloved by many, but I can’t smell it on me –or on the card — or it is so light that it operates below my radar. To my knowledge, so far, it is the only fragrance I’ve ever smelled that I can’t smell. I had hoped that in larger quantities, I might be able to smell it. OTOH, if I would have had to use so much in order to smell it that it would have knocked out anyone around me who could smell it, it would not have been good! It is said to be incensy and hypnotic, but you couldn’t prove it by me. Can you smell this one? Do you wear it? What category of fragrance do you usually wear?

Passage d’Enfer
Notes : white lily, frankincense, aloe, white musk

I was already familiar with Timbuktu, and I like it because it is spicy which I love, but it is similar to others I have, so I would prefer something different; I just wasn’t sure what. I was willing to spritz it again to see if it called my name.

La Chasse aux Papillion is one that is loved by many people, so I wanted to sample it. I have to be careful, because it is mostly white flowers, but it is different enough that I think I can get away with it. I was, however, afraid to try it on my skin because of how this category reacts on me. I might try it on skin the next time, but I likely would buy something spicy.

La Chasse aux Papillons
Chasing Butterflies!

Notes: bergamot, lemon, pink pepper, orange blossom, lemon blossom, linden blossom, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Perfumer: Anne Flipo

I was surprised they didn’t have Ananas Fizz, simply because it is a lovely summer time fragrance. I’ve reviewed it before. Perhaps they had it to sell, but not to sample. It is subtle and elegant, not fruity or too sweet.

Notes: Pink Grapefruit, Bitter orange, Rum, Victoria Pineapple, Lychee Sap, Cocoa Milk and Vanilla.

Next I moved to the Serge Lutens counter. That will be my next post.

Karin

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