Entries Tagged 'Amber' ↓
February 9th, 2010 — Amber, Bergamot et al, Cartier, Guerlain, Perfume review, Perfumes, Tonka Bean, Woods
Spurred on by hearing a description of this on another, I reached for my bottle of Delices de Cartier parfum last night and decided to give it another go.
Generally speaking, I do not like cherry in a fragrance. I bought a bottle of Guerlain’s cherry a number of years ago, because I fell in love with the bottle, but it keeps refilling itself, for the few times I reach for it, it doesn’t seem to go down. Each year Guerlain has tweaked it a little, but I’ve only bought it once.
I find I’m gradually moving into another price range of perfumes. This one I resisted buying because of the price point and because I don’t usually care for cherry. (edt is either $75 or $105 and parfum is $160 — and of course, wouldn’t you know, the only one I liked really was the parfum. I’m not surprised that I like the best. I usually don’t go for parfums as I prefer sprays and I don’t notice a lot of difference, but in this one, the parfum is a spray and there is a difference.) I ended up trading for a partial bottle, which works just fine for me, as it is rare for me to finish a bottle. I’d rather have variety until I know how much I will reach for it.
Cartier’s fragrance, which means Delights, is packaged in one of the most beautiful bottles ever designed — a red and clear, cut-glass bottle topped with a flower centered with a large square crystal. With this fragrance they moved successfully into another fragrance type, that of the fruity/floral gourmand.
It’s notes are Iced Cherry (Morello), Sicilian Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Violet, pink, white and yellow Jasmine, Freesia, Amber, Tonka Bean, Musk, Sandalwood.
Last night, I kept coming back to smell my arm, and it was Delight-ful. At the same time, because it is not something I usually wear, it was a bit jarring to me and didn’t seem like ‘me.’ But I liked it well enough to give it a go again today.
I spritzed a small spritz before heading to the movies, transferred it from one arm to the other, and this time, it was lovely, not jarring. Imagine, when I came home, that my house smelled wonderful. (People always tell me it does, but I’m not able to identify what it is particularly.) This time, what I smelled under it all, was the small spritz I had spritzed, then walked down the hallway carrying the sillage with me. (No one remarked about the fragrance on me. I really do wear fragrance for myself. If I wore enough that others would particularly notice, I’d overwhelm myself.)
Because I loved the way the house smelled, I re-spritzed once more for the day. One tiny spritz — remember this is parfum!
In this fragrance, there is a difference between the edt and the parfum (which is a spray) (there is no edp). I prefer the parfum, as it is richer and deeper. The edt seemed brighter and less ‘real’ if that makes sense.
I don’t know how often I’ll reach for this one. Perhaps the constellation of stars must be in proper alignment. But when it works, it is a wonderful addition to their line that includes Must, Panthere, Le Baiser Du Dragon, and Eau de Cartier (Christine Nagle was the nose for that as well as for Délices — and they are really completely different, but equally compelling.)
I find the cherry neither tart nor sickeningly sweet. If you’ve ever eaten Rainier cherries, which I particularly love, that is the feeling I get from this fragrance. Rainier cherries are large with sweet flesh and are considered the best of the best. The skin is yellow to red. They sell for $1/each in Japan, but lucky for me, they are about $5 a pint here and are available only once a year. Considering that I don’t like cherries and I love these…I wait each year for the season, now that I’ve found them.
It’s no surprise that Cartier which is known for its opulence would choose an opulent cherry as well, for this is not a typical teen cherry…oh no, this is grown up, voluptuous, Delight-ful, complete with spirit and verve. This is a grown up woman, used to the best in life, who loves to experience life. Her gourmand fragrance is not chocolate. You better watch out for her — she’s a little bit saucy and unpredictable, but that only makes her interesting.
I’m with her.
Do you like this one?
Karin
Originally posted 2007-07-17 15:33:44.
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January 13th, 2010 — Amber, Comparing, Laura Mercier, Perfume review, Prada
Prada L’Eau Ambrée is one of the nicest new fragrances to come along in a long time. It has a luminous quality to it and is very wearable, for either men or women. Nice hardly does it justice.
Daniela Andrier is the perfumer. She also did Infusion d’Iris. There is a similarity between the two fragrances, but I find L’Eau Ambrée more interesting. It holds my attention. I don’t tire of it. I found the sameness of Infusion d’Iris to be grating after a while — and it would get distressingly stronger.
L’Eau Ambrée is soft, but long lasting. It is said to be
graceful…empowering but never demanding.
Perhaps this should describe the ideal me!
Oddly enough, graceful, empowering, never demanding are words I could easily use to describe this fragrance, along with luminous, luminosity, sheer and enveloping. Discretely sexy and sensual. And however Andrier has modernized amber, it works. At least for me. There is even a hint of saltiness or sea air to it.
L’Eau Ambrée notes:
modernized amber, lemon and May rose essences, patchouli, oppoponax and vanilla.
Amber is usually very heady, rich and sweet. This is airy, but it has definite presence. It is light enough to wear anywhere, even out to dinner, but it has enough presence that I can smell it hours later, and I can catch nuances on my clothes. I use very little, as always, one squirt, maybe two. I might think it is gone, then I turn just right and catch this amazing fragrance that is more than gentle and less than the freshness in Infusion d’Iris.
I have not had good luck with Laura Mercier’s Amber Passion, which turned out to be a scrubber on me. At the time, the SA told me that they were told in sales meetings that it would either be wearable or not wearable. It started out very good, but did not stay that way on me. This was the first time I’d ever heard that amber could be either good or bad. Of course, that is true for any fragrance, which should be tried on skin for that reason. But if a fragrance starts out good, it’s generally not such an either-or proposition. But since that time I have been very careful with amber fragrances. The ones I wear are rich and sweet — I wear them at night or in winter; L’Eau Ambrée fills a different niche.
Amber Passion notes:
Top: labdanum, vanilla and geranium; middle: amber, tonka bean and patchouli; base: sandalwood, musk and cedar.
I suspect that different molecules were used for these two ambers.
My take
I find myself reaching for L’Eau Ambrée as my go-to everyday fragrance right now. I knew immediately that it was something I would enjoy, and I am not disappointed. As usual, I waited about 1/2 hour to make sure it stayed true. It is different from anything else I wear.
I think you could layer it nicely, though I haven’t tried that yet.
If you like amber, but are looking for a lighter version of amber, but one that has presence, give this one a try.
Is this one that you wear?
Have you tried this one? What do you think?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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December 30th, 2009 — Aldehyde, Amber, Iris, Jasmine, Perfume review, Perfumes, Vanilla, Woods
I must have been sleeping whenever this fragrance was discussed, because I only happened upon mention of it the other day when I was surfing for decants and samples. It seems to be one that is either liked or not — there’s no happy medium.
And it’s important to know that there is nothing remotely like Vol de Nuit in this fragrance except for borrowing the name.
What I’ve noticed over time is that if you can wear Mitsouko or Vol de Nuit — and like them — then you might not like L’Heure Bleu or vice versa. That might be a way you could determine if you would like this or not, short of ordering a small sample.
I like Vol De Nuit a lot, and often layer it up as the notes soften during the day, starting with Chant d’Aromes, passing through Chamade or Mitsouko or both, and ending with Vol de Nuit at night, so I thought I’d like to give this a shot.
LHB is definitely not one of my faves, but I wear it occasionally.
I received my sample in today’s mail and immediately sniffed and put some on my wrist.
The notes are peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.
And while these notes are common to a lot of Guerlain fragrances, they are put together in a different way in this one. I don’t get any peach at all — it isn’t a bit like Femme by Rochas, for example. And it isn’t a chypre at all.
On me, it starts out aldehydic with lots of powdery overtures. As that softens, it moves into a more animalic phase which has been described as smelling of sweat (which I do not get) or marine (salty, I’m guessing — I do get a bit of salt in it). Underneath it all is iris, almost as sweet as in Iris Ganache, without the chocolate that puts it into the too sweet category for me. It reminds me of the iris in Prada Infusion d’Iris. In the drydown I get amber and woods, but no vanilla. It’s there, but so minute as not to be particularly discernible.
So, there you have it. I will try it in a heavier dose a bit later today to see how that develops and compare it to Guet-Apens/Attrape-Coeur, which I have a bit of. It has also been compared to 31 Rue Cambon by Chanel, which I have never smelled. If you have that one, you might try comparing and let me know.
Vol de Nuit Evasion has been available in airport stores. You can also find it at ThePerfumedCourt.
Karin
Originally posted 2008-06-20 13:30:42.
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October 20th, 2009 — Amber, Musk, Perfume review, Violet
Geste by Humiecki & Graef can be found at Lucky Scent $220 for 100 ml or $4 for .7 ml.
Notes: soft amber, musk, soft violet petals, soft fir resin
This fragrance is interestingly different.
I particularly liked this quotation in the description of it:
Geste is about the intensity of quiet things. Lucky Scent
We don’t often think of quiet things as having an intensity, but sometimes their intensity is stronger in a sense than something that is overtly intense and loud. Think of a quiet, sleeping baby. There is an intensity felt when looking at that child sleeping. We are drawn into it.
Likewise, this fragrance is subtly present, even though its individual parts are soft and quiet. For example, some ambers are so strong and potent, that they overtake everything in their wake. This amber is soft and simply present.
The fragrance morphs rather quickly from a soft, blended fragrance into its individual notes being distinguishable. First, the violet comes to the fore, a bit powdery. It is never a strictly sweet floral, however, the way BBW Violet Bouquet is only violet. Very quickly a bit of the amber comes dancing across, along with the musk. Under it all is the resiny nature of the soft fir.
My take:
I am only dabbing. It’s hard to know how strong it would be if spritzed. As I’ve said before, I’m not really a wearer of floral perfumes. I tend more toward Orientals or woody/incense. Overall, this feels sweet to me. I’m enjoying the sample, but I don’t know if I would want a full bottle. I would certainly consider it, if I didn’t already have other fragrances that are in this family.
Do you wear this one?
Have you tried this one? Do you like it?
Karin
www.savvythiner.com
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October 8th, 2009 — Amber, mini review
Still testing samples passed on to me by a generous POLer.
Ambra Neraby Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 is available at Lucky Scent $160 for 100 ml or $7 for .7 ml.
Notes: cypress, eucalyptus, amber, benzoin, vetiver, vanilla, patchouly
For the past couple of days I’ve compared this to Patchouli by M. Micallef wearing one on each wrist. Ambra Nera is the softer of the two, but it is also significantly sweeter (today especially.) Generally I get patchouli out of it, but today I am getting lots of amber. I did do a more generous dab than on other days, so that might account for more amber and less patchouli.
If you like amber, you would likely like this. I have trouble wearing some ambers, but this is an amber I can wear. It isn’t overpowering. OTOH, I preferred it when I was getting patchouli out of it.
Does that help you or confuse you?
Do you wear this one?
Can you generally wear amber?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
don’t take entire posts of mine
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September 22nd, 2009 — Amber, Cedar, Jasmine, Musk, Perfume review, Woods
If you are like me, you have accumulated a number of sample vials, sprays and decants that languish like old friends. I felt it was time to dip (or dig) into them again.
But first I’m going to go through the samples sent to me along with an order from a very generous fellow perfumista.
Tobacco Scents
First, maybe you need to know I have never smoked. I don’t particularly like the smell of cigarettes, lingering or fresh, but I have always loved the scent of my uncle’s cherry pipe tobacco. A friend tells me that Shalimar never smelled as good on her as when she was smoking — the mix of Shalimar and smoke was divine.
Jasmine et Cigarette by Etat Libre D’Orange
This is a tobacco scent I could love. I dabbed, not sprayed.
Notes: A ‘smoky’ jasmine with tobacco, hay, turmeric, apricot, cedar, amber and musk
The folded note within the packaging mentions
smoky black and white ambiance…hazy atmosphere.
My take:
This is a lovely jasmine, sweetened with the faint hint of apricot, made less sweet-floral by the tobacco, hay, cedar, amber and musk. I don’t catch any amber but it contributes to the ambiance.
I don’t get any stale smoke smell which is sometimes apparent in other tobacco scents, rather this is an elegant woman (or man) walking into a room with more than a hint of tobacco and woods surrounding.
To me, the jasmine adds clarity. I don’t get the feeling of such tobacco haze that one can’t see to the other side of the room — I’ve been in rooms like that!
Is the tobacco in the room s/he is entering or is it on her/his clothes from the place s/he has been or who s/he has been with?
That is the mystery of the wisps of smoke running through the fragrance. A bit of 1930’s magic. I quite like it in small quantities. I don’t know about spritzing it.
I happen to have an apricot fragrance that I love, and it might be interesting to layer that over this in a while, to bring out more of the apricot. I think I will try that as it continues to soften. (Unfortunately when I tried it, it was an apricot chocolate fragrance, and the chocolate took over.)
Have you tried this one?
Karin
www.savvythinker.com
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June 17th, 2009 — Amber, Apple, Cedar, Dolce and Gabbana, Jasmine, Just thinking, Musk, Perfumes, Rose
Have you ever tried a Honeycrisp apple? I had never heard of them until visiting a friend in Michigan. I don’t think I’ve ever had a better apple.
They can be ordered online during their season, but I haven’t done it yet. And once I knew to look for them, I found them for short periods of time locally.
I used to eat Delicious apples, but they are a little soft to me now. I switched to Gala apples, when I tried them, which I now love. I had a hard time not buying a Gala in Michigan, but since the orchards are close to my friend’s house, I knew whatever I tried would be good.
Around here, good apples are scarce. By the time they get to us, they are bruised under the skin. It is citrus that is unbelievably good here because we are close to the groves. You have never had really good orange or grapefruit until you get them from the grove.
It’s no surprise that I enjoy notes of both citrus — especially sweet orange — and applies in perfumes, though I don’t consider myself one who likes artificial fruity perfumes. I don’t wear orange blossom well, though I like to smell it in the air around the groves.
Light Blue by Dolce and Gabbana, introduced in 2001, is a lovely, long lasting fragrance, and one I was complimented on recently. It is considered to be floral-fruity. It has the crisp sweetness of a real apple, coupled with woods and amber. I think it is calling to me today, though I’m not sure I will wear it.
top notes: Sicilian citron, bluebell, and granny smith
heart notes: jasmine sambac, bamboo, white rose
bottom: cedar wood, musk, amber
Others that have apple notes include: Pure White Linen (by Estee Lauder); Nirmala by Molinard (one version of this smells similar to Angel); Roberto Cavalli and Oro by Roberto Cavalli. Donna Karan has several apple fragrances, none of which I wear well. Burberry, Burberrys, and Old Burberry London have green apple in them — and vanilla.
Do you wear any of these?
Are you a fan of apples in your fragrances?
Karin
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June 17th, 2009 — Amber, Apple, Cedar, Dolce and Gabbana, Jasmine, Musk, Perfume review, Perfumes, Rose
I love to get perfume compliments but they are rare. For the most part, I wear perfume to please myself.
I am very careful in large groups or going to dinner or around people who can’t handle some fragrances. My husband can’t smell many perfumes so unless I put my arm under his nose directly, he usually is unaware. Another family member is quite sensitive, so it is rare that I wear any perfume around him. And a friend can’t handle any scents. She has to be extremely careful with shampoos or body soaps. For the most part she doesn’t even know I wear fragrance because by the time I’m around her, it’s been a while since I spritzed.
My younger children always say I smell good. But I’m talking about a genuine, grown up compliment. Those are worth waiting for.
Not too long ago I stopped in at place of business, then went back later for a second visit. The woman helping me asked me what I was wearing earlier, as everyone loved it and wanted to know what it was.
Interestingly enough, the last time I had worn this fragrance before, it bothered me because it just doesn’t quit, though I loved it, when I first bought it. So, I’ve not chosen to wear it for a while. I have to be in the mood to wear it all day or be very care to use very little. The day I didn’t enjoy wearing it, some note in it got stronger, instead of blending, and as I like to layer up, I got tired of it during the day, it never softened.
But yesterday it was so soft I couldn’t smell it without effort, so it surprised me that others could. After the second visit, I respritzed just because. That’s when my daughter wanted some.
I was wearing Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue 
.
Year Introduced: 2001
Scent Type: Floral – Fruity
top: Sicilian citron, bluebell, and granny smith
heart: jasmine sambac, bamboo, white rose
bottom: cedar wood, musk, amber
It really is a lovely fragrance. My 9 year old wanted some for herself, and then asked for it again after her shower. I think I might make her up a small spray of her own. I don’t know what was going on with it (or me) the day I didn’t like the way it wore me.
Maybe it needs to be summer and hot, hot, hot for it to wear well.
I wore it again yesterday after getting off to too sweet a start with Just Cavalli Her. It’s interesting that it shares some notes — but not the vanilla — and JC has lily of the valley in it. No wonder it blended so well.
I think I will wear it again today. I like the way the apple stays true in it, unlike other apple scents that go sharp and pungent on me. It is bright and happy, yet not artificial. It has enough other notes in it that keep it from being too sweetish. And it is a little bit tart, like me. Plus it held my interest all day yesterday, which is saying a lot — not to mention that it rescued me from all that vanilla in JC.
Do you wear it? Do you get compliments?
Karin
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June 17th, 2009 — Amber, Bergamot et al, Cavalli, Cedar, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Musk, Oriental, Perfume review, Vanilla
Just Cavalli Her by Roberto Cavalli was introduced in 2004 for Women. It is considered an oriental floral.
When I wear it, I don’t get too much from it except for sweet vanilla — and the vanilla lasts through the entire fragrance. Getting stronger, if that is possible, which of course it is, because it is one of the base notes, which means it shows up at or through the end.
Top: Sicilian Bergamot, Ceylon Cinnamon, Bamboo Leaves,
Heart: Wild Lily Of The Valley, Apricot Tree Flower, Sambac Jasmine,
Base:Golden Amber, Madagascar Vanilla, Lebanese White Cedarwood, Powdery Musk
It is one of the nicer vanillas out there, but I have to be in the mood for it because it is vanilla.
This is not the sultry vanilla of Shalimar, and it isn’t a particularly gourmand vanilla, like white cake.
On the whole, it is sweet. I prefer it not so close to my face. I should have spritzed my leg, not my arm.
As soon as I could, I switched to another fragrance — to Light Blue — to get away from the sweetness. I needed a little tart to go with it.
Is this a fragrance that you wear?
When do you wear it? I think it would have served me better on a fall night, not a summer morning. I was engulfed in a vanilla dream. I don’t think I’m quite that sweet!
Karin
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June 15th, 2009 — Amber, Avon, Musk, Perfume review
Avon makes some high end fragrances, and it also makes some lower end. I’m not necessarily talking about price. I’m talking about how they smell. Some are pungent; others are more demure. Most are long lasting. Some smell artificial on me; others are winners.
I’m an equal opportunist when it comes to fragrance. I wish I liked more inexpensive ones because I wear what I like, regardless of price.
Instinct is a lovely fragrance.
This is all I have on the notes:
A sultry oriental blend of sensuous musk and warm amber, with a whisper of exotic florals.
It smells wonderful from get go, and it stays wonderful. There is some movement. It’s not all same-o same-o.
My 13 year old’s unsolicited comment: You smell wonderful!
I do.
Yes, it’s sultry, but it’s not sleazy. It’s not heavy on the musk or amber. And the florals stay good on me. They must not be just white florals. It’s rather incensy on the whole. Just a great fragrance. It’s not too heady for hot weather, which is what we are having.
And how can you beat the price!
Maybe it makes me think of the islands or Cuba. Hot and sultry, in touch with life. Living la vita loca. Or La Dolce Vita. A little wild and crazy, but good, and definitely cool.
I’m going to spritz another spritz.
Do you wear Instinct?
Karin
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April 14th, 2009 — Amber, Bergamot et al, CVS, Fig leaves, Freesia, Halle Berry, Hibiscus, Pear blossom, Perfume review, Woods
What a surprise to run into this at CVS tonight. And it was a lot better price than one place I found it for online. And then I used my CVS coupons…even better!
Quelle surprise! I liked this fragrance enough to buy it on the first try. Oh no! Will I still like it in the morning? It’s been a few hours now, and I still like it.
It’s warm and oriental, but not sickly sweet. It seems to be well balanced in that nothing is predominately strong in it. Halle is said to like to layer her own fragrances, thought to be two L’artisan’s of fig and mimosa. Whatever! The notes work together beautifully.
Top notes are: bergamot, fig leaves and pear blossom;
heart notes are: freesia petals, hibiscus flower and a new-sounding accord or molecule, “Ultra Mimosa”;
base notes are: sandalwood, driftwood, cashmere musk, olibanum absolute, and sensual amber.
On me, the fragrance doesn’t particularly move, but it softens. I don’t notice anything distinct between the top notes to the base notes. It has gourmand elements. It reminds me a bit of Yves Rocher’s Cocoon, but it is less heavy.
The structure of the fragrance is supposed to have both
transparency and texture, freshness and sensuality.
This is exactly what is missing in Cocoon for me. It is neither transparent nor fresh, but rich and heady.
Halle takes this richness, but adds a lightness to it. Perhaps it is the mimosa. I smell some dark chocolate, even though it isn’t listed in the notes.
I picture myself enjoying a cafe au lait or a cup of chocolat along a street in Paris, people watching, just as I enjoyed watching the audio slide shows of Bill Cunningham’s Paris fashion updates. I am warmed by the spring sun, as well as my fragrance that is wrapping me around. The breeze is cool. The day is lovely.
Have you tried this yet?
What do you think?
My take:
Well, I bought it. I think she has a winner. So far, I love it. C’est vrai!
Karin
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March 7th, 2009 — Amber, Chanel, Guerlain, Heliotrope, Incense, Layering, Leather, Oriental, Patchouli, Perfume layering, Perfume review, Pink pepper, Vanilla, Woods
Sometimes the sum of two perfumes is greater than its parts. Such is the wonderful new mix that Claire Young from the Guerlain store in the Palazzo in Las Vegas came up with, when he was looking for a fragrance suitable for a woman who really doesn’t care for flowers.
I’d like to think that our trying to layer something with Iris Ganache sparked him to think of various combos. But that might be wrong.
He hit upon a winner: Bois D’Armenie mixed with (or layered with) and Cuir Beluga.
Here’s his description:
In my little fragrance lab of a boutique, I’ve found a new concoction I’m now adoring. It’s a combo of Cuir Beluga and Bois D’armiene…a mix of Chinese incense with vanilla notes…I’ve been wearing it a week now and adore.
He sent it off to me to see what I thought. It’s terrific!
Here are the notes:
Bois D’Armenie, an oriental woody fragrance for men:
Top notes are iris, pink pepper and incense;
middle notes are coriander, benzoin and guaiac wood;
base notes are patchouli, white musk.
Cuir Beluga:
fragrance notes include:
Leather, Mandarin, Everlasting Flower, Amber, Heliotrope, Vanille
He tells me he’s sold several of them (which, of course, involves two bottles.)
If you are lucky enough to have both on hand, try them. Or, if you own one and try the combo, you only have to buy the other one.
The one I have is an equal mix of both in one container. (I have done this with Chanel # 5 and Coco.)
What I think
This is a match made in heaven. Let me know if you try it — and how you like it. It certainly works for a man or a woman. And let me know if you love it! I am steeping in it now and enjoying every breath.
Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. He’s the man. He’ll take good care of you. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.
Tell them I sent you! You heard it from me.
Karin
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June 21st, 2008 — Amber, Comparing, Greens, Guerlain, Iris, Jasmine, Leather, Perfume review, Perfumes, Vanilla, Woods
I promised yesterday that I would compare these two.
I came across a site where you can compare fragrances. If you like one, what else might you like (or vice versa.) You can see it here.
When I went there, while waiting for my sample of VdNE to arrive, I was surprised to find they listed VdNE like this:
VOL DE NUIT EVASION 2007 (ATTRAPE-COEUR)
I had a bit of AC, so I wondered if I had simply bought the same thing with a new name. But checking further, the answer was no, these are two different fragrances.
However, when I wear them, comparing them, as I did yesterday afternoon and again today, there isn’t enough difference in the two of them on me to warrant having both, unless I wanted one for daytime and one for evening.
The notes for VdNE are [Fragrance Family - oriental woody] : peach, rose, jasmine, amber, iris, woods, vanilla.
The notes for AC/GA are [Fragrance Family - Floral, Amber, Musk]:
Top: a burst of spell binding green notes
Heart: generous, floral/fruity notes (rose, jasmine, peach and tuberose)
Base: leather, powdery and dry wood notes (Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla and Musk)
or: green, fruity, rose, jasmine, peach, tuberose, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, leather.
It’s only fair to say that those who love AC/GA do not, for the most part, like VdNE. I am testing vials; I am not spraying, so there is very little sillage and I have to smell up close to smell either one.
I asked all 3 of my girls to smell both fragrances on me several times. Without exception, if they smelled AC/GA (or VdNE) first, they could not smell the other one. (I had no problem.)
AC/GA is much richer and deeper. College Girl said it smelled more musky. I don’t notice that at all particularly. I notice the leather and amber in it, especially the amber. The leather is completely wearable. It is not musty. It certainly smells very good. VdNE is lighter and more powdery, though both have some powder essence to them.
I asked CG again just now which she preferred on me. I have not reapplied since this morning.
She smelled VdNE first, then AC/GA. She said she preferred VdNE, “the deeper one.” I said, “No, the other is deeper.” She said, “Then VdNE has lasted longer.” I think it is again, because she smelled the one first. To me, AC/GA is the deeper, fuller, more exotic one, and has lasted longer. But I like them both. Earlier in the day, my younger girls picked VdNE because it was “lighter.”
There you have it. It appears to be a toss up, on me. I would think a man would prefer to wear AC/GA. But hey, give both a try! As I said, I like them both, and I would love to drench myself in spray to get a feeling for when they have heavier sillage.
AC costs EUR 130 for 125 ml. VdNE (edt) is EUR 46 for 50 ml.
Where to buy it?
Call (702-732-7008) or email Claire (GuerlainPalazzo.STORE@lvmhuspc.com) at the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas. And if he’s not there, the others will treat you right too. Even better, stop in when you are in Las Vegas. You’ll see I’m right.
Tell them I sent you!
Karin
Addendum: the plot thickens! Evidently, according to French Guerlain sources, VdNE is the edt version of AC/GA edp version. Why on earth would they not keep the same name, AC/GA! No wonder they smell so similar, but one is lighter.
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May 10th, 2008 — Amber, Ayala Moriel, Books, Chypre, Comparing, Leather, Neil Morris, Neroli, Oakmoss, Oriental, Patchouli, Perfume review, Perfumes, Rose, Tauer Perfumes, Tobacco, Tom Ford, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Violet, Woods
No one ever accused me of not having expensive tastes. I was able to sample these on my recent trip, and if I had a lot of money burning a hole in my pocket, I would have bought several of them. They are not marketed exclusively for men or women, but all scents could be worn by anyone. I am reminded of the wonderful scents by Neil Morris, Andy Tauer or Ayala Moriel.
There are twelve to choose from and they look quite magnificent on the store counter. [1.7 oz is $165 and 8.3 oz is $450.] The latter is a huge bottle, hefty and dabs with the cap. I didn’t get near as much sillage this way. I preferred the spray. The 1.7 oz bottle has a nice hand to it and is meant to resemble a chess piece.
No matter what I think of Tom Ford and his ubiquitous ad campaigns for other fragrances, he certainly struck the right blend with these. Ahhhhhh…sigh…
Tobacco Vanille is my personal favorite, yummy and just right, not too sweet and not too heavy on the tobacco. It reminds me of a beloved uncle. And it definitely was good on me. It was the favorite of those around me. (As usual, I try a couple at a time on different arms. Then sample again on different days.)
Tobacco Vanille:
A modern take on an old world men’s club. A smooth oriental, Tobacco Vanille opens immediately with opulent essences of tobacco leaf and aromatic spice notes. The heart unfolds with creamy tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, and finishes with a dry fruit accord, enriched with sweet wood sap.
Black Violet was an interesting floral, not too sweet, but it became sweeter as it dried down. I quite liked the darker aspects that kept it from being a typical floral.
Black Violet
Crisp citrus surrounds a modern pulpy fruit accord, fused with black violets. Woody accents fold into oakmoss adding the universally comforting sensation of warmth.
Noir de Noir was another of my favorites. I like chypre and patchouli. But this is quite light, at least with my skin. I found over all it blended with my skin and got lost, compared to Japan Noir.
Noir de Noir A dark chypre oriental, this scent opens with an earthy mantle of richly woven saffron, black rose and black truffle, with hints of floralcy. Underneath, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood and tree moss soften the intensity, making the scent a sensual experience.
Japan Noir was another of my favorites. It had more sillage on me than Noir de Noir. An excellent choice.
Japan Noir: spices, purple patchouli, porto noir, night blooming jasmine, leather, amber, vetiver.
Tuscan Leather was sprayed on a card, by mistake, and handed to me as if it were Tobacco Vanille. All I could smell was leather! I thought, where is the tobacco?! (We realized our mistake.) Well, it isn’t in this fragrance, but if you like leather, this is a good one for you. I do like leather, but it is not my favorite note for me when it is dominant. I would like this on a man — or on a woman where the leather note is perfect for her chemistry.
Tuscan Leather: A chypre blend of notes brings a raw, yet reserved sensuality to Tuscan Leather for an original take on a classic leather scent. Saffron, raspberry and thyme, open to olibanum and night blooming jasmine. Leather, black suede and amberwood add an intricate richness.
I quite liked Oud Wood. It is lovely and soft. I believe it could be layered with other fragrances to add a woody accord. It is not heavy on rose, at least on me, and that is a good thing. [I also sampled Lancome's Mille et Rose -- and it was just a typical rose scent which got stronger on me and quite unpleasant. I have this trouble with rose scents and generally with Lancome scents, so don't let this put you off. I liked the bottle.]
Oud Wood: An exotic rose wood and cardamom, blended with exuberant Chinese pepper, envelope the wearer in warmth. Eventually, the center exposes a smokey blend of rare oud wood, sandalwood and vetiver. Finally, the creamy scents of tonka bean, vanilla and amber are revealed.
Purple Patchouli was not what I expected. I expected it to be heavy like the 60s — and heady. Instead, it was quite mild and more floral. I didn’t catch much spice or leather. Naming it Purple Pachouli gives the right idea.
Purple Patchouli: This 60’s inspired floral woody fragrance opens with an elegant orchid accord and wet, succulent citrus notes. The heart blends noir leather and a signature purple patchouli accord with exotic spices, supported by the intense depth of amber, Peru balsam and vetiver.
Amber, on the other hand is exactly what Amber is. You would have to try this on your skin, but it was rich and glorious. If you are looking for an amber, this is one to try, for sure.
Amber: A honey colored scent infused with the purest form of amber, joined by a tenacious refrain of African incense, labdanum, rich woods and a touch of vanilla bean.
Since I had already found a couple of favorites and did not want to wear out my welcome with the SA, I did not try the following. There will have to be another day.
Velvet Gardenia: I wish I’d seen how this differed from other gardenias. It sounds far more interesting.
Velvet Gardenia: A heady floral blend of ripened black gardenia and succulent orange deepens into a heart of jasmine, rose and muguet. Tuberose blends with dark plum, honey and beeswax, finishing with a smooth accord of incense and labdanum.
Bois Rouge: The notes sure sound like something I’d love.
Bois Rouge: This woody oriental opens with a blend of elegant citrus and spice. The luxurious heart reveals cedarwood, patchouli, jasmine and muguet. Sandalwood, vetiver, amber and refined leather are warmed by vanilla and tonka, adding lasting depth and texture.
Neroli Portofino: I don’t usually do well with orange blossom, but this might be different entirely, not to mention it has amber.
Neroli Portofino: A modern intercontinental version of an iconic fragrance theme, Neroli Portofino balances luminous citrus oils and floral notes with amber undertones that awaken the senses and leave a splashy yet substantive impression.
Moss Breches I think I did try this one. It is quite green, which I often love. I was on over load with the ones I liked. I’ll have to try this again first, rather than in the middle.
Moss Breches Dark and complex, this mystical chypre combines fresh wood and warm spice notes with the delicate essence of beeswax absolute. The scent intensifies with the addition of ingredients, such as Moroccan clary sage, Hungarian tarragon, Corsican rosemary and labdanum, patchouli and benzoin.
So there you have it. If you get a chance to try these, by all means do. I found them at Neiman Marcus. Perhaps they are in other places too.
Have you sampled these — or bought any of them?
Karin
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March 27th, 2008 — Amber, Bond No 9, Greens, Lily of the Valley, Perfume review, Perfumes, Woods
Union Square is a lovely fragrance. Billed as a seductive green floral and The Sweet (and Cool) Smell of Pop Art it sneaks up on you as you wear it.
I am sampling it from a vial, so I am not spritzing it.
I think the idea of sweet and cool in fragrance is today’s trend. I don’t want to call it a modern trend, because other fragrances which I would consider modern, don’t always have this dichotomy of sweet with cool. It’s as though sweet is too sweet and cool is too cool, but combining the two together, so long as they don’t cancel each other out or end up a mishmash, gives a balance that those who desire neither alone (or at least on particular days) find intriguing.
When I first wear it, it reminds me of Miss Dior Cherie
which also has a sweet and cool thing going on. Or M by Mariah Carey
.
The notes are:
Lily of the valley (in a deliciously impudent frame of mind, they write), green stem notes (uncorruptible), sweet blue freesia (having it’s 15 mins of fame); white birchwood (our very own Nature Girl); Amber (decadently mellow); Silver-Cloud Musk Accord (that’s sultry on the outside, cool and collected on the inside).
Lily of the valley and greens give it the sharp coolness. The fragrance has movement, but still the notes are distinct, yet blending. My kids like it on me. That is always a good sign.
The bottle is fuchsia, red and yellow, popping from a two-dimensional plane. I quite like it.
For those wishing to recycle their bottles, Bond No 9 or anyone else’s, they can be recycled at either SAKs or the NY Bond Boutiques. (As a way of thanking you, they will give you a refillable pocket spray with any purchase.)
There is, however, a niche for those who are bottle collectors. If bottles are kept long enough, are interesting enough, or are rare enough, empty (or not) bottles can fetch a pretty resale price.
I think Bond No 9’s concept of the same bottle, but different designs is clever packaging. I only wish they were refillable, that would be really going green. I could see a shelf full of these empty lovelies as a design theme — or still filled with fragrance if kept from light or heat.
Karin
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