I’ve heard a lot of good things about Andy Tauer fragrances, originating in Switzerland, and I was excited to finally be able to try several of them thanks to a friend at POL. I will add my reviews as I try each of them. I have added links to both his blog and his website at my link section.
Perfumes are pictures, painted with scents. Tauer Perfumes
I think for my first foray into Tauer Perfumes, L’air du désert marocain was a perfect choice. It is said to be a unisex fragrance, but it is not like any other unisex that I have tried. Tauer Perfumes says it is for ‘him or her.’ They do not call it unisex.
In general most unisex fragrances on me smell too masculine. It might be that most unisex fragrances are really neither masculine nor feminine which is why I do not like them on me. They have a certain nondesript quality to them, on me, as if one set of notes cancels out the other.
On the other hand, there are men’s versions of fragrances that I prefer on me (and maybe I just prefer them on anyone) over the women’s (Guerlain’s L’instant is one of them.) Many fragrances can be enjoyed equally by men or women if the categories of men’s or women’s are forgotten and one only goes by the scent and how it smells on oneself. I know several men who wear women’s fragrances as part of their fragrance wardrobe.
So I was intrigued to see how I would feel about this one. I find it a winner for either a man or a woman, but I would not classify it as unisex.
The scent of desire. Inspired by the fragrant world of the Maghreb desert. Powerful, sensual and pure. Tauer Perfumes
I find this scent to be wonderfully evocative. For me, it does paint a picture with fragrance. It is very paradoxical — it is both warm and dry; both sweet and non-sweet; incensy and clear; a sensual scent and an intellectual one… I am transported as I wear it.
And the wonderful thing about it is that no note cancels out any other. Each note stands distinct, yet blends with the others in a dance of joy.
I have never been to the Maghreb desert, but if it smells anything like this, I am ready to go. In one sense that is similar to Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil which evokes the area around the Nile.
I was careful my first try to take only the tiniest spritz, because I didn’t know what to expect. Not to fear, it is delicious. The dry down is sweet, but not too sweet, full of spicy incense and woods. And the journey from the beginning to the dry down is a lovely bit of travel. The opening is distinct from the drydown. It is not a fragrance that would bore one with sameness in all three stages. A little goes a long ways, and it lasted on me very well. Twelve hours later, it was still strong on my wrists.
For those who fear a cumin note, it is not negative at all.
The elegant head note is based on typical spicy scents of the Maghreb; coriander and cumin, joined with petitgrain. The warm heart note surprises with the fragrance of rock rose and a hint of jasmine. The body note is full of warm woods such as cedar wood, vetiver brilliantly joined with a fine amber background. Tauer Perfumes
Today I tried a bit more and it is every bit as good. I think of this more as a skin scent as I don’t know if I would want to apply for sillage. Let those who come close to me partake of the pleasure.
It is very sensual, but soothing. I think it is full bottle worthy. It goes for $65 for 1.7 oz at Luckyscent in the US. It is also available in NY.
Have you tried it? do you own it?
Karin
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4 comments ↓
Love this scent! Your description of it is wonderful - the scent really is full of paradoxes, and that’s part of what makes it so interesting to me.
Just found your blog via POL; I’ll bookmark it and return!
Emily, I love that his fragrances that I have tried definitely evoke memories and also take you on a journey. They are not one note or static. It makes it more interesting to wear, because I really do find differences in the stages.
[...] It is considered an oriental, but it is not like Shalimar, for instance, because it has a hot, dry feel to it. It is sweet and smokey and reminds me a lot of L’air du désert marocain by Tauer Perfumes which I reviewed earlier. I will have to do a more in depth comparison of these two on another day. [...]
[...] I compared Le Baiser Du Dragon By Cartier with L’air du désert marocain by Tauer with NEW BLACK ORCHID by TOM FORD . Notes for Le Baiser Du Dragon, introduced in 2004, a woody oriental: Amaretto, Neroli Blossom, Gardenia, Cedarwood, Iris, Bulgarian Rose, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Benzoin [...]
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